I started last night taking apart 2 Lionel 4-4-2 engines that are about 87 or newer with the DC can motors. I haven’t taken apart the drive chassis though. I’m going to make a 4-8-2 but am considering a 4-10-2 or 4-12-2. I don’t know but the last 2 might be too big for 042 curves I have in some parts of the layout. Whatever I build the inner most wheels will have their flanges removed. When you take apart one of these drive chassis are there bearings or brass bushings on the axle? I have considered starting from scratch building a new frame so I can have all of the drive wheels spaced closer together. Possible scenarios:
Connect together two 4-4-2 drive chassis via the frames bolted together. A gear added between the frames to keep the drive wheels and rods timed.
A new frame with the drive wheels much closer together. I might even set it up with 2 can motors.
I don’t have a puller to pull the wheels. But I do have a small hobby vise. Is there a way to get the wheels off without a small puller? I have automotive gear pullers and a slide hammer but I’m unsure if it could be done with them. I will be using the cut up steam engine shells to make the body. I already have a stretched tender built.
For a gear puller or wheel remover I bought a small gear remover at Pep Boys Auto center, when I did some wheel removal on my Williams engines(F-7’s). Another tool that may work is an older style battery terminal puller for top mounted terminals.
A word about wheel flange grinding, do it with a bench grinder or it will take hours to do, as I just ground down some Williams wheels to use with my SD-45 diesels. I wanted metal wheels but Williams by Bachmann don’t sell them, so I made my own from left over wheels from a power upgrade kit from an F-7 diesel.
I found some 3/4" thick aluminum stock and built a connector between the two frames. I haven’t removed any wheels or flanges yet. One chassis was missing the first gear and its holder that is down from the motor. I found the same part on a little Lionel 4 wheel switcher chassis and swapped it over easily. This engine might be looking like a Frankensteamer when done. If it has trouble with curves after I remove the center flanges I will backup and start with a home made frame with the wheels spaced closer together. I still can’t tell for sure if there are bearings on the drive axles.