I have recently decided to control the hidden switches on my train layout by using music wire run in a tube. The brass tubing from K&S works for some sections, but need much more flexibility for other locations. Where can i purchase flexible tubing to run these cables in? Also, anyone else have any other tips for this control method that will make my life easier?
The was an article online that I found, probably about 5 years back that described a method for turnout control using parts for RC model airplanes. I believe they were called pushrods. This had something like what you are referring to. It was basically one flexible tube inside another larger flexible sleeve.
I used to live near a hobby shop specializing in RC stuff, and I went there for the parts, but I’m sure you could get 'em online.
I’ll do some searching when I get home tonight to see if I can find that article. I’m sure I printed it out.
Have you considered drip irrigation plastic or rubber tubing? It is at Home depot in my area, or on line at numerous drip irrigation stores. I have seen 1/2", 1/4", and 1/8" in rolls of 50 to 100 feet. Even has plastic 90 degree connectors available.
Go to a LHS that sell R/C aircraft, you can get flexible pushrods in either 36" or 48" lengths with a flexible cable inside a plastic tube. It also come in 1/16" or 1/32 diameter flex cable [:D].
If you use this type of system you must anchor both ends and also about every 6-8" along the length to prevent to tube from flexing.
The only other ? I have is the way in which each end is anchored as well as the middle of the tubing. Anyone have pictures/articles on this type of setup?
Take a look at your LHS at Sullivan flexible control surface cable. Its for radio control aiplanes and comes in lengths of 36 and 48 inches, and varing degress of flex from rigid to soft. Its meant to have a threaded rod inserted into each end and snake through a fuselage from the servo to the control surface.
It has an outer sheeth and an inner rod that is splined to reduce friction. It also comes in serveral diameter sizes.
Depending on how far you have to go they work flawless.
Go to an air condition or plumbing supply house and purchase the smallest copper tubing they carrie, will come in 50 foot lengths should cost under $25.00 bucks, drill out whole size to just get the tubing to go thru control panel and feed over to switch, cut off copper to correct length, swage the ends to hold copper in place, feed wire thru.
Here you can see two pics of the push-rod arrangement I did on my On30 modules. I later also installed knobs. The rods are made by Sullivan. In the end I have screwed in a 2 mm or a 2-56 screw(Sullivan makes two sizes). Around the screw I have wrapped a steelwire that fits in the hole on the Peco turnouts. The visible part of the pushrod will later be colored, ballasted and covered by undergrowth.
At our railroad club “N Scale” we use the same piano wire as you mentioned to move the switch.
'the absolute perfect" material to use as tubing is regular 14 gauge wire wrap. Take a strand of either the black OR white cut to desired length or a little more, remove or pull out the copper wire. You will be left with a flexible tuble which is unabtrusive above the scenery and can be manipulated around corners or beneath roadbed.
OOps -----I almost forgotYou can attach it along the surface of the layout with staples or wire holders. If the area or length is not too critical - hot glue
Go to towerhobbies.com and do a search on pushrods. You will find photos and descriptions of many, many types and also connectors and other associated hardware. The Gold-N-Rod mentioned by someone is at:
If you have access to a copy of the April 1998 MR, there a good { and simple } way of making a turnout control using a slide switch, some piano wire and a coat hanger. You’ll find it on pg 97. I’ve used them in several locations and they work just fine. Hope this helps.