does anyone use these paints? I got a small bottle of their flat white for painting handrails, and I went to use it for the first time the other night. I shook it up, but when i painted it onto the handrail, it was like… gobby. and then it began drying VERY fast, which was cool, but when I tried to spread it more, it would like… ‘string’ up and get gobby and didn’t spread very well. there would be like, thicker gobs ont he handrail in some places and then other places it was regular… there was no way to even it out in time, or else it would dry and get tacky and stick to the brush in strings…
Maybe old paint,try thinning with thinner.I’ve never used tamiya ,so I dont know if its water based or solvent.Then I wanna borrow the car…
IIRC, Tamiya is an acrylic. Sounds like you have an old pot. Try stirring the dickens out of it and mash up all the lumps. A little bit of acrylic thinner may help but don’t use too much. Or you could bin it and get another one…[;)]
Ive used that stuff for several decades.
Now number one problem They are old. When it gets “Gobby” and dries faster than you can paint, it’s too old. Throw it away and get another one.
What you can try is to get a wood stick about .25 inches thick and stir it. Get down into the bottom of the bottle and scrape it all clean as you stir it. Break it up and keep stirring until you feel nothing but glass bottom. If you MUST, squirt a tiny, I mean TINY amount of water or windex down in there while stirring.
If the paint refuses to become liquid in that bottle, throw it away.
When you open a fresh NEW bottle, there ought to be a slight odor and a good brush will paint the color on (AFTER stirring not shaking the paint) and within about 20 minutes stop painting and cap the bottle. Dont try to cover and recover a first coat with more paint. Let it dry a few hours.
Store the paint upside down with the cap on TIGHTLY. That adds a few more months of shelf life to the paint in the bottle.
Clean your brush after about 20 minutes of painting, becuase no matter what you do with it, that paint will dry on that brush starting deep and turning into a solid while you add more and more thicker coats of paint onto that brush in a futile effort to stay ahead of the drying.
That is probably the finest paint for drying without brush strokes with water clean up that I know of. You can paint with steel wool and it will settle right down flat onto any plastic surface without marks in a hour. (I know, Im half jesting but you get point)
But it drys FAST. And best with small areas at a time. I paint in 15 minute blocks of time with one hour dry minimum, overnight best between areas until its complete.
One word of caution.
Oh, one more thing. Paint when Humidity is higher than 60% wherever you may be.
Trying to paint in the gila desert at 10% humidty with tamiya paint is a zero sum race to futility.
haha THANK YOU.
it was weird, because the paint DID dry perfectly flat onto the handrail ends. Do you think it would be worthwhile take it back to the store and ask for a new one? But I’m guessing that that would be futile, since the stuff all probably came in at the same time.
but i’lld efinitely try STIRRING it andnot shaking, whichi s what I usually just do with no problems. I did the other side of the front handrail yesterday and haven’t checked it since, so we’ll see how that went.
What about actually DIPPING the handrail into the paint? Do you think that would work at all?
Dipping a paint bottle with the part to be painted. **Blinks.
Hm. Isnt that a bit extreme? In all my years I not think of that.
For me, when I use a large brush with tamiya, I load up the one side and brush off excess from the other. I paint until the brush get dry, flip it over and finish the target.
The biggest thing I think of with Tamiyas is washing the plastic with mild dish soap and warm water to get the oils off and airdrying before painting is the number one way to get that paint to “Stick, spread and stay” while drying on one coat.