I’m using Atlas code 83 flex to build my layout. I’m running a section of track into an adjacent storage room where it will perform a loop and come out below the mainline. I was wondering if I should transition to code 100 track for this “hidden” track? Does the code 100 actually perform better wrt smooth, derailment-free operation? Thanks
Unless you have surplus code 100 you just wanna use, I’d say you could stick with the code 83.
If you can lay track well and consistently, and won’t be using pizza-cutter flanges on older wheels, I don’t see any advantage. Effectively, I answer as Dave does.
-Crandell
If all the rail you have on hand is Code 83, there’s no practical reason to change to Code 100 where the sun don’t shine.
OTOH, if you already have some Code 100 left over from earlier construction, or can get some REALLY cheap at a garage sale, the best place to use it is where the sun don’t shine.
My underworld is largely laid with Code 100 - including some brass that’s old enough to run for President. I deliberately spliced in a couple of lengths of Code 83 Atlas flex, for two reasons:
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Check how much of a problem transitioning from one to the other would be. (Answer - none. With Atlas products on both sides of the transition joint, the only thing needed was a sliver of styrene under the Code 83 rail inside the Atlas universal rail joiner. The difference in rail heights is matched by a corresponding difference in tie heights, so the railheads meet level,)
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Check to detect wheels that might get actively unhappy running on Code 83. (Answer - nothing in my collection of rolling stock has any rail-height-related hiccups. This includes rolling stock dating clear back to the late 50s.)
So, why am I using Code 100? Because I have hundreds of feet of the stuff, salvaged from (or bought for, but never used on) earlier layouts. That said, why Code 83 for visible construction? Because that’s the size that has the best looking ties, both wood and concrete, to match the practices of my prototype.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
I am using C83 track for my layout also… I’m also planning to do somewhat what your doing with my staging. It will run from the main level to go underneath an upper logging section, reverse loop and come back out. I’ve got A bunch of C100 track from before that I’ll use on the hidden staging loop. I just plan on saving the better looking stuff (C83) for all visible areas. But don’t go buying more C100 just for it. Use what you got!
I mix and match code 83 and code 100 all the time, since my old brass track was code 100. I assume that you know that you join code 83 to code 100 track with Transition joiners. They are a little tricky to use, because the transition is a little flimsy, but "use Transition joiner, or you will have “Trouble”. I plan to update all my extensive layout to code 83 nickel-silver track ,“eventually”. All odd track, (eg.) double slip switches and double curve track are code 83 today. So, go for code 83! Solder feeders from every section of track to the “bus wires”.(Or use “suitcase connectors”). I never solder joiners… I use plastic joiners with a “jujmper wire” soldered across any joint that, some day, may have to be insulated to accomodate reverse loops, wyes, or round house wiring with reverse loop modules. Divide your layout into Power Districts, that have toggle switches to allow you to shut down any Power district, without influencing the operation of the rest of the layout. Bob
On my previous layout I used Code 83 (Atlas and Walthers) for the main layout and Code 100 (Atlas) for the hidden staging yard. The thought was that Code 100 was more forgiving and wouldn’t be subject to derailments as Code 83.
My new layout is all Code 83 (Atlas). In staging yards I use the Atlas 9" rerail sections every 6 feet. It works great.
IMHO - The only advantage to using code 100 in staging is if you have lots of staging and would like to save some money on track no one will see. I have 300’ of hidden staging. I bought a box of code 100 for a lot less per section than the ME code 83 & 70 that I use on the visible mainline. Transitions can be made using transition joiners (personally, I don’t like em’), crushed rail joiner technique or simple shim and butt solder. All work fine if done correctly.
Guy
Thanks for the info, everyone. If there isn’t going to be any noticeable difference in operation, I’ll probably spend the little bit extra and go code 83 for the whole thing. That way, if (when) I decide to move or rebuild the entire layout, I’ll already have lots of code 83 for my (hopefully) bigger empire!
Sound decision.
Mark
Like others have posted if You have some cd 100 laying around use it up in the hidden areas & use the 83 ,70 or whatever in the visable areas. If You don’t have any 100 then just buy the cd 83. If You are planning large staging yards the cd 100 can save You some money, but it’s up to You (& Your budget ). I plan on using My supply of cd 100 flextrack & switches up & that’ll be the end of it. Darn , I’m really starting to like the looks of cd 70. (More $ ). luck, R…