I would have to do some measuring, but I might be able to convince the wife of a layout like the Corkscrew Gultch, if I make the underside a book shelf as well.
I wouldnt be able to go all around the room however, as there is a big front window, an entry door from outside, and also the big archway to the dining room I have to leave all that open. I would love to be able to run a spur in front of the window, but that pretty much would end me right at the entry door, and that’s in the corner of the room. I cant put a lift out there since the door swings in, there wouldnt be a way to lift it out coming from outside. And really the wife would hate me if I go in front of the window as that’s where she really really really wants to put the Christmas tree, which wont even be up for almost a year, lol.
And the archway is quite wide, it’s almost the entire one wall. I think I can convince her though to let me have some of the table just out into the d
This is one that I was running for a while. Even though anyrail says it suposedly doesn’t fit it worked fine with Bachman ez track. You could run up to 3 locos on it simultaniously I ended up ditching this though cause I needed 22" and 24" radius turns so I could run my bigger boys on them
Wait untill you get into your new house, and build the table as big as you want/can. Most 4X8s are a basic ovel,and some spurs. You don’t really need a plan .
Take that ‘‘ton’’ of sectional track, and start laying. Put the sections together, to make sure every thing flows, but don’t nail or glue, untill you are sure it works and you like it.
You should be able to see what will or won’t fit in your space. And will determind what You may need to buy.
Untill you have your table, this is all pretty mutch wasted worry.
John Allen on planning: “A model railroad should probably start with a concept. Why? Because much knowledge about railroading, experience in model railroading, and thought are required before a proper concept for a model railroad can be formed. These requirements are seldom possible on a first pike. Mine was no exception.” - -John Allen; Gorre & Daphetid Railroad.
I too am constrained by a 4’x8’ space. Not by choice but by “She who must be obeyed”.
Unfortunately, I believe running a 2-8-4 with 85-foot passenger cars might be a little ambitious on a 4’x8’ pike.
If you could expand your pike to a 5’x9’ this could expand your layout possibilities too. I still think larger steamers and/or six-axle diesels and 85-foot passenger cars would look out of place even on this expanded size.
As has been posted, using flex track would also increase the trackage possibilities.
John Allen on planning: “A model railroad should probably start with a concept. Why? Because much knowledge about railroading, experience in model railroading, and thought are required before a proper concept for a model railroad can be formed. These requirements are seldom possible on a first pike. Mine was no exception.” - -John Allen; Gorre & Daphetid Railroad.
I too am constrained by a 4’x8’ space. Not by choice but by “She who must be obeyed”.
Wdodge0912 I’m looking for something that’ll fit in the 4x8, but also have a dual track loop, with the outer having 22" curves for the longer steam locomotive with passanger (SIC) trains I would like to get, a 2-8-4.
Unfortunately, I believe running a 2-8-4 with 85-foot passenger cars might be a little ambitious on a 4’x8’ pike.
Take a look at this thread…Is 4x8 still the go-to standard for first time layout builders and why?.
And this one…Running 24" radius car on 18"radius track?.
If you could expand your pike to a 5’x9’ this could expand your layout possibilities too. I still think larger steamers and/or six-axle diesels and 85-foot passenger cars would look out of place even on this expanded size.
As has been posted, using flex track would also increase the trackage possibilities.
For something against a wall, what about something like this?
I not drawn to any scale or anything. And I know it’s a reverse loop so I’d need help wiring that all up. And if I wanted to just roll trains, I’d need something to make the switches switch too.
But the end loop that is just a loop would be 18" radius behind a scenic divider, to hide the longer train going around it since it looks unrealistic. I’d probably make it look it goes into a tunnel and comes back out. Just enough that the last carnies in before the engine pops back out. Of course it would be removable if a derailment occurs.
Then the reverse loop would be as big as I need it to be to fit the industries inside the loop, and have the excursion train look good doing it too.
Had also thought about a helix on one end, and doing a tiered area, the bottom part with a yard, and the top with the industries. Might help keep it to a smaller length, if I can get a wider width. Might be able to fit that into an L shaped layout, the helix on one end, and the rest on the other
Skimming through your thread once more, I get the idea, that the best way to move forward is what oldline1 posted. Instead of getting stuck in too much planning, build that 4 by 8 table and start experimenting with what you have got. In your situation, building a bespoke benchwork for a layout may not be the best choice, as it leaves little room for modifications.
