What are your opinions for someone starting out as a first layout?
Chris
I would think that would be determined in part by your skill set and tools available. Are you talking about using metal studs, or maybe a welded angle iron frame? How large will it be? What scale? Free standing, or attached to the wall? Perhaps you could give us a bit more info so we have a better chance to help. And welcome to the wonderful world of model railroading[swg]
Unless you are adept at working with steel, I would suggest using wood to start with. You could then add an expansion with steel and compare the two.
Enjoy
Paul
I myself would shy away form using steel of any kind for bench work for several reasons. I believe wood is an easier medium to work in. being metal requires more specialized tools. Shears, welding equipment if your talking heavier metals not to mention the sharp edges metal typically leaves when you cut it and when you decide you want to make a change for me wood is an easier medium to work with. That being said I have possibly every metal working tool know to man, sheet metal brakes, sheer, welders, crimping tools etc. not to mention lathe and milling machine but for bench work my material of choice is wood. That being said some do have success with using metal studs steel etc.if that works for them that fine. One thing wood does not do that metal does is conduct electricity so even though it may be a long shot there is a chance of another place for an electrical short to occur. Slim chance I will admit but a chance none the less.
To be exact 3/4" plywood has proven to be the most economical and best way to go. The problem with buying dimensional lumber in the big box stores is that you spend half a day there to just find pieces that are straight. you can get 12 4" wide x 8’ long pieces of bench work material for your bench work for a cost of less then $25.00. I use oak but thats not a given you can use lesser grade plywood if you so choose. I recently purchased two sheet and have them all ripped waiting to be assembled out in my shop. When I worked on some of it last night all the pieces were still straight as an arrow. It’s not what I started out using but from now on I’ll use nothing but.
CR&T’s new multi-level layout benchwork will be 1"x4" (outer frame) and 1"x3" (in between grid & L-girder) wood. The benchwork must also be free-standing.
The layout will also be u-shaped which indirectly adds to the “anti-tipping” stability of the multi-level benchwork.
Steel (metal) would only be part of shelving-type brackets to support the upper level box-grid – Allowing for easy (unobstructed) lower level access – Which would still be, bolted (attached securely) to the 1"x4" uprights.
And, these upper level uprights will in turn, be securely attached to the lower level’s 1"x4" base-framework. Another indirect benefit from the uprights is to attach the backdrop for the lower level – That would’ve been needed anyhow.
P.S.: Also plan ahead for lighting requirements, to avoid casting unwanted shadows, especially if lighting somehow needs attached to your benchwork.
This isn’t mine but shows how metal can be made to work quite well. In this case in conjunction with wood which isn’t really shown.
Thanks for your response. I am modeling in HO, the size will be about 17’ x 20’, as a dog bone type layout, and free standing. I purchased a PDF here about benchwork and steel / metal frame was part of bench work. I thought it was interesting to note that the author said that metal / steel framing is cheapier than wood and a less chance of the plyboard warping during the long run.
I was not sure if anyone tried to use this more of a combination steel / wood framing and they had any expertise on what not to do, or what worked best for them.
My empire is being built on a steel stud ‘C- acts like L-Girder’ frame, just about the same size as yours. Mine is attached to structural walls on two sides (narrow shelves) and spans a double-wide garage door on a narrow free-standing (almost) table, with the two end blobs of the dogbone-shaped tablework rolled inward as peninsulas.
Since the layout is located in a non-climate-controlled garage in the Dessicated Desert (Clark County, NV) forest products have a bad tendency to do terrible things - warp, twist and convert themselves into fantastic shapes, none of which are suitable for railroad construction. OTOH, steel studs retain their dimensions and will only change shape if seriously mistreated. For that reason, the only wood I use is cookie-cut thin plywood subgrade (under relatively thin extruded foam roadbed.) If it shows any tendency to deviate from the contours I desire I beat it into submission with chunks of angle iron screwed to the underside.
