So there it sits in the box downstairs calling my name… Mike… it’s DCC hook me up… don’t be afraid!!!
Well never got around to getting the wire… but want to know is this what I need:
keep thinking that the wire is going to cost me…
what is the average price for 50ft
thanks
Mike
Might be a bit light, if you plan to run more than maybe 3-4 engines at a time. If you need 50 feet, then I’m guessing you have a fair size layout, it might be better to use the 22 gauge for feeders (maybe 12" long each), hooked to 14-16 gauge bus wire. What amp rating is your DCC unit? If it’s only rated for 3 amps, then the 22 gauge should be ok. If you’re DCC is for 10 amps, then you’ll need at least 16 gauge for sure, a 10 amp load will melt through that 24 gauge for sure. A 5 amp load should be ok on 20 or 22 gauge. Keep in mind that just because a DCC system is rated for a certain amperage, doesn’t mean that you will automatically be using that amperage whenever the system is on, you will only use whatever amperage the trains need.
For example, let’s say you have 4 engines, each draw 1/2 an amp. If you have all 4 going at once on a system rated for 10 amps, you’re only going to be using 2 amps of power. Modern models (well, the higher quality ones) don’t need that much power, unless they have sound.
For 16 gauge wire, you could buy or find an old extension cord (one of the orange outdoor cords), and remove the outer orange covering and use the wires inside. These are usually 14 or 16 gauge. If using an old cord, just make sure the wires inside are OK.
Brad
I have the NCE Power Cab, 2 amp system
Layout is about 17 X 23 figure can run 1 -2 trains on the inside loop and 2 trains on the outside loop… plan on expanding on the Power cab
what would be the better plan…?
I HIGHLY recommend using the heavier wire now, then later, if and when you need to expand, you have MUCH less work to do. You can get by with the 22 gauge for now on a 2 amp system, but for a wire run of more than about 20 feet, it’s possible you could experience a voltage drop.
If you put in the heavier wire now, later when you upgrade, you’ll be very much glad you did. I plan on using 14 gauge solid core wire with 20-22 gauge feeders every 6’ or so (every other flex track joint soldered), should make for “bulletproof” wiring.
I suppose you could use the 22 gauge wire now, but have it so you can install the heavier wire later. At least you would have the feeders installed, just cut to length and connect to the bus later.
Brad
You really should look elsewhere than Radio $hack for your wiring needs. There are lots of places on-line (try www.allelectronics.com or www.demarelectronics.com or www.oceanstateelectronics.com for some price comparisons) or you might find a lot of what you need at Home Depot or even Wal-Mart. When ordering on-line, think ahead and order other stuff that you’ll want in the future - SPDT toggle switches for your turnouts, LEDs for headlights, 1K resistors for your LEDs and so on. This will end up costing you less in shipping charges.
Is there a Menards store in your area?
I found Menards sells 50 and 100 foot rolls of wire in different gauges, and is less expensive than Home Depot or Lowes.
Ed
GrandFunRailroad,
Forget that first spool of Radio Shack Bus Wire… that is used in electronic innards. It is TOO small for DCC use.
You need #14 or #12 solid or stranded wire for your Bus. I recommend stranded which can be obtained at most hardware stores, Lowes or Home Depot.
For connecting your track to the Buss use #18 or #20 stranded.
You can use what is referred to as “suit case” connectors or Posi-Taps that are available at Wal-Mart. The Posi-Taps seem expensive but they are readily reusable and allow up to 4 track connection wires. You can add all four connectors at once or one at a time as needed later in construction or expansion.
Because one Posi-Tap will replace as many as 4 suitcase connectors they are quite cost effective.
I recommend using stranded wire for all connections as it is less likely to break when handled.
I use speaker wire that is available at practically any of the big box stores and can be purchased in 50 or 100 foot lengths.
+1 for the speaker wire.
Its cheap, readily available and already comes as a dual-conductor strand which makes the wiring neater. I used 16 guage for the bus and 20 guage for the feeders.