***,
does the “jones strip” have a Model or Serial number to reference at Radio Shack? Maybe if I see one it would be clearer as to how your’e doing the connecting.
Jack
Hello Jack, I don’t have a part number handy RS catalog borrowed grrrr), but I can describe them well enough ( I think) so that you can easily find them at RS, orto ask the clerk. They are black in color and made of plastic. They come in various lengths, with wiring terminals from 2 to as many as 10 or 12. There are one or two mounting holes (depending upon the length and width, as they come in single and double rows of screw contacts) on each end of the strip to mount the strip to whatever you are using.
For stripping insulation off decoder wire I use a 25-35watt soldering iron. You don’t break the wire as in stripping. I don’t know if this would work in the middle of say 8-10ga. The “suitcase” conectors seem the neatest way to go.
Ken
***,
Understand, thanks. I’ve always referred to them as Barrier Terminal Blocks if I understand what you’re talking about.
Much cheaper than RS or Home Depot is Mouser. Check out www.mouser.com and look for part number 538-38770-0102. When it comes up, click on the page and you’ll see all the different sizes.
I use these for all wiring except drop feeders, like you say makes it very easy to trouble shoot problems.
Thanks for both replys, but now I’m still confused; aren’t “drop feeders” what *** is using them for?
Terminal strips:
http://www.radioshack.com/category.asp?catalog_name=CTLG&category_name=CTLG_011_003_009_000&Page=1
Tap-in connectors:
http://www.radioshack.com/search.asp?find=wire+tap-ins&site=search&SRC=1&image1.x=32&image1.y=31
Are those prices on the Radio Shack web site the price for one item? Way, way too expensive.
Taps - Radio Shack over a dollar, Mouser less than 35 cents.
Same with the terminal strips. Radio Shack 2.29 to 2.49, Mouser .82 to 2.16.
Unless it’s an emergency that you need something right now to run to the neighborhood RS and only buying very small quantities, shop around. I quote Mouser because that is the one I use, there are others.
The links were just for the illustrations for folks having trouble visualizing the components. Mouser definitely has better prices. However the RS prices for the connectors are for multi-packs (The number depends on the size) and RS can be convenient if you need a few of something in a hurry.
I strongly vote for the "suitcase connectors. I have used them on two or three layouts with no problems. I used #14 for the bus and #20 for the drops. Technically #20 is too small for the #14 (blue) suitcasebut if you fold the end of the drop back on itself for 3/4 of an inch and pu***he doubled over wire into the hole with one “strand” above the other It work very well and is very reliable.
This same trick works with the GC inline taps sold at Home Depot.
BTW most people use way way to heavy a wire for their DCC buses. If you feel you have to use #10 or #8 wire for a bus it is time to break the layout into power districts and install another booster. As an EE I did some calculations once and the larges wire one ever needs is #14!
I hope this helps. Best of luck