I am currently working on a small N scale table top layout. I had laid all the track on the outer loop all soldered in, and of course a problem came along. I am using standard Atlas right switches (without the switch box, I planned to buy them later) and was finding the locomotive was struggling to switch over at low speeds and would stall around the frog. I removed the whole piece and spent about an hour realigning track and resoldering. Needless to say, it was extremely frustrating as the new switch piece is doing the same thing.
Could this problem be due to the fact that I don’t have a switch box and the switch is becoming unaligned as the front wheels of the locomotive pass over? Its usually the back set of wheels that is stall. Possibly the back wheels and the switched track to the frog become unaligned? Any advice would be great because I am not planning or wanting to destroy more track and I really don’t have the money to keep buying replacement switches.
Hi. I’ve never worked with Atlas N scale switches, but if they are anything like their HO scale brothers, you have likely hit on the solution.
In HO, there must be something in place to keep pushing the point rail against the stock rail at all times, or you’ll get just what you describe. The contact tension is needed to prevent derailments, and to ensure power will flow thru the points to get the loco beyond the frog. That is why you need the switch motor or a manual throw assembly.
I assume your loco is long enough to get by if the frog is insulated. You may have to apply power directly to some frogs via contacts on your switch motor or a relay.
If you’ve never worked with N scale switches, please don’t blunder in and try to answer the question.
Are you working with the older code 80 track with the black plastic frog, or the newer code 55 with the smaller rail and a metal frog?
That will help me answer your question.
Generally, unless you’re using a very short wheelbase locomotive, the problem you’re describing is the result of dirty wheels on the engine. If the pickup from the lead truck is spotty, when the “clean” truck hits the insulated frog, it will stall. Atlas turnouts are designed to allow power to flow through the turnout uninterrupted, both on C80 and C55 versions. But the frogs are both insulated, so there is a gap there.
The difference with the C55 is that there is a provision for you to wire the frog to route power based on the alignment of the switch. There are several ways to skin the cat to make this work, depending on whether you want to manually operate the turnout, or use remote control.
Give me some more detail about what you’ve got going on there, and I’ll try to help you through this.
Meanwhile, I’ll try to refrain from commenting on HO track work, about which I know very little.
I am not sure if this is your exact problem but this is something that does happen.
You are using a switch with a plastic frog so when the truck passes over the frog there is no electrical contact to that truck on the side on top of the frog.
So you are relying on the other truck for electrical contact.
If the other truck has dirty wheels or dirt or fuzz in the wheel points- you won’t have good electrical contact to the motor and the engine will stop.
Lift up the engine and turn it around, does the engine still stop over the frog? If it goes through fine , you probably have a dirt issue in one of the trucks.
If you have a meter you can check to see if you have electrical contact between the wheels and the engines frame.
While you have that meter out you can also test the track to see if all sections of the switch are getting power .
If you are relying on rail joiners to conduct power from one section of track to another, that could be part of the problem too.
Actually, I think the HO’er may have it right. If the Original Poster bought Atlas N Scale “Standard” switches, he probably means Code 80 model numbers 2750/2751, since the word “Standard” is on the packaging.
These are intended to have some sort of point-holding mechanism added, whether manual or switch machine/switch motor. Without the addition of some mechanism, the points will slip slightly out of position, which could be causing the problems the Original Poster is describing.
Bottom line, the OP needs to add some method of holding the points, whether from Atlas, a Caboose Industries ground throw, or something homebrew. There may be something else going on as well, but this is the first thing to correct.
I believe the frogs on these are plastic, in which case, there’s no way to add wiring to the frog.
The points are secured to the hinge via a conductive rivet in a conductive pad. While it’s better to have the tension of a mechanical switch throw, it’s not necessary, at least not on a new out of the box switch. (this is the same design on both c55 and c80)
One sure way to test the flow of juice through the points would be to energize the switch, and use a tester on one stock rail and one point rail to see if you have continuity.
One other possibility might be in the fact that the OP soldered the joints. It’s possible that in soldering the track, he may have overheated the stock rail, causing it to lose contact with the “bridge” that is supposed to keep current flowing to the rails between the frog and the point. This is more likely to happen in N scale track due to the smaller parts, and the closer proximity between the end of the rail and the sensitive plastic bits that are to keep things insulated.
I typically refrain from soldering in my turnouts for this purpose, and to allow for easier replacement if something else goes wrong.
I also model in N and have had some problems with the Atlas switches in the past. A couple suggestions from others on the forum that have worked for me in making these turnout work better are
Have some type of control on the switch to ensure good contact for the switch points and rails
2 Spend some time with a needle file to smooth the points for smoother operation.
3 Chech the switch with a track guage as sometimes the rail goes out of guage.
4 Chech whether there is too much space between the rail and the guard rail as this can cause problems with tracking through the switch
5 Lastly add a couple of track nails in the middle of the switch as i have had a couple switches form a hump that causes poor pickup between the track and wheels.
I have been doing the above to all new switches that I put down and have found at least one of the above that needed correcting on every switch.
If one of the rails between the points and the frog does not have current flowing through it, flip the switch over and look for some holes in the ties. You should be able to use a pointed punch in the hole to make the electrical connection.
I had a problem with some of my Atlas code 55 switches and this is what Atlas told me to do. Since I had soldered wires to the switch, it voided the warranty.