figuring out my track and what I need and how much. I noticed on some pro plans and remembering from my earlier attempts at Model RR that terminal tracks are called for. But I belive I had seen where some people dont use them any opinions.( I am sure theres at least a million lol) Those that dont use them is that because they dont like the look of manufactured terminal tracks ex. atlas. The other question is how many sections throughout the layout or how many spots do I need to solder main bus wire< using DCC> layout will be L shapish largest section being approx 4 x 8 with a leg out being aprox 4 x 6 or possible 4 x 8. also having a turntable that I plan on running with standard old school dc power. Could I run my turn-out switches with dc as well?? Looking forward to some response.
Terminal tacks were made for “plug-and-play” layouts. When you purchased a train set you usually got an oval of track and one of the pieces was terminal track that you connected to the power pack (transformer). If you were going to divide layout into multiple electrical blocks, you would need at least one terminal track per electrical block.
I use flex track in my layout and soder two 3’ sections together with a 18 guage jumper wire. I do not soder the other end, but use rail joiners. My locomotive is never more than three feet from a jumper. The jumper wires are connected to a 12 guage buss which runs under the layout. I use Digitrax DCC. I connect my jumpers to the buss with “suit case connectors”. Some people do not like suit case connectors, but I have never had trouble with them.
It works for me.
Jim
jamnest, what are you calling a ‘‘suitcase connector’’?
Mike
A suitcase connector allows you to 3rd leg. Your main bus wire passes thru the connector that is hinged and your feeder terminates on the other side. You simply close the connector like a suitcase and there you have it .One is made by the Scotch Co. I’m sure there are others.
I solder feeders directly to the rail, every 6 feet or so (usually every other section of flex track). I prefer soldering them, because it’s easier to drop a feeder where ever you need one, and I don’t have to worry about buying terminal joiners.
You should have a seperate power source for your turnout motors. You didn’t mention what kind of motors you are using. Stall motors (like Tortise) require DC. Twin Coil motors (like Atlas and Peco) can use either DC or AC. I run my Atlas machines, using Bi-Polar DC (positive - negative - ground). I also use the same supply to run my panel lights, trackside signals, and building lights.
Nick
And I make my own terminal joiners by soldering a length of feeder wire to a rail joiner. It’s a lot easier to solder on the bench than it is to solder on the layout. Then I drop the feeder wire through a small hole in the layout and connect it to the bus underneath. I generally solder my feeder-to-bus connections.
I didn’t know they made terminal track except for train sets, but anyway I solder feeder wires to the bottom of rail joiners and drop them through a hold drilled between the tracks. The track ballast hides them completely. They connect to a bus wire under the table, using suitcase connectors. I have also used the gel-filled connectors used by telephone installers, which are really good for smaller wires. I probably have close to fifty feeders on my 10’x11’ around the wall layout. The roundhouse alone as 12 feeders [one for each track around the turntable]. Bachmann used to make a terminal track in a rerailer with an under-track flat plug that was less noticeable than the screw terminals. Is it still available?
I solder feeder wires directly to the rails. It can’t go wrong unless you just do a bad job of it.
I’d love to see a closeup picture of how you do this. I’m going to be starting a new layout soon and would like to know the steps to soldering my leads directly to my track.
Thanks.
Yes, soldering feeder wires is more prototypical only in that terminal tracks aren’t. My plan (no, I haven’t started yet either) is to solder feeders to every section of flextrack, as I do not plan on soldering my feeders on straightaways (expansion/contraction concerns–see other threads–not everyone agrees that this is a concern–temparature/humidity fluctuations, what your subroadbed is (i.e. plywood vs. foam) determine whether this is an issue; in Ohio where I am I think this may be an issue, even though I am going to attempt temparature and humidity controls as much as possible) but only solder the joiners on curves. It’s been mentioned on other threads that from a resistance/voltage drop-off issue, you should have a feeder at least every 10 feet (for Code 100) or every 6 feet (for Code 83).
Jim
You should probably get a good book on model railroad wiring (Walthers has at least one) … you’ll have LOTS of questions, sooner or later, and at least browsing thru one now might keep you from doing something that will cause trouble later (like having to add gaps after, instead of while, tracklaying)!
Another good source is http://www.wiringfordcc.com/
Being a contrarian by nature, I find that gaps are easy to add after the track is laid - it is the feeders that are difficult after the fact.
Gaps can be easily cut any time using a track saw or Dremel cut-off disk. Insert a piece of plastic into the gap, and some epoxy or CA cement. Come back when the cement is dry and file the plastic to match the rail. Done, end of story.
I find it easiest to install feeders while I’m laying the track. I solder the feeders onto the bottom of my rails; others solder the feeders onto rail joiners. Personally, I put feeders on every rail section, as I don’t use rail joiners with hand-laid track. But even when I am using rail joiners with flex or sectional track, I still put plenty of feeders in just in case they are needed later. The extra feeders don’t have to be hooked up to the bus wires unless there is a reason - I just leave the extras dangle under the layout.
Adding feeders after the fact is difficult for a klutz like me without affecting/melting and having to redo sections of track, so I put the feeders in in advance. Since gaps can be easily cut any time, I leave those until they are needed. I hate unnecessary rework.
yours in track laying
Fred W
in foggy coastal Oregon where it is always 1900…