Guy,
I’m looking here soon to start airbrushing. I will be practicing on some old engines of mine before I hit the good ones. What kind of tape should I use to mask of for my lines? I’ve seen 3M Blue Masking Tape be used, is that a good tape to use or should I look for something better? What kind has everyone else used, and like and/or don’t recommend?
Thanks,
Zak
I’ve used whatever I have on hand, even electrical tape. The tape I use most often is regular masking tape. Don’t use the cheap stuff! It has the adhesive in little dots and the paint runs between these, ruining your hard work. Get the more expensive masking tape and you won’t go wrong on most projects. #2 for me is the blue painters tape. For areas that have a lot of raised detail, I use good Scotch tape. I press it down over and between details with a dulled toothpick. A wood matchstick works too.
There are many things you can use the above is just my two cents. If you look at pics of my layout, you’ll see what success I.ve had with them.
I use Tamiya model masking tape, sold in better hobby shops catering to plastic modellers. Wonderful stuff.
i use the tan masking tape and mask in douple layers …another couple of tricks are to paint a thin layer of paint and let it dry before painting with heavier coats of paint…this will seal the tape to the model and narrow the risk of having the heavier coats of paint bleeding under the tape…another little handy way to cut the tape is to tape it to a sheet of glass and cut it with a hobby knife for those small places that need masking before painting…chuck
I use the 3M Blue tape, put it on glass first to cut strips. It holds well enough so when removing the tape it doesnt pull up the paint as usually happens on a brass model from regular masking tape…
I use 3/4 inch regular masking tape. It seems to do a very good job, and doesn’t let any paint go where it shouldn’t.[:D] Just be sure to wait two or three days for the paint to dry before doing the next color. I didn’t wait that long and had to repaint the smokebox on my Challenger.[:O]
The Tamiya tape comes in several widths in easy to use dispensers. It’s worth the price.
It is usually good practice to gently but firmly buff down the edges of the tape with a smooth rounded tool like the back end of a posh pencil. This stops paint infiltrating under the tape… which produces a horrible mess on the paint you are supposed to be masking.
The Tamiya tape doesn’t need a lot of buffing.
One thing I use it for is masking lettering on cars when weathering… when removed it makes the lettering look like it has been recently re-applied. A variant to a “patch job”.
When I was spray painting I used Scotch tape, the transparent type, also called magic tape. It has good adhesion, but not to strong to lift paint. The tape seals well to the car surface and minimizes paint creep under the tape.
Regular masking tape doesn’t give you the fine sharp edge you want for scale models. Paint tends to bleed under the edge and if the adhesive is strong, it can peal up a layer of paint you are trying to protect. Check out hobby shops that sell tape for masking model cars or airplanes.
I use 1/8" & 1/4" vinyl tape, found at auto body paint supply shops, for masking the edge and then overlaping it with good quality 1/2" masking tape (for automotive painting) and overlaping that with bleed proof paper for to cover the rest of the model.
I should add that burnishing the tape edge assures a good seal.
Tamiya !! The best masking tape !!
I’ll join the Tamiya vote as the different widths make masking awkward shapes easy and the dispensers mean you don’t have to keep looking for a knife! Like the others say, make sure the first layer is dry first or you’ll have to start again. Use paper, cut or torn to shape, to mask big areas and just use tape round the edges to save money.
I’ve used Tamiya masking tape for years. It is the only type of tape I’ve used that will give you that crisp edge look and it will not pull off fresh paint. I’ve built model cars for over 30 years and have probably tried everything you can try. Believe me, model masking tape is what you want to use. Don’t waste your time or money on anything else.
The key isn’t in the type of tape. It is how well you seal it to the body. When I do diesels as an example I take the back side of an Exacto knife and press the tape tight around doors and latchs. This prevents any gaps and prevents paint from running under the tape. Another key is to not try to apply a long piece of tape. tear it in one or two inch long pieces and overlap. They are much easier to keep straight rather than one long piece. Another trick is to cut a piece 1/4" wide for the straight edge of a long run and then overlap additional tape onto it where you don’t want paint. Finally when you remove the tape pull it off at an angle close to the body bending it over itself as close to 180 degrees as you can. That way there is less chance of pulling off paint where you want it to stay. I have always used ordinary masking tape. After all it is called “masking” tape and have never had a problem. just don;t leave it on for more than a couple of days as it can be hard to remove when the adhesive drys out.
one final hint. After masking, paint the shell with a light coat of the original color This will seal the edges of the tape and almost always prevent any bleed through on the tape edges.
Randy
This is 3M fineline tape if you are asking for it. Once you use this you will wonder how you got away w/ drafting or reg. masking tape. A good hint: store the roll in it’s plastic bag and slip it into a ziploc. Don’t ever lay the roll down on any suface that may contaminate the side w/ workbench crap/dirt. The paint parting lines are unbelievable, crisp and no creep. Should give it a try.
Bob K.
The 3M fine line series of tape is a very good choice. Clean, sharp edge and can even be curved to figure “8” patterns.
Can’t be stressed enough: Make sure it does not get dirty! As mentioned by Robert, storing it in a bag is a great idea. Once you lay the roll down on a dirty surface, forget it! Dirt, debris, and dust sticks to the sides like a magnet.
Some years back when I was helping to mask a car (prototype!!) to paint custom stripes, I dropped the roll on the shop’s concrete floor. I picked it up, wiped the sides and continued to mask with it. After the paint was applied, I saw an area of the new stripes where the paint bled through. It was the very area where I continued masking with the roll I had dropped! OUCH! Lesson learned!
During masking operations, make sure that the table that you are working on is clean when you have to put the roll down temporarily.
Point well taken. I will for sure remember to bag mine.
One other point to make about using the 3M tape, since it is vinyl you can lightly burni***he edge use wood, styrene or flat fingernail. I have even masked over latches/ hindges and burnished the tape to the small contours of the details. Chessie yellow to blue would show any discrepancy without a doubt. You will love this stuff.
If cutting smaller strips, lay on clean glass and cut w/ new razor blade. I lay it down on the storage bag during use.
Bob K.
Drive to the nearest auto parts store and buy some 3M fineline automotive masking tape like the professional auto body man uses. As a bonus it’s less expensive than the tiny little “hobby” rolls sold at hobby stores. As stated above, great stuff and comes in various widths. Fred
Fred, thanks for adding where to buy it. I read through the posts and while we praised the benefits of the 3M tape, neglegted to tell where to find it.
Bob K.