I’m looking at buying 36 switch machines to use with 36 Peco electrofrog TOs and I’m trying to figure costs. My question concerns what accessories (if any) are needed with these two Switch machines, Tortoise and Peco switch machines. They will be mounted through 1/4" plywood and 3/4" to 2" foam on an N Scale DCC layout.
On many sites accessories are listed for both But I don’t know exactly what is needed to mount these machines. I’m not interested in any wireing or stationary decoder costs at this time only total cost per machine. Several sites offer both machines at good prices but any accessories can make a difference if you aren’t aware you need them. I’ve looked at Tonystrains site but I did not see any comments regarding accessory needs.
The standard Tortoise comes with “auxilliary contacts” which can be used to control signals or indicator lights for your control panel. The standard Peco does not, so you need to add either the one that attaches to the machine, or a separate relay. You can buy adequate relays for a couple of bucks online. If you don’t plan on having such lights, then you don’t need them.
Peco turnouts have a small spring mounted on the points which holds them against the rails. If you’re driving them with a Tortoise, you should remove the spring before you install the turnout. If you’re using a Peco switch machine, then you need to leave the spring in.
The spring isn’t an “accesory,” but it does lead to one. The spring holds very well, which is one reason the Peco turnouts work so well. However, it means that the switch machines need to have more “kick” to get the points to throw against the resistance of the spring. So, you really should have a Capacitive Discharge circuit to throw Peco switch machines. CD circuits are easy to make, and only cost a few dollars in parts, or you can buy one for around $30. In my opinion, you should have a CD circuit for any twin-coil machines. They all throw better, and the circuit protects the machines from accidental burnout if your control toggle sticks.
It all depends on what you want.Costwise,the Peco PL-10 is by far the unbeatable setup.They hook up directly to the turnout,work flawlessly and don’t need any accessory other than a low cost momentary SPDT switch and wires.Add a CDU for power and you’re all set.
Two minor drawbacks to this installation…some don’t like the “click” sound and go to slow motion motors for more prototypical operation.The other negative is that the turnout motors are visible unless you create some ways to hide them,like ballasted covers or other device like railway service builiding,etc.You will also need some space available in the layout soil for the motors (approx. 1 1/2 in.) to bury them and a little more if you wish to install an accessory power switch (PL-13) for signalling or whatever.
On the other hand,Tortoise’s are more prototypical in operation,completely invisible and carry their own terminals for signalling or other specific needs.Their installation is fairly simple as they bolt to the underside of the layout and don’t need any special accessory if close enough to the turnout.Constant DC for power through a regular SPDT switch (no CDU power).However,some engineering and probably special adaptors will be required for installation through 2" foam,not counting their steeper price,but they are a very nice option.Your choice.
The only modification I do is use heavier music (?piano) wire. This lets it go longer without too much curvature. To to this I heat one end of it and insert into the hold in the acuator, effectively enlarging it. I guess you could use a drill, but this worked easier the first time I did it with a soldering iron under the layout, so I continue to do it. Works fine on 3 of my turnouts…
Besides what’s already been said, if you are using the Pecos and mounting them directly to the turnout, which is what they’re designed for, you’ll need to dig a rather large rectangular hole in the foam to accept them. This hole can be a little difficult to completely hide. You can buy mounting plates for attaching the point motors to the underside of the plywood, requiring only a small hole drilled up to the turnout. However, this will require lengthening the actuating pin on the point motors. I did this by using some steel wire the same diameter as the pin and splicing it onto the pin with brass tubing. I crimped the tubing to the pin and the wire then put a drop of ACC in each end. A word of advice from bitter experience. Don’t try to make the extension the exact length required. Make it longer. Much easier to to push it through the hole in the tie bar. It can be cut off later with a cutoff wheel. I also made jigs to hold the turnout in its centre position and to hold the armature of the point motor in its centre position until everything was installed. It’s a lot of work to mount a Peco under the table, but it eliminates the big hole. Maybe that won’t be so bad in HO because almost all of it will be under the turnout, but in N half the hole sticks out beside the track.
There was a thread a while back about a technique to hide the hole from the Peco turnout. Basically, take some cardboard and cover it with a piece of duct tape. Cut the cardboard just a bit bigger than the hole, and add holes or slots as appropriate to fit it between the turnout and the switch machine. Paint the tape the color of your ballast. (The tape, incidentally, will protect the cardboard, particularly when ballasting with water.) I’ve done this on a couple of turnouts and it works very well.
If you do want to mount the Peco switch machine lower, take a look at the longer-shaft model of the switch machine. It’s the same price. But, from personal experience I’d stick with the model that mounts directly, and slip in a cardboard cover to hide the opening.
I haven’t mounted the Pecos any deeper than 1/2" through Homasote. This requires the longer shaft (Peco used to supply a shaft extender) and a hole big enough for the shaft to move. The hole usually disappears under the switch.
With this arrangement, I have used the Peco mounts, but found that 2 #8 screws with a wide pan head would work.
Otherwise, you mount directly to the switch and carve a rectangular hole in the foam --with air space for cooling.
Thanks everyone for you advise and suggestions. I appreciate it. The PL10 sound like a good deal and mounting some on top and some under table will work for me.