Has anyone used super elevated curves? I thought it my be helpful in the curves. I have a 2026 engine that likes to tip over in curves. It isn’t going very fast, it just tips over. Is there something wrong with the engine. I would still like to try elevating the curves. Any tips on how to do it?
Thanks
Is it the later, Korean-War 2026? That one was built with the blind middle drivers larger than the others, so that the front and rear drivers are never on the rails at the same time. That might lead to climbing the rails on a curve and falling to the outside.
This one is the early model 1949. It does have a center driver that has no flange. I’ll have to measure the wheels to see if one is larger. Interesting. That sure would be a problem. Thanks for the tip.
In fact at one time lionel produced some olive green track which had a slope to them the out rails were about 1/4" higher than the iner rail or somewhere around that. I’ve only seen this track once so its not very common. And yes I checked the bottom and it did stat Lionel on it. Been about 7 years now since I saw it.
but it was neat. Seems like it was prewar track. In fact I’m starting to think it was Standard gauge but may be wrong it might of been O maybe some of the others may remember it also.
I assume since you are advocating the super elevation of the curve that the locomotive in question is falling outward as it traverses the curve. If that is the case, super elevation may not work and the locomotive would probably just fall outward as it exits the super elevation.
I have a tender that will not traverse an O-27 curve, but it just derails and doesn’t fall over.
If you do want to super elevate a curve, just take a piece of 14-16 gage insulated wire and put it beneath the ends of the ties. It makes a constant super and the wire is easily hidden with ballast. Super is more of an aesthetic function for model trains than an operational function.
[:P]
I have used the wire trick and went a step further used 12 gauge home wire. I can run any post war engine at a good gallop and narry a flop over in 10 years of operating and those 50’s locos do run quick. I love the look of super elevated track as I have 19’ run so can really see its true effect.
Lionel apparently designed that larger wheel in the vain belief that it would improve the magnetraction performance, then dropped magnetraction from the model because of the difficulty of getting magnets during the war, but left the outsized wheel. You don’t need a measurement to see the effect: You can pitch the locomotive fore and aft on level track. When the motor bearings wore out on mine, I replaced the motor assembly with one from a 2037, thus getting retaining the smoke generator, adding magnetraction, and getting uniform wheel diameters.
You shouldn’t see any pitching on the earlier 2026.
Do you just elevate the tract on curves or through the entire run?
You are correct on the early 2026. The wheels are all the same size and there is no pitching. My other 2026 is the later 2-6-4 and it does have the larger unflanged wheel and has magnatraction. The only engine that seems to have this tendency to take a flyer once in a while is the earlier 2026. I guess it is because it does not have magnatraction and is there fore sensitive to curves, especially 027 curves. I will just have to be more careful and watch my speed. I will also try the super elevated track on the curves as has been suggested. Thanks to all who responded with ideas and knowledge.
[8D]
yes I start about 8" before the curve starts and elevate it all through the curve until 8" after it , it looks good and reflects what railroads do. its a bit of work as wire has a mind of it’s own. do one curve and see if you like it and if it works good for you then do the rest . if you use dcs it will lower the signal strength but not much to care about.
This is how I do mine: Cover the outside of the curve witha single length of masking tape. Measure in 1" on both ends of this 1st strip, and cover it with a 2nd layer of tape. Continue in this manner- measureing in an inch on each end and applying layer after layer until you reach the middle. Place your homosote roadbed over your now super-elevated curve and you’re in business.
Bruce E. Vincelette
The conversation here about super elevated track jogged my memory. As a child I had track from a number of sources, since my dad bought used trains from his co-workers for my older brother. When I came along I got to play with his trains. I remember that I would get frustrated at times because some of the track was “slanted” and made the train wobble if I didn’t get an entire curve put together using the same type of track.
I went digging through some of those infamous boxes under the train table and came up with all the old track, including the “slanted” track I remembered.
The curves are superelevated.
And it appears that there was also straight sections with the same kind of “slanting”.
Someone obviously produced both straight and curved super elevated sections of track in O gauge.
I have checked over all of the pieces and I cannot find a name on it anywhere.
Here is a close up of the tie
Cabinet or door shims, available at hardware stores. They are dirt cheap. Each one can be split lengthwise to make three shims. Start one straight section (or more) away from the curve and start with the skiiny shims. After placement I use my air brad nailer and secure them. Tehy work great.
Thanks for sharing this info. What a great idea. I wonder why someone doesn’t make this. I am going to try the door shim idea on my layout.
