Switches

i have a really simple small layout"Simplicity and Great plains." I have the Atlas snap switch machines now but I was thinking of going with basic ground throws. What do you all think? I’ve seen some large layouts with all manual ground throughs.

The SIW uses all caboose indutries ground throws and Atlas Snap Track and it works quite well on a small switching layout but on a larger layout walking around to manull switch might get tiresome. Even on the SIW I drilled holes for tourtoise machines if I want to in the future.

I have no experience with the Atlas machines so I cannot comment on their reliability but the switches themselves are good.

You can shorten the throw bars on the snap switches and drill your own holes as the throw bars are way too long. Also the throw bars are reversable which may help in some areas

Hello, can you show a close up photo of how much you shortened your throw bar. I have a throw bar on a wye that needs to be turned around to the other side. I fiddled with it before; trying to get it off but I was afraid I would break the turnout.

I have used these throws and I like the way they work. After the first 2 installs I feel I learned the thing you have to do to easily install them I like them so much that I have ordered more.

http://humpyard.com/

Ron High

Awesome throws Ron!

ROAR!

If you are willing to have a spider web of fishing line down where the sun doesn’t shine you can use all hand throws, even at preposterous distances. I use the fishing line to throw switches that only need to be operated from one place - even if the place is four feet from the points being moved.

My ground throw of choice is a cheap electrical slide switch, mounted in a niche in the fascia. Normally (points set to the preferred route) the handle of the slide switch is away from the aisleway and the points are held in place by a hanging weight - no tension on the line from points to slide switch. Pulling the slide switch toward the aisle tensions the line, raises the counterweight and moves the points to the ‘reverse’ position. Since the counterweight moves the points to the normal position there’s no need for a rigid connection - no pushing on a rope.

I connect my twin-coil KTM and Rix machines the same way, mounting them close to the aisle so I keep all of the electrical connections along the fascia. No spelunking under the table with a hot soldering tool…

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

http://humpyard.com/

Ron High … those are cool!!

Could you explain a bit … what you learned after doing the first two installs?

Jim sorry for the slow response I started to type my response but got distracted by other things .So here are some of my findings on installing these throws

I used a centered hole right under the rivet in the throw bar ½ inch in diameter?
I did one small yard with 8 switches using the center of the throw bar rivet this area was on standard 1 inch pine board all Shinohara switches purchased long before DCC was a dream I run a DC only layout. I mention this in case anyone asks I don’t think it would make a difference as far as how the throws work.
The method I used to mount the throws is 2 parallel pine boards 1 and ¼ inches apart.
I mounted these on wood brackets, with a slope extending out from the layout bench work, Think of a holder for a cab power pack assembly. When you mount these you should think about some #2 Brass washers under the #2 brass wood screws .I can’t recall if these are supplied or not .You need these to clamp the throws.
This method is like the mounting that would represent a row of Armstrong levers in a tower.
I located this whole assembly across from the yard near most of the switches. Six feet of throw cable made up of .026 stainless steel in a Teflon sleeve, this functions like choke rod cable but is much smaller. I used lengths from 1 and ½ feet to 3 feet long in this yard. For longer runs you may need a clamp near the throws and another, located one or two inches from the hole under the switch. The clamp is mounted perpendicular to the switch you are going to leave a small amount of Teflon, about ¼ inch. Beyond this clamp estim