I have an old Tenshodo GP20 that needs a total repaint. I’ve got all the fresh paint and decals I need, but first I have to get the old paint off (and that paint is thick!) What’s the best (cheap) way to do this?
Paint stripper-I just had to do the same on Friday for an old Westside Models 44 tonner.I just applied it and placed the shell in a old shopping bag.The top layer of paint came right off.A second application of stripper was needed to remove the factory applied brass paint-That was a pain.
Darth:
I’m facing the same thing with a newly acquired consignment Key Rio Grande 3400 series 2-8-8-2, only instead of factory-applied paint, it’s VERY thick gloss paint.
Here’s what I’ve got in front of me: It looks as if the model was spray-painted from about 3 inches away with some kind of Krylon house paint, LOL!
I’m going to have to strip it down to raw brass. Don’t use an acidic-based stripper, as it could attack the solder joints. I’ve used the Jasco paint stripper before on brass (it’s designed for wood furniture refinishing) and it’s worked well for me. Usually about one or two applications take the paint off very well, and using a toothbrush or a toothpick, gets rid of the paint that gets stuck in the details.
Spread it on with a 1" housepaint brush (that you never plan on using again, BTW) in ONLY one direction, let it start bubbling (usually after about 15 minutes) then gently scrape the paint off with an X-acto knife blade or a wire brush.
Looks like both you and I have a PROJECT in front of us, by golly. [:P]
Tom [:)]
I’ve had good luck striping factory painted brass by soaking it in a bath of laquer thinner. Of coarse this stuff will melt plastic, so make sure any plastic parts from the drive have been removed. Like Tom said, stay away from acid based strippers. I ended up with a brass steam engine kit with that stuff once[B)]. If there have been repairs made to your model with glue or epoxy, expect those parts to fall off during the striping.
John.
Thanks for the suggestions everyone. I might try the lacquer thinner idea first, since I work about 2 minutes away from the local Farm & Fleet (they have large cans of lacquer thinner). If that fails, then I’ll try another suggestion.
Thanks again![:D]
I tend to shy away from chemical strippers as if any is left behind even the most minute particle it can destroy a paint job. It seems no matter how well I rinse it there is always some little place it can hide. Lacquer thinner on the other hands works well but it’s just slower in some cases but any residual thinner will evaporate almost instantly. I now a painter who does work for the LHS who uses Alcohol to clean his models before painting. I like to use Prepsol or a tack cloth.
You can use the new DOT 3 brake fluid also and Pinesol works also just do it in moderation on plastic with the pinesol .Dot 3 brake fluid is for the newer cars with plastic parts in the systemI just fill a qt jar and soak the model in it turning it every few hrs.
Ok, I just picked up a can of lacquer thinner for the stripping. Should I fill a pan or something like a coffee can to a couple inches deep and soak the whole thing? If so, how long should I leave it in?
I use an old glass bread baking pan for most of my stripping, but any metal or glass container large enough to fit the shell, but no so large that the laquer thinner won’t submerge the shell, will work. For the best results you want everything to be completely submerged in the thinner. I’d let it soak for an hour or so and then take an old tooth brush to it to see if the paint in softening yet. It might take an hour, or it may take 24 hours. It’s going to take a little elbow grease with an old tooth brush to get the paint out of the cracks and crevasses.
Again be sure no plastic is being exposed to the thinner.
Well, the GP20’s now soaking in the lacquer thinner. I used a metal turkey baster to put the stuff in the pan (to avoid spills), and the paint is just lifting right off!! I’m going to go back in about 10 minutes to finish the job, and I’ll let you all know how it went.[:D] The stuff smells exactly like Testors plastic glue gel (the kind in a red tube). Weird.
The paint’s all stripped off now, and I learned a couple lessons in the process.
- Lacquer thinner eats right through nitrile gloves.
- Lacquer thinner fumes dissolve plastic lids.
The GP20 is now fairly clean brass with some tarnish around it. I’ll post pictures real soon.
And here it is![:D]
Before:
Decent paint job with some chipping, cruddy handrails.
After:
It’s all ready for repainting now.[:D] I’ve also made most of the new handrails for it with brass wire and Smokey Valley stanchions, which look a whole lot better than the stock handrails!
Originally, the ventilation around the sides wasn’t see through. I found that Tenshodo had used great looking brass mesh, and then covered it with big pieces of brass sheet. I took out the sheet, resoldered the mesh to the body, and it looks great![:D] I really don’t know why they didn’t do this in the first place.
I’m glad it worked for you. If you plan on repainting the model then you don’t really need to worry about the tarnish. Just wash it really well and paint it. If your plan is to keep it brass, you can use a tarnish remover like the kind made for copper and brass pots and pans. I like to use a paste product called Twinkle available at my local grocery store to remove the tarnish off my scratchbuild models when taking progress pics. Just use it in conjuntion with an old tooth brush and it really bring the shine back to the brass. A clear coat will keep it from tarnishing agian.
John.