I’m getting back into HO trains after a 35 year hiatus. I bought a prebuilt 4x8 layout with plans to expand it down the road. It aslo came with a NCP Power Cab DCC system.
I purchased a Athearn BN Gp35 that is “DCC Ready” and would like a suggestion on what decoder to buy. I’ve been doing some reading and watching YouTube videos but I’m overall confused as what to get.
Sound is not a must but it would be a plus, but right now I need to keep the budget on the smaller side as well.
Thanks!
Ibanez,
I would recommend a motor-only decoder for now then add sound at a later date, when discretionary funds are more readily available for that. TCS is my go-to motor-only decoder and their T1 is recommended for the Athearn “DCC-ready” GP35.
Here’s the link and how-to installation for that on the TCS website:
https://tcsdcc.com/installation/ho-scale/1060
Cost for a T1 decoder is $25 from Litchfield Station. And they have VERY reasonable shipping costs.
HTH,
Tom
I have the same model and a TCS T1 is the decoder I have to install in it. The T1 fits a lot of locomotives so if you later upgrade to sound you can use the T1 for a different locomotive
Another option ls to fit a sound decoder now and buy and fit the speaker later.
TCS also makes a sound decoder/motherboard/speaker complete kit but that kit involves a bit of retiring so not ideal for a beginner. TCS supplies a new replacement motherboard to connect the speaker and decoder to. This Athearn locomotive doesn’t need a new motherboard just to add sound.
Thank you very much, that was very helpful.
Nowadays, most motor only decoders are very good. I use NCE and the ESU lok-pilot for my railroad. As mentioned TCS would be fine as well. If you ever want to add sound, I would recommend ESU as they have the best sound in my opinion.
Hello All,
“DCC Ready” typically means it has a National Moder Railroad Association (NMRA) compliant 8-pin plug with a dummy plug installed.
Decoders come in pin configurations from 8- to 21-pins.
The more pins the more “Functions”.
A function can be a lighting effect or sound, depending on the decoder.
I have had good luck with Digitrax Decoders.
These have 9-pins on the decoder Printed Circuit Board (PCB). A 9-pin to 8-pin NMRA compliant plug harness is included with some decoders.
Others have a 9-pin to bare wire harness for applications where hardwiring or soldering the decoder in place is necessary.
For non-sound applications I use the DH166 series (six [6]) function outputs or DH126 series (two [2]) function outputs. The letter(s) after the digits denote the harness type:
For decoders with built-in Energy Storage Devices (Keep Alive® Power Xtender®, etc.) which act as a short-term “battery” to allow the locomotives to continue operation over sections of track where the power is intermittent, I prefer the Train Control System (TCS) decoders.
Yes, these are more expensive than non-ESD-equipped decoders but, for installations where space is limited the ESD is built into the decoder to save precious room.
The KAM4-LED decoder also has resistors built onto the PCB so you don’t have to add them when using LEDs.
Most modern decoders are NMRA compliant, which means they will all play well with each other.
There are some exceptions
You’re very welcome. Motor-control is way more important to me than sound and TCS (and ESU) decoders are excellent in that regard. I want any and all of my locomotives to start out at 1sMPH or <. With either manufacturer’s decoder they will do that right out of the box w/o me needing to even tweak the start voltage (CV2).
Tom
Athearn locomotives are really DCC ready. Their lightboard has both an open 8 pin socket and a wired in 9 pin socket with a dummy plug. If you use the 8 pin socket you leave the dummy plug in the 9 pin. If yiu use the 9 pin you remove the dummy and plug in the decoder. In that case you leave the 8 pin socket open. Save the dummy plug, they’re $5 each.
The Athearn locomotives also already have a space for a suitable speaker if you wish to add sound.
From various sources it seems any decoder will fit so it’s your choice. It is recommended that you stick to one brand of decoder if you wish to consist locomotives.
Again thank you everyone, all of this has been very helpful. I now understand many of the terms I had read about but had no idea what it was.
Not to be confused with ESD (electrostatic discharge), which is why decoders come in those dark, shiny, anti-static pouches to protect them from microshocks that could take out senstive components on the decoder board.
Tom
Depending on the decoder, a function may either be an impact on the lighting or a sound. Using Digitrax Decoders has been fruitful for me in the past.
On the Printed Circuit Board (PCB) that they are attached to, these have 9 pins. Some decoders come with a plug harness that is compliant with the NMRA and has 9 pins down to 8 pins.
Some decoders come with a 9-pin to bare wire harness that is designed for use in situations that need the decoder to be soldered or hardwired into place.
The DH166 series, which has six function outputs, and the DH126 series, which has two function outputs, are the ones that I use for applications that do not involve sound.
Also, check the circuitry again.
Lot’s of us have that t-shirt.
Sound, it is undoubtedly more expensive, I like it, some hate it. In the words of George Carlin, “Take a chance” and go for sound. George may have added an additonal adverb.
This is a package that includes sound. IMPORTANT, ESU decoders don’t come with the sound you want for your engine. The usual DCC dealers will add a sound package specific for a GP35 (later than my modeling era) if you ask Here is one option
Since you’re new to DCC, I would start out with just plugging in a regular (non-sound) decoder and get used to programming etc. with that - adding momentum, adjusting the light settings, etc. (I second the recommendation of a TCS decoder, they work great and I find them easy to program.) It’s not that hard to add sound, but maybe not ideal for someone just starting out with DCC.
Then for your second engine, maybe buy a DCC/sound-equipped engine like a Bachmann “Sound Value” engine and see how you like it. Play around with the volume settings, choose different horns and bells, etc.
BTW remember if you add a sound decoder, you also have to find a place for a speaker (and it’s enclosure) in the engine. Some engines have a pre-made enclosure area, like in the fuel tank under the engine - you can get a 1" round speaker in there. You can tell if it has that because there will be openings (holes or slots) on the bottom of the fuel tank, facing down towards the track.