http://www.railpictures.net/viewphoto.php?id=78182
Is this enough? Or maybe just a little much?
http://www.railpictures.net/viewphoto.php?id=78182
Is this enough? Or maybe just a little much?
If you want to compare to the prototype, it appears to be just a bit too much. The angle of the shot may make it difficult to determine exactly though.
This is superelevation shimming w/ .020


Here’s the real thing at 1:1


Too much superelevation used in the model not only can look funny but the transitions in track laying can be difficult and done poorly can cause problems.
Looks fine to me, but the switcher does appear to be leaning to the outside of the curve. Maybe it is the angle of the picture. The prototype bases super elevation on track speed of the curve, whether there is a station on the curve, etc. In 1/87 a little exaggeration may be necessary for emphasis of the super elevation. At a station you don’t want too much or the passengers will have to step high in order to board the local. No step stools on the local![:-,]
The B&O pass is on the main w/ the superelevation. The B&M switcher/ milk train is on the industry siding to the creamery. This siding was purposly shimmed for minor lumps and bumps, handlaid ties stained very weathered and a bit overgrown between the rails.
If you scale down the prototype it isn’t worth doing. I superelevated all curves on my last layout to my liking. It adds an important piece of realism watching that engine lean into the curves. Experiment and do what pleases you, but DO IT.
Two rules I use. Number ONE always use spiral easements into the curve as the prototype does. Number TWO is very important. Start the superelevation on the tangent not in the easement or the curve. You don’t want too much change going on all in one place.
Very nice shot! I am in HO and love big curves and turnouts. I have a 72"r. 45 degree curve with easements and superelevation. On a foam deck I install my cork flat with white glue. When I bend the flex to follow the centerline I mark the outside of the ties, and since I use grey paintable caulk to set my track, I set a 1/16" square strip of balsa flush with the outer edge of the ties, tapering it down to “0” over the length of the easement with sandpaper. This may seem like a lot of elevation, but remember, it is over the length of the ties! The actual superelevation at rail to rail is 6" or less! It looks beautiful and I have yet, knock wood, to experience a stringline. jc5729 John Colley, Port Townsend, WA
I have a lot of modern RR DVD’d and I constantly amazed at the degree of superelevation in prototype. However as I found out, having the same amount would practically send the front truck of the loco above the rail. So I think moderation is the key.
I commuted to school on the old DL&W MU coaches, and one of the stations was on a fairly sharp curve. I was amazed at the amount of superelevation, and we always felt like we were hanging sideways when we stopped there. The angle looked more like the photo of the Southern freight.
Here’s a little bit on a prototype.