What is the most popular and realistic method of controlling switches from the control panel.
Depends on the circumstance. Are you talking about manual control? Remote/motorized control? DCC accessory control? Narrow down the search a bit…
Lee
I think this thread may be what your looking for. Check it out. turnout controls
For close up yards, I like caboose throws. They work and are realistic.
For remote I have some Humpyard. They work well for simple applications and smooth running switches. For complex situations, I find them hard to adjust.
For ‘realistic’ the ModraTec interlocking levers are tops:
I enjoy the realism of the Humpyard mechanical controls. They tell me which position a given switch is in at a glance and require no electrical wiring (a big plus if you are electrically challenged as am I). You can check them out at http://www.humpyard.com/
I enjoy the realism of the Humpyard mechanical controls. They tell me which position a given switch is in at a glance and require no electrical wiring (a big plus if you are electrically challenged as am I). You can check them out at http://www.humpyard.com/
I am looking for a remote/motorized unit. not sure if it will be DC or DCC…
Circuitron’s Tortoise switch machines are the best on the market for realistic operation and ease of installation with an internal DPDT switch for frog power and/or switch position indication lighting or feedback.
Not only are they realistic (they even sound realistic), they are also robust. At my club, all switches are Tortoise powered, and we’ve installed 200-300 machines in the past 10 years. Not one has ever failed…except for the one that someone drilled through the top of it (obviously, not the machine’s fault).
They are, however, the most expensive machine option, AFAIK. They are now $19.95 MSRP at Walthers, but one can generally find them online or from a mail order place for less than that.
The one thing that we change out is to replace the included small diameter throw wire with some .039" dia. piano wire. One also has to drill out the actuator hole with a #60 drill bit to accomodate it, but it’s not a big deal. It does result in a much firmer throwing action especially with thicker benchwork.
Paul A. Cutler III
Cool tip on the tortoise.
Regarding DC or DCC, I hate seeing DCC switches, because not every throttle can handle them. Example, Digitrax’ UT4, which was designed to be a little robust one-hander switcher throttle. most DCC systems come with a larger throttle that can do it, but if you’ll ever have a need for a second throttle, or just like the feel of the smaller throttle in your hand, then you’ll be hosed.
Stevie,
You mention ‘from the control panel’ in your original post. There are several ways to control switches:
Panel - Usually electrically controlled motors like the Tortoise or Twin-Coil machines. A small toggle switch on the panel is used to control them. I am a big fan of the Tortoise motors - very solid performers. Twin-Coil machines tend to ‘slam’ themselves apart over the years and are prone to burnout if a toggle sticks. There are C-D power units to help prevent the burnout issue.
Ground Throws - these are small replicas of actual prototype turnout controls you see next to the switch. The Caboose Industries ground throws are very popular.
Remote ‘Linkage’ Controls - these vary from panel/fascia mounted push/pull knobs to small levers like the Hump Yard Purveyance levers.
DCC Stationary Decoders - this is the newest control method. If you layout is wired/set up for Digital Command Control, you can have a decoder attached to the electric switch motor(like a Tortoise) and control the switch from your walk-around throttle or a panel. Of course you need to have a DCC system and the stationary decoder/Tortoise motor to make this work. There are also firms like Tam Valley Depot that offer DCC powered servo switch motors. They use standard R/C airplane 9 gram servos instead of the Tortoise motors.
Jim