Parddon mi tiping, Im havin to do ti witd one hand cause teh left one is glued ti the ke board. Im putin togteher mi lumeber yard an Ive got glue on everithing excpcet were it belnogs. Shirley thier is a beter way! Doan they mkake a needil or somthin to get tihs stuff in the rihgt spot insted of on yur fingers and elybrows?
Whut r some of the trciks to this, pleze.
Jarerel
YOU ARE SIMPLY TOO MUCH!
Does your wife claim you? [:D]
…only as a tax exemption.
Stick with it, Jarrell. You’ll get it eventually…[:)]
Tom
There is a better way. And stop calling me Shirley. (quick what movie is that from?)
Airport?
Now that I’ve got my fingers unstuck maybe I can get this question out. Isn’t there a better way to get the glue down in those tiny little places, and control the amount also? Maybe a hypodermic needle or something? I used a toothpick and it did ~ok~ I guess. But, I forgot and now the toothpick is stuck between my teeth.
Any suggestions and tips appreciated!
Jarrell
Airplane! Leslie Nielson in the cockpit of the plane. lol Love that movie!
I picked a bad day to stop drinking…
Roger, Roger.
Over, Oveur.
I AM serious. And DON’Y call me Shirley.
CLASSIC movie!
I solved the problem of sticking my fingers to the keyboard by moving my model building to other than my computer desk. Now I only get stuck to my modellign tools.
–Randy
Jarrell: try an old small paint brush if you have to trim some off it,and keep an old catfood can filled with actone to keep it clean[:P]
I love this forum!!!
Jarrell, although I can’t recall the brand name, there are some super glues that have a very fine metal applicator that would allow a very small application of glue to what ever it is you are trying to glue together.
You must be using super glue – the only thing I have ever managed to stick with that stuff is my fingers. [:p]
I have a dog, but maybe that will work.
Thanks oleirish!
Jarrell
QUOTE: Originally posted by cacole
You must be using super glue – the only thing I have ever managed to stick with that stuff is my fingers. [:p]
uh oh… it does say Super Glue for Hobbies so I thought it would work ok. I think I’ve got a bottle of Testors around here someplace.
Jarrell
I think the model car and airplane guys have had to deal with this sticky stuff. Go to the LHS and ask them. Oh, wait, where’s the fun in that, no trial and error and so on…
I found the Testors Model Cement. It has a nice little long tapered snout -like thingy that puts the stuff in little cracks. Now if it’ll just hold I’ll be a happy happy boy.
If it doesn’t I can always put Scotch tape on the outsides.
Jarrell
I thought for a second that maybe you’d also rubbed one of your eyes before typing that first post! [:O] [:D]
My LHS sold me that fancy CA for hobbies with the pry-back lid like a dunce cap, and the little plastic pipe or tube for fine application. He said it was great for binding the bents and stays for a trestle. BS! That exercise in frustration made me swear off the stuff for ever.
Super Glue isn’t really the thing for plastics. The Testors Model Cement is kid stuff–get the liquid cement and apply it with a cheap paintbrush (not one with plastic bristles or handle, or it’ll melt!!) Super glue is better for gluing metal or little bits of wood.
QUOTE: Originally posted by pcarrell
I think the model car and airplane guys have had to deal with this sticky stuff. Go to the LHS and ask them. Oh, wait, where’s the fun in that, no trial and error and so on…
s’ok, the model airplane guy is already here [:D]
Anyway, the previous post is right. Don’t putz around with the Testor’s cement, it just isn’t any good. Pick up some good modeling cyanoacrylate (CA) glue, such as the stuff Tower sells cheap:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPT38&P=ML
You can apply it with the bottle, or with a small brush.
For using ONLY ONE DROP of glue at a time, which you need to do pretty frequently, try this. Take a relatively large sewing needle and nip the eye in half so it is shaped like a U. You can use that to “pick up” one drop of glue at a time, and place it accurately.
Here’s my crude drawing and doggerel poem to match:
If you only use one type of CA, go with the medium. It’s pretty much “all purpose,” and it dries fast enough that kicker isn’t really necessary.
Ray out.
For most kinds of plastic I use Tenax 7R when I need a fast joint, and Testor’s liquid when I want a little more working time. There is a very nice applicator that Micro-Mark sells that I’ve been meaning to get, for now I use fine paintbrushes and I also have some small glue applicators that are like paintbrushes. Whatever plastic those are made out of isn’t affected by the Tenax.
–Randy
Ok, so I’m back to the hobby shop again tomorrow to look for the Right Stuff… a medium CA maybe. I’ll look for a fine, small paintbrush. I’ll also cut the eye of a needle so it looks like a U and then I can apply just one drop of glue.
Thanks for the help!
Jarrell
Jarrell,
Pour a small amount of the glue in a pool in a jar lid or other container. Dip a piece of piano wire in the pool. You will have a small amount of CA on the end which can be applied to the joint or parts in question. I use this for plastic glue as well and use a wire to apply it or simply dip small parts in the glue and then apply. As the glue dries out, make another pool nearby. I have built tons of models using this technique with very few glue related accidents or marring of surfaces…
All the built in applicators I have tried get clogged with glue and offer the possibility of delivering more glue than you want to the model (did I tell you about the time I glued the boxcar to my arm???)