Hello everyone , this weekend I finally got enough courage to start dismantle. I am going to have an around the walls 12 by 22 ft. with at least one peninsula. Ill try to post pictures of the progress. It was weird once I ripped up that first piece it was like all the reluctance went away. I am trying to salvage as much as I can for economic reasons. My question is should I trey to salvage old track? I definitely dont want any future problems. Most of what I have is sectional. Its not coming up too easy. Breaking ties and etc. Let me know what you all think not just the track but other items. Thanks Dave
I did that once in HO scale years ago (in the '70s, and when I reused the flextrack, I did have some trouble keeping the rails spaced when ties were broken (if more than 1 or 2 in proximity). I cut off bad sections and was able to salvage and reuse what wasn’t badly damaged. Try to take it off without twisting, etc. I’d keep the track gauge tool handy.
Other opinions may vary. [:)]
My old N scale sectional track (glued down) wasn’t really salvageable. It wound up being twisted and bent and out of guage and caused more problems trying to reuse it. I bought all new Nscale track for new use. (not a permenant layout yet)
For my new HO layout (never had one before), Im trying the latex caulk method to hold down track. That is supposed to be easier to rip up and reuse.
Around the tree, I just let the track float free on the board on which the tree sits. This year I am debating about making the board permenant. Haven’t decided yet how I will attach the track.
Good luck for whatever you decide.
We’ve moved several times over the years and started a new layout in each location. Salvaged some of the track, but mainly the buildings. They seemed to make it through the moves okay, and while each layout was different, reusing old structures keeps some memories around.
How is the track put down? Patience is a very strong virtue when taking up old track. If ties are getting broken I am guessing there is some degree of hurry involved.
The trick in salvaging old track is to avoid twisting or kinking it. Depending on how it was anchored to the old roadbed, and what the roadbed was made of, it might be easy to lift, require extra care or be totally unuseable. Flex laid with latex caulk on extruded foam will lift nicely, using a drywall knife as a friendly persuader. OTOH, some flex I glued to EXT-DFPA plywood with construction adhesive would have required dynamite! [I cut my losses, and the spikeheads (with a utility knife) and salvaged the rails. I also swore a mighty oath not to do THAT again!!!]
You might also consider salvaging sections of roadbed complete - easy if you’ve built on cookie-cut plywood, harder if a flat tabletop.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with re-lay flex track until I run out)
Thanks all for the replys. Most of the track was nailed to plywood on top of WS foam roadbed. therefore its not letting go easily. I might just spring for new since I am going to salvage most of my structures ond trees. Dave
I’ve just gone through this myself. Track was laid on cork or foam using latex caulk and by and large has come up just fine. It was Peco Code 100 flex and turnouts; perhaps the heavier rail helps keep things in gauge as it’s less likely to kink or twist? Just a theory.
I’m planning to use the old track for hidden staging on the new layout, and will buy new Code 83 and Code 70 stuff for the visible trackwork.
Chris
I’d suggest salvaging the rail, even if the ties are left behind. Even sectional track with nickel silver rail has contributed raw material for my hand-laid specialwork. Rail also has a lot of scenic uses, from wheel stops in parking lots to lengths of new welded rail (or much shorter lengths of old jointed rail) along right of way being upgraded.
As for hand-laying specialwork - it isn’t rocket science, and having otherwise-useless rail to practice on will help to reduce the grade of the learning curve. It’s also a good way to save some serious money.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on flex and hand-laid specialwork)
Thanks everyone for the suggestions, I think I will salvage most of it. I should finish tear down today and will probably start on bench work next week. Dave
I learned today that tearing down an old layout can be almost as hard as building one. It makes a huge mess also. I finally gave up and just let the old fine turf and such just hit the where it may. I have my stuff boxed and labeled. Now for the big cleanup. Thanks all Dave
You said the track was mostly sectional – is it Code 100? If so, I recommend trashing it and moving to Code 83. Looks so much nicer!
Why not at least try and save the track, there are lots of MR’s out there that will utilize the older track, or donate to some up and coming MRer, let people know this is available and it will be used.
I found out last winter when I was tearing down my layout, that if you drip some alcohol on the track after you pull the spikes, it softens up the adhesive, then you can peel them up much easier. After I got all the track up, I used my wife wall paper soaking tub and soaked all the track including my flex in it with alcohol and everything that didn’t need to be on the ties and rails fell off. This took some time, but doing a new layout I wanted to salvage as much as possible.
Consider using flextrack on your new layout. You will be happier with the result in the long run and it will have fewer problems just because of fewer rail joints.