A lot of suggestions have been written up regarding the best way to remove paint and lettering from factory-painted KATO locomotives. I would like to hear results of actual experiences before causing any damage to my fleet of SD45’s.
I have stripped paint from several loco-shells(Athern, not Kato) with brake fluid. I left the shells in a vessel filled with brake fluid over night. The paint then looks like a peeled skin can be wiped off. If there are several layers of paint, you probably have to repeat the process. In recessed areas you have to remove the paint with toothsticks or with a brush. Finally wa***he shell with water and soap.
Please keep in mind, that brake fluid is poisonous and agressive to Your skin and to paintet areas. So protect yourself and keep children away.
Possibly there are less harmfull ways for stripping paint, but for me this process is cheap and works quite well.
I use Pine Sol on a Qtip to gently remove the letters and numbers from the shell. I don’t concern myself with removing all the paint. As long as all the letter and numbers are gone so they won’t show through the new paint. I apply a coat of primer over the existing paint and then apply my paint.
I have used a product called “Cameleon” to strip lots of different brands including Kato,Bachmann, Athearn, and Atlas. It works very well, and you don’t have to worry about how long you leave it in the stripper. It doesn’t seem to make the plastic
soft or brittle. I used it to recently strip a Kato NW-2, and liked the results.
I also have a MicroMark product called ELO that I think would work just as well.
I used Pine-Sol on some models, but you have to be very careful about how long it is left to soak, or else the plastic starts to soften, and when you go to scrub the paint off (I use an old toothbrush) it will marr the plastic, and can leave it fuzzy.
Brian
Be very careful about using ELO on a Kato body, I have found that the plastic gets very brittle. In fact I have an N scale U30c that is now a five piece body, the plastic didn’t distort or soften, just split into several pieces. Kato paint is very thin, just remove the lettering and you should find that you will get a satisfactory finish.
The lettering can be removed with ELO or Methylated Spirits (denatured alcohol), but again, use caution.
Brian, where can I find “Cameleon”? It sounds like a good way to go.
Dave.
I don’t strip the paint off, I just remove the lettering and numbers with a little acetone (Be careful, if you leave it on for too long and try to wipe it off, the shell will be damaged.)
Works fine for my SD40-2s.
Trainboy
My advice would be to skip pine sol and ELO…if you leave the shell sitting in it too long, it will warp/weaken/crack the plastic. 91% isoprol rubbing alcohol works if you soak the unit over night (a tupperware container works well for this) and start scrubbing. It does take some elbow grease, but it does work. I’ve also found that a weapons cleaning AP brush works much better than a toothbrush. (an AP brush looks like a toothbrush only the bristles are alot stiffer…most gun stores and army surplus stores have these). Wooden toothpicks do well to get into step wells etc.
Hope this helps!
Kelley.
www.dufordmodelworks.com
DO NOT do this with a Kato shell, unless you want a glob of plastic. This is the exact reason why there are so many RPP SD45 shells running around on Kato SD40 chassis. The brake fluid has minimal effect on Kato’s paint, but dissolves the plastic right out from underneath the paint.
91% isopropyl works on some Kato, not all. PineSol, straight up no water, works on some other Kato, and was at one time recommended by Kato as the only chemical stripper they were aware of, that is somewhat safe.
Any chemical stripper will damage the plastic used by Kato, some may also remove the paint.
Consider blasting with baking soda. See http://www.hosam.com/
where do i find camelon? Can anyone post instructions on how to do the pine sol method?
thanks
<>Pine Sol worked for me. It did take a long soak though… about 12 hours. The darker the paint, the longer the soak. Stinks too. Wash the shell off very well with Joy soap when finished.
<>I think the next time I try it, I will do what Berge suggests and leave the paint on. I was worried about build up but with a good airbrush, I don’t see build up as much of an issue.
BTW, I tried this on an CSX AC 4400 CW Kato N scale loco.
Peter
I’ve used Chameleon with great sucess on Athearn and MDC shells. I get mine from the LHS, but Walthers carries it too. I like the gel formula Walthers #359-10, 11, or 12 depending on the size bottle.
Nick
I have many PRR SD40 and SD45 locomotives painted in the brunswick green scheme. I use 3m automotive scratch remover and a Q-Tip to gently rub the cab numbers off leaving a highly polished surface to place decals with different cab numbers. This is a bit technique sensitive, but it saves from a total repaint. Afterwards a coating of Testor’s Dullcote blends everything together for a good looking model. Don’t forget the number boards, it’s the details that make the difference. Good Luck