The weak point will be the screws on the hinge. Glue will help that. You can do it now or later after they start to pull out. If you wait, replace the current screws with longer ones. Allow the glue to dry before you re-hang it.
If you want to avoid the issue altogether, you can use machine screws with a nut, washer and lock washer. on the wood side.
I was thinking the same thing. I also like the way you notched down the surface. I presume that you’re going to put that trestle up on piers, and the notch will be the ground level with the bridge above it. Will it be water or a dry wash?
Some excellent carpentry and design. With bridge abutments and piers that low bridge section will be a diorama in itself.
One note, as Spacemouse found is the weak point at the hindges. The boxed swing gate is strong itself however, that weight could soon be a problem for misalignment as it droops. There is no provision for a swinging brace back to the benchwork leg. Also, is that unbraced leg solidly fixed to the floor? Standard door hindges do have play as you found just from mounting. Piano hindges have the least play and wear quite well.
You still can add a brace and hindge to the leg. I would provide a mounting that will allow for future adjustments to compensate for any sagging/ droop. You can also slightly bevel the bottom of the gate at the interlock shelf. This will stop you from having to lift the gate if even the slightest sag starts.
You have done one excellent job on this, I am only trying to head off any future troubles for operating this great work. I hang all my doors to hopefully last 20-30 years or 'til the thing is worn out.
You and Chip bring up the points that had me worried. The hinges are attached with very long screws. They are ball bearing hinges. I didn’t glue anything because I want to be able to adjust and possibly redo the gate if it doesn’t hold up.
Both sides of the gate have supports bolted into the concrete floor at the bottom and solidly attached to the walls on the ends.
The leverage factor on the end of the gate is an issue. I was considering adding an angled brace if things start to move too much. The gate comes back to the same spot exactly and the metal strike plates that the end rests on in the pocket should prevent too much wear alignmnet problems. If the sag gets to be excessive, I will put in the brace. As it is right now, I can still duck under it. This is something I would rather
Just curious what are the approx. dimensions of your swing gate and what thickness plywood did you use?
I like the ledge you have the end of the gate resting on, I have a gate in the plans and always thought that was the way to keep the vertical alignment in check.
Mr. B: Underneath the trestle I probably will do a low lying river bottom look common to the central valley in CA. No water if I can avoid it.
Mike, The plans came from an Article in July 2007 RMC “Building a Model Railroad Gate” by Fred Headon. My gate is approx 36" X 6" wide X 9" tall at the ends . Plywood on the sides is 1/2", on the bottom is 3/4". I would probably use 1/2" on the bottom if I had it to do over to save some weight. There is a 2" x 4" in the gate at the hinge attachment point to provide a solid surface for the hinges. The side frames are kiln dried, straight and true (expensive…) fir 2" X 4". The fasica on the pocket side is 3/4" ply.
Thanks for noticing the bolt detail. I was going to build it without the Nut/bolt /Washer castings (NBW’s). Some of my modeling friends convinced me that the bolts were necessary. So I did the math to find out that I would need around 1,000 NBWs to do boith sides of the trestle!! I cheated and did only one side (facing the inside of the room) and the bents for a total of around 600!! Didn’t take as long as I thought it would.
The wear plate under the free end of the swing bridge will be key to maintaining alignment. Should the hinges allow future sag, just loosen the screws in the wear plate and slip some paper shims under it and retighten the screws. To unload the hinges when the gate is open, another landing fitted for that position would serve the purpose.
That idea crossed my mind as well. Unfortunately the gate contacts the opposite fascia (across the aisle) in the middle of a switch control panel (great model planing there). So far I have been leaving the gate closed except when exiting or entering the room. I may make a resting pocket for the gate in the open position someday, but it will necessitate moving the switch panel…
Beautiful work, like the old radio show “Give that man a Mars bar”. Having not been modeling for sometime, I am very far behind. I have a question. I like to scratchbild but never heard of RMC. [D)] Would appreciate more info about them.
Hi Guy. You have done an excellent job there! [bow] A lot of food for thought. I’m getting to the stage where I will need to start construction on a swing gate. I hope you don’t mind if I take some of your ideas and run with them.[:-^] Again this looks GREAT! [bow]
Sorry for posting so late, but I had not seen this thread before. This is impressive and so creative! A friend of mine is currently rebuilding his layout and is considering building a lift section. I’m going to make certain that he see this.
Excellent work, thank you for posting this [:D]
[quote user=“trainnut1250”]
Jan. 2009 - Thought you might enjoy an update on the projects-
Added a an arm to the gate and built a trestle on it:
Scratchbuilt trestle:
Another view:
Overview of scene:
Still more to do on the trestle underbrush.
Turntable update:
Scratch built the bridge from styrene based on the Sierra RWY Jamestown TT. The cardboard engine house is based off of the Yosemite Valley roundhouse in Merced. The pit is cast hydrocal. Am currently truing up the bridge trucks to track accurately on the pit rail.