Tools for cutting and bending the relatively thin steel of the standard studs? Tin snips and vise grips. I measure with a yardstick or a tape, mark with a black Sharpie and square my ends with a rafter square. I also use two larger framing squares when erecting tablework. Risers are also steel, with screwing flanges bent at their tops (sometimes on several levels.) I have laid long hidden tangent tracks inside stud stock, rain gutter fashion - built in safety fences, and only need support every four feet or so.
Assembly utilizes miniature steel stud screws - driven with a power drill, they create their own holes. In classic Westcott fashion, all fasteners go either up or sideways. Those miniscrews also anchor the plywood to the bent-tin screwing flanges at the tops of the risers. I have a few bolted joints, either #8 or 1/4", at locations where my estate might need to
I recently did a 14" long test section of steel stud benchwork. My thoughts began like yours - and here they are.
I would seem that changes to track work that are forced through expansion and contraction of the substructure can be negated if the substructure itself doesn’t expand or contract. In order to do that, it must therefore not absorb or shed water. After some consideration, I’ve developed some concepts based on the following requirements.
- Must be able to support a multi-level layout.
- Must be strong
- Must be allow minimal, if any humidity absorption.
- Must be cost effective
- Must be durable
- Must be “mountable”
- Entire units need to be free standing capable (I don’t want it to be put against a wall.
Framework Substructure - Engineered Metal Studs
Engineered Metal Studs come in a variety of sizes ( Widths: 1-5/8 In., 2-1/2 In. and 3-5/8 In. Manufactured in 8 Ft., 10 Ft. lengths), and cost approximately a little more than twice that of wood (Approx. $4.75 per piece).
Pros
- Strong
- Durable
- Re-usable
- Not affected by humidity
- Light weight.
Cons
- Price
- Conductivity.
Metal stud based construction is assembled with basic tools and screwed together in a similar method as traditional wood (a different saw blade is required). Knockouts are already in place for wire conduits. Appearance can be improved with paint or other treatments. Conductivity can be negated through proper wiring insulation practices. Price may be offset by other advantages, and may not be as relevant in the overall scheme of the construction (e.g. framework substructure costs with metal equals 8% of 
total layout construction cost as opposed to 4% wood materials)
Substructures assembled into standing units of three ri
While metal studs do not shrink or expand due to humidity, what about changes in length due to temperature variations?
Alan
My garage has undergone about 100 degree temperature swings over a year, and as much as 50 degrees in 12 hours. It seems that the nickel-silver rail has a larger coefficient of expansion - rail joints that are tight at 3PM on a typical August afternoon (120 degrees plus) open up to about 1mm on a frosty January morning. I’ve been running almost daily for over 4 years on my ‘main blob,’ a 5 x 12 almost-freestanding structure, and have had no issues traceable to changes in the dimensions of the steel.
The one thing I really like about steel stud construction? Negligible waste. Cutoffs become risers, or joint reinforcement, or… Screws removed from a temporary use location go right into the next thing that needs fastening. In three years of work, the snipped-off corners and steel from cutouts have just about filled one of the boxes those miniscrews come in - and that is the only totally useless residue.
Recently (within the last week) I’ve discovered another use for really short lengths of otherwise useless cutoffs. They can be installed to form short (1 inch, give or take) sections of box girder, thereby keeping un-cabled wiring inside the dimensions of girders and joists. Look, ma, no dangling wires.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
I am COO (VP) of the Texas Western MRC. After 17 years in one location we reciently lost our home and had to dismantel our 4000 sq, ft, layout. We have a new home and are starting construction of a new layout centered around Tower 55 in Fort Worth. The layout will be built on a spine wall about 200 ft. long with two levels on both sides giving about 800 ft. of main line. We’re building the bench work entirley of cold formed steel studs and Flex-C track. We believe the steel will give us a stronger, more stable, and less expensive layout when we’re done. Come see us at twmrc.org, We will have construction photos up soon!