I wonder if it’s hard to strip paint off a Proto 2000 GP30?
I have tried to get a undecorated unit but they seems hard to find. So I think I will buy a painted unit instead and strip it, add details from Details West, paint it in D&RGW colors and add decals.
I also wonder if it’s hard to take away the handrails and things like that?
How do I know it’s a GP30 without the ‘cracked grear’ problem?
Does all GP30 look the same on the shell and truck? The reason I ask is because I want it to be correct for D&RGW.
I can’t answer your paint stripping questions, but I might offer another solution for you. You say you can’t find undecorated GP-30 shells? I saw some undecorated GP-30 shells on the A-Line website. They are made by Lionel (HO scale), but I’m not sure how much modification is needed to be able to mount these on P2K mechanisms, but the price is right (at least to me it is). There are also some pictures of decorated models on the page of D&RGW, SP, and GN. Here is the link: http://www.ppw-aline.com/bdligp30.htm.
The cracked gears usually only show up when running the engine. Walthers has replacement gear-bearings-wheels assemblies if you ask for them.
The paint seems pretty thin. Maybe just spray the black over what is already there? There were two different size fuel tanks offered, the frame is the same. The plastic tanks are held on by tape. Some GP30s came with ALCo trucks. You don’t want that for a DRGW model.
The A-line-Lionel-Bachman shells are not nearly as nice as the P2K shell. The original Spectrum drives left much to be desired. I repowered mine with Athearn BB GP35 frames. Here is a shot of Spectrum and P2K back to back.
I highly doubt that the P2K drive will fit without cutting a good deal of the weights.
That is correct. ALCo trucks (as shown on the orange one) were used on Soo, MILW, GM&O GP30s, maybe others. The rest (black one) got EMD Blomberg trucks. The P2K ALCo trucks have the proper 9’-4" wheelbase. EMD trucks are 9’ even. Sideframes will not interchange. Are factory painted DRGW GP30s unavailable, or would you rather roll your own?
I can get D&RGW GP30’s factory painted, but no sound. In fact, there was two of them on eBay a couple of days ago. But I think it will be a lot more fun to learn how to paint and decal myself. I also want to add the Details West package. There is a QSI sound system in some GP30’s. I will use one of these for my D&RGW project. If everything is working ok, I will paint several of them and add small and large lettering.
I have successfully stripped the paint off my P2K GP30. I used 91% isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol). It does a very good job and won’t hurt the plastic at all. Hope this helps.
If you airbrush those slippery handrails with ModelFlex paint ( or any brand made for those R/C control cars ) it stays put very well. I’ve literally tied them in a knot with no signs of the paint flaking off.
Bulldog Adhesion Promoter ( the stuff used for painting those flexible automotive parts like rubber bumpers ) will also aid in the adhesion. I’ve even tried mixing it in with regular paint with reasonable success. There is an additive than can be added to paint to increase its flexibility that is available through auto-motive paint suppliers.
All of these options DO work, but - they MUST be airbrushed to get the maximum benefit. Any brush painting will create too thick a coating and subsequent flaking.
Good to read the A-Line website on the Lionel GP-30 shells. Are handrails included. On would look great in Chinese Red CB&Q scheme! Any problems fitting on Athearn frames?
I’ve used Scalecoat II paint stripper for my engines and it seems to work fine. I used two bottles worth and submurge my shell under for about an hour or two. Then under warm water using a tooth brush I scrub off the paint. My experience has been that not all of the paint will come off so I throw it back under for a second soak. That generally does the trick.
I make sure that I remove all of the details very carefully and keep them in a zip-tight plastic bag. That way I don’t lose anything. After I have painted I apply the details right back on and then paint them to match. It works for me.
Here is the last one that I built (actually it the first one that I’ve done, my others were just practice).
NAPA has a clear spray can primer for flexible auto parts, their part #7223, it may have to be ordered from their nearest warehouse. I would imagine that a major swedish auto parts store would have something similar.
Waterbased: Tamiya and Faskolor paints for lexan R/C bodies both work well, however you will have to mix colors to match your desired color.
Modelflex does not work very well by itself, but any of the acrylics work great with the above mentioned NAPA primer. You can spray some in a polyethylene cup and brush paint it on as well, either way just make sure you get complete coverage.
I used Athearn BB GP35 frames under my Spectrum shells. Had to do some filing and grinding to get the shells to fit. Nothing major. IIRC, somebody used to sell Athearn frames already ground down to fit the Lionel/Bachman shell.
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The current Bachman GP30 is the same shell, many are DCC equipped.
I don’t know of who you’re thinking about, but A-line has a GP-30 frame. Part #51101-U, here is a pic of it: http://www.ppw-aline.com/images/frames/PPW-GP3035.jpg. It looks like a modified Athearn GP-35 frame. It sells for $20 bucks, and the Lionel shell sells for $14 bucks: http://www.ppw-aline.com/bdligp30.htm. A-Line also has a powered chassis (#51102), but it sells for $108 bucks. Might be a little expensive for some, but it does have all necessary parts to get running. Of course the cheapest alternative is to use your own frame and modify it.
In case anyone is wondering, no, I have not affiliation with A-Line, I just happen to like their product line a lot. They give me the ability to start a project from the ground up, and keep my building skills fresh. I kind of have a thing for not stripping factory painting, especially when it’s well done.
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