Given the original goals, you don’t gain anything by adding the requirement of throwing switches with every lap vs. a true dogbone.
Note that a workable helix is definitely not a beginner’s project and will require something like a 28" radius. The helix alone would take up most of your space.
It’s tempting to sketch out track arrangements freehand. But if not drawn to scale, you will be in for an unhappy surprise when building.
Well here is the thing are you building a model railroad/train set
or are you building a Games table? IMHO they are mutualy exclusive its one or the other.
This is based on the games I play which can be walked away from and you can come back later and continue.
I did a search for the Building The Virginian thread which should be on this forum somewhere but drew a blank.
This was a Model Railroader project layout in HO scale that starts with an 8’ X 4’ layout and has two extensions for a later date the Thin Branch and a small staging yard.
There where full construction articles in Model Railroader as well as a long running thread in this forum and video’s ect on the MRR site.
I think it is worth a look and some concideration if nothing else.
It is a bit more serious than most 8’ X 4’s but I liked it and if I had not got as far with the layout I was building at the time
I would have scraped it and started a double size Virginian myself same layout
Just twice the size to get a longer run all yards ect still the same size, Just double the train run and hopefully a bit more impressive scenery.
We close on the house on the 20th. We are still figuring out rooms and such, since she wants our bunnies to have hard flooring, but yet wants to put them in a room where we would have to rip up the carpet.
If the trains end up in the second living room, I’ll be doing a switching layout on top of a book shelf (like a half height one or so) I’ll probably make the bookshelf myself. I also though for the longer passanger cars I have, and want to get a long steam engine for them, I could do a loop around the room, but up towards the ceiling. Not sure if HO would be too small for something like that, but I could do that.
If my stuff goes into the master bedroom, I’m going to have to figure it out then. But I was thinking a U or L shape would fit, and I could also put a tunnel or 2 through into the walk in closet.
Its best to get settled in your space, choosing what room you can have a layout in before you get too deep into this.
Along that thinking, what do you mean by “bunnies”. Is that an acronym for cute toddlers or do you and your wife actually have pet rabbits? (Are you saying one room for multiple toddlers or multiple rabbits?)
If its the latter, is there any reason that you couldn’t build an around the room layout in their bedroom, say 48 inches high on shelves, then use the floor area as intended. Seems like that would be the least intrusive way to have both hobbies.
The game table can still go in the living room as intended.
Pet rabbits. We call them bunnies to differentiate them from outside wildlife rabbits. And I have thought of that, but they are quite destructive and very good at hopping up where they shouldnt be. In our first apartment together we had a black storage shelf, and I was using their room for a work space on my rc cars I was racing at the time. They managed to jump to the top of it and chew the motor wires on my cars. And they got down from there too safely.
So I would put something in there, but I’d probably have to put a lid on it, as they would chew anything that’s left out (not just wires, but trains and buildings) they would at least get up on the table for sure and knock stuff around.
I think with either room I’m going for a switching layout now though, and then also making a loop around the room, but above the doorways. I know I’ll need a ladder, but I will be able to run my passanger train around that, and itll be the only one. I’ll probably have sections of plexiglass or something attached so it is boxed in
A few random suggestions after reading through this thread.
-Get in the space first before making any solid decisions or buying more stuff.
-If you decide to go the standalone table layout and can swing it, go 5x9. It will allow you to go 27 or 28 on the outer loop, 24" (they make sectional track in 24" which can save you some flex frustration) on the inner and 22" inside that. Almost everything will run well and look pretty good on those curves. Also, you may be able to find a used sturdy Ping Pong table (I did) and save yourself time and money on benchwork.
-Don’t limit yourself by the track you have now. Just don’t. Swtiches can be pricey, but Code 100 track generally isn’t Buy what you need to get the best result.
-#4 and #6 switches are a better option than snap-switches.
-Bookshelves under are a pretty good idea, though you may want to think through where your’re going to keep trains, kits, tools, supplies etc.
-Abandon the idea of a combo gaming table and train table. That’s a sure fire way to make comprimises that will ruin both experiences. If you have to have both, make yourself a fun little layout on a thick piece of 4x8 extrude
