Last night I threw a toggle to align a switch to run straight through, the Tortoise did its thing, but the train didn’t go straight. It turned. (Senator Schumer will be calling for a federal investigation if he gets wind of this, so please don’t tip him off!)
At first it appeared the Tortoise needed an adjustment. Perhaps somehow it was no longer able to reach far enough to throw the switch. Maybe some warping of the plywood, or that earthquake we had a couple weeks ago. But some deeper inquiry showed that the switch itself (Atlas Code 83) seemed to be sprung. But having no springs, that should be impossible. And yet, I could hand throw the switch points full travel only to have them spring back to the turn out position.
My sleuthing determined that the point rails were partially stuck. The culprit: my CMX Clean Machine!! My MOW Dept. used said machine filled with lacquer thinner. The liquid apparently seeped under the rails, melted the plastic ties and fused them to the movable point rails. Of all the switches on my layout, only that one seems to have been affected. And it is nowhere near the beginning of the usual run of the CMX.
My pike will soon be requesting proposals to replace its plastic ties with several thousand creosoted wood ties. Or maybe we will switch to Life-Like Track Cleaning Fluid.
I will repeat the question, why were you using Lacquer thinner? It is a Blend of Acetone and something else and the Acetone alone would destroy plastic.
Don’t ask me but they use it on the modular layout, although the CMX car is followed by not one but THREE Centerline cars with Handi-wipes to wipe off and dry the rails.
Since I don’t run anything with plastic wheels, it seems the only time I’ve ever had to really clean my track is after painting the rails, can’t help but get some on the tops. And that was in an unfinished basement with bare concrete walls and floors, and no drop ceiling - exposed joists and insualtion above. I’m not sure why people sometimes have such trouble keeping their track clean. Run more trains, maybe?
Immediately after laying a length of new track I gave it a full-blown GLEEM treatment.
The only track cleaning I’ve done since has been of two varieties:
An occasional (Very occasional!) swipe with a dry paper towel.
Run the wedge plow to clear the rails when they get fouled with sawdust and foam shavings from adjacent construction. (Usually followed by one pass of the mini-Shop Vac.)
I’ve never felt the urge, or had the need, to use any kind of liquid cleaner. Of course, I run trains almost every day, over almost every length of rail.
You ask, why lacquer thinner? Well, it was recommended on this forum at about the time I purchased the CMX. And it has been a very effective cleaner, but obviously I have not controlled the flow well enough. But rather than fight the issue, I’ll make the switch to alcohol. Guinness, maybe.
Just for the record, there is not a plastic wheel on my layout and hasn’t been for years. Also every inch of track has been GLEEMED (why caps?), but it still tends to get dirty. It resides in an unfinished basement with a dusty floor. I wipe black residue from the rails almost daily. I wonder if lacquer thinner adds to the problem even as it cleans. If alcohol improves the situation I will let you know.
Don’t take the responses personal. They’re just trying to help but sometimes the message typed doesn’t appear as it would if spoken.
At the same time sometimes recommendations typed aren’t the whole story. Acetone or similar products may be fine if applied with a cloth but not if in a cleaning car. If you did the gleam method, then you should only need a basic wipe now and then as long as your feeders are in order. Pick up some denatured alcohol. It will be all you’ll ever need. I personally only use 91% isopropyl and have no problems but many swear by the denatured. Also people tend to have more bad results with track cleaning products than with basic solutions. Over time you’ll learn what works best for you. This one is just a learning experience we all get. By the way how large is your layout? I ask because most layouts can be cleaned by hand with a lint free clot with the selected cleaning agent much faster than using a cleaning car.
The instructions which come with the CMX machine explicitly recommend lacquer thinner, with alcohol as an “acceptable” substitute.
I’ve used both, and I find the lacquer thinner works better. Properly adjusted, there’s hardly even any odor. (If you do smell it, you should check your drip rate.)
It’s easier to pull the car around with lacquer thinner, too. I think the alcohol just gives more friction. The additional friction also wears out the cleaning pad more rapidly.
I have a few grade crossings where I used styrene painted with gray acrylic to model the roadway between the rails. Alcohol takes the paint off when the CMX machine goes over, while lacquer thinner does not.
Yes, we’ve used NO-OX at our HO scale club. Big mistake. We had to run the CMX Clean Machine around filled with lacquer thinner to get the sticky stuff back off the rail. NO-OX seemed like a wonderful product at first, but it soon attracted dirt like the proverbial magnet. If you try NO-OX, apply it extremely sparingly and let the train distribute it throughout the layout.
And now, back to our original discussion: If the OP melted crossties with lacquer thinner, he was using way, way too much of it. Even if the CMX stalled over the turnout for some reason the valve should not have been opened enough for the lacquer thinner to drip onto the ties unless it was left there for a considerable length of time. Like the old Brylcream commercial said, A Little Dab 'L Do Ya.
It’s CRC 2-26 and cab be bought at Home Depot and probably Lowes. . I talked to a couple of members of this local club and they swear by it. They also talk about it on their forum.
My layout is roughly 20’ x 22’ with about 300 feet of track. Sometimes I do clean it by hand, using an old white Tee-shirt. At various times I use lacquer thinner, alcohol, Life-Like cleaning fluid or just a dry cloth. Other times I would rather run a train. That’s when the CMX car pushed by a pair of Atlas RS-1s goes into action. BTW, the gleaming really did improve operations even though the track still needs periodic cleaning. Engines that used to be hesitant now run smoothly with nary a flicker of the headlight. The only hitch now seems to be short wheelbase locos on insulfrog switches. That problem is being addressed with frog juicers or in some places electrofrogs.