I poured a river about 4 in. wide and 1/2 in. deep about 3 ft. long using casting resin. I used techniques I read about in MR mag and others. Painted the empty channel with various shades of blue, added a bit of blue tempura paint to the resin, and rippled the surface as it was setting. It came out beautiful!
Now to my problem… About a month later, I noticed bits of stray ballast sticking to the surface. They seemed to be imbedded partially into the resin, even though it felt hard and dry. Now, months later, it seems like every stray bit of stray ballast, ground cover, or just plain dirt is migrating to the resin. I can’t wipe it off, even using alcohol. I can smooth it with an abrasive pad, but that leaves streaks & dull spots.
Anybody have any suggestions? Did I do something wrong? Do I have to blast it out and start over with something from Scenic Express?
I used a two-part resin from Swing Paints called Nu-Lustre 55. The instructions went to great pains to make doubly sure that the user understood how important it was to do two things: measure each volume precisely, and then to mix them thoroughly. In fact, we were to mix for two minutes, decant it all into a second clean container, and then mix for another two minutes.
Both times I used it the results were excellent…rock hard and no bubbles. So, if your product is still tacky, or the slightest fluid after many weeks, you did something wrong, probably with the measuring.
You could try an overcoat, but try hard to be meticulous with the process as they describe it. At least the overcoat may be hard. You can chip out the grit beforehand, and the new layer will cover those pits nicely, I should think.
I used a casting resin from Michael’s crafts. I followed the directions exactly, and when it was finished it was “hard as a rock and no bubbles”. It did not then, nor does it now, feel at all “tacky”. It feels hard as glass. Nevertheless, I am going to try some kind of overcoating, maybe clear acrylic laquer? I would be grateful for any suggestions.
First, the pour was too deep. Build up in 1/8" [maximum] layers and let dry before continuing. The MR article stressed this, too, as well as the directions – at least with Environtex Lite. The problem of sticky resin is usually the result of mixing too little hardener into the resin and/or not stirring sufficiently. Now, to fix it, give it time to dry completely – several weeks for a 1/2" pour. Then mix more with the correct proportion [measure carefully] and pour a thin coat – just enough to cover – and let it dry. If that doesn’t solve the problem, you may have to resort to some other material for a surface treatment.
I would suggest either a topcoat of Mod Podge Matte Medium or a similar product, or else find another two-part cover epoxy, which is what I used. I also missed the 1/2" deep part in your intro, and would agree that if you did it all in one pour, it usually leads to less than satisfactory results. I would have taken perhaps four pours to achieve that depth, at least three.
The quick and easy would be matte medium, and you can stain it with acrylic paint washes to get the illusion of murky water if what you have in place now is still needing something more.
Otherwise, a top layer of epoxy, or something that will be hard and clear when dry, like the urethane, should have you smiling.
I’ve used Envirotex Lite ALOT with no problems. I pour part 1 into a mixing container and then mark the bottle. Pour a little less part 2 into the mixing container and compare to the part one bottle. Add what you need to make the amount left in both bottles the same.Mix EXTREMELY well.
I’ve found that first trying to pour the same amounts into a measuring cup and then the mixing container lacking. Whatever you pour first will stick to the container,it won’t be empty for the next measurement.
I agree with others that you might have did something wrong, starting with the pour thickness.I use EL alot in my profession for bartops, etc.Never more than1/8" and sometimes I’ve brushed it on.
I’ve used up 4 boxes of EL on the MRR and not had even one bad pour using this method.
I do custom resin casting. If the material is thicker than water, I recommend that once you get the two components into the same cup for mixing, mix for a short time and then pour it into a clean cup, then continue mixing for the recommended time. If you don’t do this, you take a chance when you pour, that some of the un-mixed material in the crevices of the cup will come out as well, and mess up the final mix.