I’m still a bit unsure how to go about the right way to connect two sections of Atlas Flextrack on a curve. I’m trying to avoid have a butt joint thereby hopefully not getting a kink in the joints. In the first picture below you can see the track coming up the incline and the first connection at the bottom of the photo is no problem as the track is just coming off a turnout. Click on photo to enlarge.
It’s the next track connection up the ramp that is in question. What is the best way to do this? Do I have to remove three of the ties on track section 1 (on the right), and two ties of track section 2
or do I not remove the ties from track 1 but cut away the small plastic pieces that hold the track so that I can slip a railjoiner in place, then slide the rail from rail section 2 into that joiner?
Thanks for any help!
Jarrell
Jarell, in the second photo, slide your inside (sliding rail) on the piece you are about to add on, outward on the other end, thus letting your pictured join meet, but with the inside sliding rail staggered forward. In other words, the placed rail, the one on the right, has a protruding sliding rail. Fit it into the tie clips that the sliding rails slide through, but on the new rail. This way, the tie plates hold the sliding rails together, and only the weaker, outer, rail is held with the joiners. With the staggered join, you have a stronger one.
-Crandell
PS- like this: ---------------- -------------------
I would remove 3 ties on track 1 and 1 tie on track 2. Then you will need to cut the long rail on track 2 so that it is even with the short rail on track 2. The easiest way to do this is with a Xuron track cutter.
Good Luck
What you want to do is take up the pin that is at the end of track section #1. Then in the striaghtened end. Cut both rails even. and removed at least one tie length worth of tie strip from the end of the rail. If your worried about tie melting go with two ties. On Track section #2 remove one or two ties from the end. Install rail joiners and solder sections 1 and two together. Then continue laying track around the curve. At the end of track section #2. Repeat process for joining sections 2 and 3 and 3 and 4 and so on and so forth.
James
Jarrell, if this were me, I would remove and save 3 ties from each piece. I would then unpin the section that is already installed and let about 1’4 of the turn straighten out. Then I would install rail joiners and solder the 2 pieces of track together. Then you can curve the track, repinning it and continue around the curve. Never try and join the pieces of flex track when they are curved, it is almost impossible to get a smooth curve that way.
I’m with Simon on this one I always join flex when it’s straight.
Ken.
I think I like Simon’s way also, not that the other ways are bad. I think what I’ll do is completely remove both sections to the work bench, take off 3 ties on each, solder them together and place the then 6 foot section back on the layout. I can do it this way because I’m just getting started laying it, these are the first two pieces so they’re easy to remove.
Before I replace them though shouldn’t I put down a thin layer of clear silicone or other adhesive to hold them in place? What do you guys like to use?
Thanks for all the replies, I appreciate it!
Jarrell
Use silicone or latex caulk, but use nails at the same time. The nails can be withdrawn later, when the caulk is dry.
As for the first question, I neglected to address the matter of the ties. Yes, you won’t get joiners past the first tie, so you must cut them off, but also the joining black plastic strip behind each one that joins the ties to the next pair.
You could join the rails as I had suggested with the first placed rail already curved, as long as you can get its sliding rail into the next piece, which you can easily do if you match the curve. I agree that it is easier to join them when they are straight, but felt that you had already placed the one, so…
I would make your curved go as far as possible, cut it straight, remove a couple of ties on the end, (you will add ties layer, original or maybe real wood ties)
then cut back your straight a ways and add another flex piece, cut to suit.
I would go with Cradell’s (aka selector) first post.
Assuming the sliddy rail is on the inside…
- Trim two ties from from track section two so that the outside rail meets the outside rail on section 1.
- Cut a knotch in the existing ties for the rail joiner and connect.
- On track section #1 remove the existing rail joiner and slide that into section #2 pulling its inside rail back.
- Cut a grove for the rail joiner under this joint where ever it ends up.
- Put the adhesive under the track and position.
- Make certain the curve is smooth and solder both joints.
This keeps some real ties under the offset joint. If done right only 4 “spikes” (two from each rail) have to be cut away. You can see in the picture below I slightly goofed and removed three “spikes” from the outside rail. Also notice the TINY amount of solder.
As usual click the picture to enlarge
P.S. Soldering before the curve is made can make flat spots and dual kinks in the track instead of a nice smooth curve.
Jarell, I used liquid nails for this as I like the consistency for getting a very thin layer, caulk is fine as well. Just spread a fine bead good and thin, you don’t want it oozing up between the ties. Then pin and or weight the track to hold it in place while it dries. A small tip that will help later. Note or even mark where the gaps are where the ties are missing and avoid getting caulk on these bits of the cork. It will make it much easier to get the spare ties slid back under later.
Jarrell,
Enough opinions yet? I like the latex caulk… cheapest off-brand Home Depot sells. It holds great, works fast, and allows you to remove track later (with some effort, but cleanly) if needed. I also prefer soldering flex when its straight, joining track so that joints are not straight across from each other, then curving after it’s soldered.
On an unrelated note. I would also suggest taking a surform or file to the top edges of your cork roadbed before permanently affixing the track to remove that little ridge that comes on the cork… makes for a much nicer looking roadbed.
FWIW, I tore apart my year-old layout yesterday, and the caulk that I used, PL300, was still malleable, if very stiff. I used a small hatchet on the hardiest gobs, and all it took was laying the blade against the gobs and doing a planing action. Three strokes and it was all up. The foam broke away from the caulk most often, about 80% of the time, I’d say.
Yes… sorry about that Crandell. I didn’t mention at first that the first section could be removed. Since this is over foam I guess I can sub pins for nails to hold it in place. I remember one guy here said that he raided the pantry for canned food, that it fit the tracks perfectly for weights.
Thanks for your suggestions and help.
Jarrell
I had to keep looking. At first I could only see one ‘spike’ missing but if you look closer you see it. Heck, I hope I get mine nearly that good!
Thanks for the help.
Oh… on my photo the sliding rail is on the outside of the curve , i.e. the bottom rail in the closeup photo.
Jarrell
Jack, the more opinions the better. One thing I’ve learned in the year I’ve been in mrring is that there is usually several ways to do the same thing. You just have to figure which one you might could do best.
File the ridges? You mean the two ridges on the outer edges of the roadbed, right? I knew I had to do some light sanding on the top (flat) portion of the roadbed where I’ve found a couple of ‘rough’ spots. Doing the edges would make the shoulder slope a little more naturally.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Jarrell
I saw your thread about having to do that. For some reason I get the feeling you didn’t hate to do it that much, that maybe you’re wanting to start over. I dunno though, it has to be a little rough to tear up something you’ve worked on so much.
Jarrell
I felt elated in a guarded way, but also dejected because I had been working hard on improving it for a full week. It was coming along nicely, especially a reverse loop that would have allowed me to stop handling locos. I had custom made the creosoted wooden trestle for that loop…
The good knews is that I can now build a passable trestle in one evening. Beat that, Karl! An’ I got creosote, to boot.
Thanks for commiserating, JaRRell.
Wanting to start over is one thing. Being forced to is quite another. My parents tore down my layout while I was in college. That was 3 years ago and I am still upset over that. And now Im being forced to sell my train collection to satisfy my creditors. (NEVER GO INTO DEBT TO GO TO COLLEGE!) I don’t even want to think about how much that is going to hurt.
James
try to solder a few flex together then bend the curve
jm2c