Tackling small space... modules?

I posted here a while back when I was planning an eventual layout in HO scale. I’ve since switched to N so that at some point, even if I get larger space, I can enlarge the trackage area instead of enlarging the scale. The more tack, the better I say!

I am actually working to replicate a prototype, but with some considerable license in the equipment. It’s a narrow-gauge line that ran G8’s and NF-210’s of which there are no models I know of. I could use Z track and modify all the stuff, but instead I’ve opted to go with Gp-7’s and 9’s as a “hybrid” of the two locos, and to use standard code 80 track. In terms of replicating the “feel” of the now-lost prototype, unrealistic track actually looks more realistic. Strange but true.

Anyway, what’s drawing me into this hobby is the actual modelling. Structures, scenery, etc. I’m looking to capture a specific time and place (Newfoundland’s CN line, 1982). Because of this, I’m most anxious to begin work on scenery, etc. I’m also hampered by an extreme lack of space (yes, even in N). I’m also not permitted to erect any shelving, etc. because I’m not to modify the walls and such. lol. I also don’t have space for a shelf-like table at a lower height. Thoughts of rickety, free-standing shelves on stilts scare me. Especially with a rather aerobic cat.

So in order to have an actual running train, I’d pretty much have to go with some kind of loop design… which is pretty lame and far from realistic.

But I’ve discovered something that seems interesting. Woodland Scenic’s module kits look like they have potential. I’m thinking I could take a module kit, build it up to realistic completion, then move onto the next. It’d be a long time before I actually ran anything (though I’d test the track and electrics for fucntionality), but it would kind of be like modelling a “snapshot” of a particular place, then eventually bolting the “snapshots” together to form a layout later.

This would allow me to dive ri

i’ve never actually seen one built but i guess they’re ok . lack of flexibility in the track plan would be the big drawback for creating a model of a specific prototype . you could build a modular layout yourself , it would be more work , less expensive , and use your own custom design for the trackplan and i think you’d have a more realistic and satisfying layout

WS Modules work if you have money to burn. They are expensive, but come out of the box ready to assemble, although they have no legs.

For the cost of one module (about 150 bucks list + 50 for legs) I filled an entire room with modular benchwork, made from 1x4s and later 3/4 plywood.

Nick

The beauty of this prototype is that’s pretty much one single mainline all across. You get a few spurs, junctions, and yards here and there but it’s mostly just one long line. It was built with steep grades and sharp turns, so ran short stock and light trains.

I think for most of it I can even get away with just using snaptrack. There’ll be a few spots where turnouts and yards will be an issue, but with the size of the module kits and N scale I figure a mostly single-line run trackplan would work no problem. At 36" x 36" for the largest module kit, it’s a fair bit of space to work with. If I need more space or some odd shapes I could probably modify the module kit.

Using the same base kit for all of it also makes sure it’ll all match up in height when the time comes to bring it together. That’s my thinking on it so far, anyway.

Yeah, they aren’t cheap. I suspect a move or three is in the offing, though, so the expense might be mitigated by ease of disassembly, transport, and re-assembly later.

Plus, devoting effort to one module at a time will stretch the cost over a considerable period of time so even though it might be upwards of $200, that $200 might represent 5-6 months of hobby time. And it’s still cheaper in the long run than my former hobby of plastic static kits.

I don’t use the WS module kits, but do use a sectional/modular approach–I build each module in turn as the previous one nears completion. Right now I have three modules: one 100% done, one 80% done, and one 20% done (okay, so Iike operation even if the scenery isn’t done yet!)

One thing to keep in mind is that each module or vignette can be an operating unit in its own right. By viewing each module as you do, as a “snapshot” of a particular place, you can make each module useful and operation-oriented. As you expand and have more space you can add modules that are just mainline running through scenery (or you can do one of those when you want to do something cheap and simple.)

I design my sectional units to be transportable (not exactly portable, but I could move them without too much heartache) and relatively lightweight–5/8" MDF over a 1x2 frame with foamcore and foam insulation scenery.

My modules are operational units–the yard needs to be connected to another module to be useful (there isn’t room for a “lead”) but it is its own operational unit other than that, and my industry module would work just fine as a free-standing mini layout. The third module would technically work as an “Inglenook” switching puzzle but it’s really just a single large industry.

Thanks for the replies and the input. It seems like it’s a pretty good idea, but I think I’ll draw up a complete list of requirements, goals, etc. that I want the eventual layout to include and then decide on the route to take. In the meantime I can always build structures, paint equipment, and study pictures. Research is half the fun!

If you have the ablilty or tools, you can build modules from 1x pine or ripped down 3/4" plywood. I did that more then 10 years ago. Those same modules are on thier forth layout and second home.

Nick

Sound concept, execution is up to you. Size and shape of each module would be a factor of weight and eventual transportability. The modules could be individual dioramas of the vinetes you want to model. Each diorama could be operational individually or in conjunction with an adjoining module. Later the modules could be seperated by longer mainline runs as space allows. There are any number of ways to approach the modules, from framed construction to hollow core doors, either incorporating extruded foam from base to scenery to keep the weight down to a managable level.
Get the feline a toy mouse and a cat condo to keep her she it occupied elsewhere. Living with six curiousity critters on paws can present some challenges to we the few, the dedicated!
Your imagination is the key to coming up with the plan, then it is a matter of the first step. Good luck with the “empire to be”.
Will

If ease of movement is important, I’d advise you look at building your own modules - with careful design you can build modules that will bolt together (making a solid box with the scenery inside) for transport, you just have a couple of frames that bolt to the ends and hold the modules together. From what I’ve seen of the WS ones they don’t have such a system, and they are expensive compared to making your own.

I am trying to figure out a good system, and think I have found the answer. We are a military family that does a lot of moving so I need something to meet that flexibility. I found inspiration from this person’s work on the link below. I figured that if I can design a lid to latch over each module, that will give the movers less chance of killing it. Thsi guy did some awesome stuff in the little space that he has.

http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Ranch/1916/train.lay1.html

Thanks for the tips!

The WS modurail system does bolt to each other, and comes with the plates and bolts for one connection with each kit.

The LHS can actually get these at a pretty reasonable price if you consider the amount of scenery material each comes with, and WS offers a free module after you buy five. (like a coffee card? lol).

I like the WS concept, especially since I don’t have tools or a workshop area for any mount of woodworking. I’d have to be pretty sneaky about erecting/sawing/drilling any wood because of apartment rules. That’s what originally appealed to me about their module kits.

I’m also thinking they might lend themselves to easier modification if I decide to alter some scenery. Being mostly foam and paper wads might make adjustments fairly quick and easy.

I could probably save a ton if I went with wood and tried some of the do-it-yourself scenery techniques (amazing techniques!) I’ve seen on here… but I’m probably going to lose most of my time modifying and repainting a lot of the equipment for the layout. Every loco has to be re-done, as there is no suitable N scale version in the 1980’s CN schemes. Actually, anything beyond boxcars, ore cars, and cabooses will have to be repainted. WS is expensive, but it looks like it might be easier scenery stuff to work with for results, freeing up time to build stuff.

Hard to say at this stage whether it’ll be WS module kits or not, but I’m definitely going to go with the modular concept. Already got a nice scene picked out to do.

I appreciate your advice and opinions, thanks!

You could of just stuck with Z if your budget allowed AZL… Well just check this out http://www.ztrack.com/
http://www.ztrack.com/mrtsbcatpgs/amerzlines.html
http://www.marklin.com/scales/z/products-am.html