I bought some Micro Enginnering “Pre-Weathered” code 83 flex track last year. Just getting to laying track in my new layout section this week, the track is very hard to flex around curves. It seems the ties are not sliding along rails easily when bending the track and are even hanging up in spots which is not allowing a nice even curvature but is causing kinks…
Has anyone had this problem with ME Flex and found a solution as it will be very difficult to lay around curves as it is very stiff. I don’t know if the paint for the pre-weathered rails is causing the ties to hang up but there must be a way to soften this up…Thanks…
To answer your question about whether this has been a problem, those who use that brand report that they encounter the same thing, and have had to learn how to fashion decent curves. It is not like Atlas flextrack. So, the ME track is consistent, and it takes getting used to.
Years ago, all flex track was like that. When I unpacked my old track to start my current layout, I had some code 100 nickel silver flex on fiber ties (guess how old THAT is). It’s such a pain to curve that I decided to use it a 3 foot straights.
To put a curve in the old style flex track, you had to work from the center of the piece and work the curve in a little at a time. Have a curve laid out on your roadbed and use this as a template to get the curvature right.
It is the pre-weathering formula. Don Z on this forum has been using and I hear him [soapbox] a lot about it. I’ve heard the non-weathered ME is more like the Atlas as far as flexibility.
The ME pre-weathered flex track does take some work to form into curves, but if you take your time, start at one end and flex it just a tiny bit down the length of the piece, then go back to the end and shape it little by little, it will take the shape of the curve you’re trying to form.
It is stiff but once shaped, it will hold the shape and will produce fine looking curves for you. The curves in this picture are all ME weathered Code 83 track.
I love ME track, but not the weathered stuff. I’ve used the weathered track, and it takes a lot of care to flex it. You have to start at one end and work your way down to the other end, bending just a little at a time (and then repeat) until you get it into the curve you want.
Watch out for skewed ties, because those will constrict the gauge and cause you problems later.
I’ve also found that it’s best to bend the track into place, and then let it sit for a week in place without fastening it down, since it might spring back some on you at the joints, causing kinks. Also, work with double length sections on curves, with the joints soldered between the two pieces to minimize kinks.
One of my favorite aspects of ME track is that it holds its shape when you bend it – very handy for quickly test fitting alternative track routings and studying them for a few days.
Best of all, IMO, is don’t use the weathered ME track if you don’t have to, or use the weathered sections on straight track, and used non-weathered on curves.
Joe, glad you gave that tip on weathered ME track. I have some of each ME track, and haven’t started laying track yet, but real soon will be. The timing good not have been better. I will be sure to use the weathered ME on the straight runs, and save the non-weathered for the curves!! Thanks you sir.
ALL FLEXIBLE TRACK that has tighter tolerances will be more difficult to bend.
One starts at the center and working your way outward, applying THUMB preessure until one has their curve. BENEFITS are a a more exact curve.
Downside with MICRO-ENGINEERING weathered track is necessity to file off insulated wathering, anywhwhere electrical contact will be needed - rail tops + ends where Rail joiners will pass on voltage - (and where feeder wires carrying voltage attach).
Benefit is very realistic looking track when a brite boy scrubs the rail tops.
ALTERNATIVE is to use non-weathered track, or Atlas code 83 which is .100 high, looser tolerances, and bends easier - appealing to beginners.
I’ll respectfully disagree with you on your statement about the weathered track. I have had no problems soldering sections together without removing the weathering color, nor have I had any problems running locomotives on track where the railheads are still weathered. I do remove the weathering from the railhead to match the prototype; a busy track is shiny on top…
Don Z- Yea, I was under the impression that the rail weathering was a chemical process that conducted electricity and was solderable. Doesn’t ME sell that stuff by the bottle to do it yourself? I’ve been looking for it to do my metal wheels. It’s a brownish color right?
Actually, the only flex-track I’ve ever used that is ‘loose’ is Atlas. I haven’t used ME, but I’ve used Sinohara quite extensively on the Yuba River Sub, and like what I’ve read about the ME, it’s the same thing. You have to start the curve in the middle and work out–GENTLY–from both directions. The nice thing about Sinohara (and I presume ME) is that once curved, it will stay pretty much in place.
I like Joe Fugates idea of letting the track ‘season’ before you attach it permanently, however. I should have done that on one stretch, and right now I’m going to have to go in and re-adjust it (ballast and all–YECH!).
One word of caution, however–if you are going to use any ‘bridge’ track on a curve, be VERY careful, or the inner guard rails will pop right out. I learned this the hard way. If you have any curved bridges or trestles, just lay it with regular track, then come back and CA the guard rails in. It takes a little longer, but at least you won’t have your ME track flying all over the place.
