Hi there,
Was at the mall this evening and picked up a decal kit made by Testors. The price was right so I thought I would give it a try. Here’s what I found: The kit is very basic and comes with decal paper, a spray bomb of “Decal Bonder” and the related software. After loading you will have an assortment of ready made decals to choose from. Included were aircraft logos, various automotive graphics and licence plates. Colours could be changed and text modified as needed. There was not a whole lot to choose from on the disc, but then again what do you want for 12 bucks? As I said the price was right. An upgrade is available for another $14.95 US through www.decalgear.com. The upgrade would allow for complete custom decals to be made should you choose to go that route. For me I think I will just use the Paint Pro software I already have and print on the decal paper. Even if you don’t use the software in the kit, it is a good price for everything else in there. Hopefully this will be of some use to you all in your pursuit of Large Scale Scratchbuilding and Kitbashing. Most of us have devised our own roadnames so this could be very handy. Gonna’ give it a try very soon so I’ll let you know of the results. Later eh…Brian.
[tup]
Let me know more about this. I have been peppering decal places on the web with e-mails to make my custom “N&M” railway. How “amature friendly” are these things?
Capt. C,
So far it looks pretty easy. Ever use “Word Pro” on your computer? You can make neat signs just using that. Really, any program that will allow you to draw a picture or print text will work. The real secret is in the decal paper. It is basically the same stuff that comes in model kits. Once you have created a picture on your screen test it on plain paper. If it looks good then put in the decal paper. Reprint. Let it dry. Then spray a light coat of decal bonder over your new decal. This will keep the ink from running when you soak the decal in water. Once you have applied the decal to your item and it’s dry then coat with the clear of your choice. Usually it will be dullcoat so there is no glare. That’s basically it! Not very hard…try messing around with just text on your computer and then go from there. Any other questions…let me know. Later eh…Brian.
Let me know more about this. I have been peppering decal places on the web with e-mails to make my custom “N&M” railway. How “amature friendly” are these things?
Could one get this at Hobby Lobby or Wal*Mart? I would like to give it a try.
[quote]
Originally posted by bman36
Hi there,
Most of us have devised our own roadnames so this could be very handy. Gonna’ give it a try very soon so I’ll let you know of the results. Later eh…Brian.
[tup]
/quote
Hi
I think it would be fair coment to say some have also desined totems for their lines as well, or like me been helped to design a totem for their line mus get that tidied up one day when I know how too[:)].
regards John
Capt. C,
Yes they are available at WalMart. Mine was out of stock. Hobby Lobby as well. Bought a new HP printer today since my Canon calfed another print head. A new printer was nearly the same price as the Canon print head. Go figure. John: Very true. I too have created my own logo if you will. I’m not that great with the Paint Shop Pro yet. I find it hard to use since I have no idea what all the symbols mean. Also if I goof how do I go back a step etc. For me if I have to clean something up, I usually just do another. Was at the local hobby shop today picking up some paint for my Shay. Boy some of the latest in HO is extremely impressive. Very comparable to brass. Glad we can swap our ideas here and step our projects up a notch. Later eh…Brian.
hi Brian
I just have too tidy up my totem but dont know how.
Had a bit of luck some one put up one of the signs I liked from one of the websites I was given to check out., on a news group I belong to.
I asked how to change the railway name at the top and ended up geting sent one
already done.
So all I have to do is try and find a size that tooks right and where it is still readable
and I will be able to keep “G” scale undesirables off my stations.
Perhaps I should get the figures to go with the sign and have the law removing an undesirable element as a mini scene what do you think.
regards John
Hi John,
I can see the scene in my head. A cruiser car parked crooked off to one side responding to the nuisance. A few bystanders watching to see the outcome. Could be very interesting. Just think all this from a discussion on decals. Later eh…Brian.
I bought one of those kits, I hope to try it out. I didn’t see any sort of “refill” supplies though. Do they sell the decal paper on its own? If so, where can I go for the best chance of getting it?
Thanks,
Capt. C.,
WalMart here had refills on the decal paper. Have not had time to try mine out yet. Hope to this weekend. Too busy with work and heading out here and there. Let me know if you get a chance to print something. My new printer works great (2nd one). Colour is awesome. Decals should look good. Later eh…Brian.
brian can you explain alittle bit more on wordpro i have window 98 can i use notebook or notepad what ever its called how do you draw on wordpro
jmozz
jmozz,
Word Pro is meant to be used for text only. It is not intended for drawing. It does however have templates for different styles of text used in creating logos. For instance you could choose a template and type in “GARDEN RAILWAYS”. Depending on which template you chose the words would appear bold, or curved, look 3D, have different colours from top to bottom etc. Hope this makes sense. It is great for creating a store front sign but that is it. If you want to draw try Paint Shop Pro. I think there may be a free version of this. If not then go to www.decalgear.com and order their decal software. It’s not very expensive. Hope this helps. Later eh…Brian.
Hey All,
OK so I made my first decals. So far they look great. The printer did an exellent job with the decal paper. I made lettering for my Shay this time round. At this point they are printed and sealed with the enclosed decal spray. Need to wait a few days before I put them on since the paint I just sprayed needs a few days first. Plan on spraying over them with Testors Dullcote after they are applied. Will take some pics later when I am done. Later eh…Brian.
What color (colour?) did you print the text? Yellow or black on white?
Capt. C.,
I went the unconventional route. Since a printer cannot print white, I went with all colour. Kinda’ flashy for a railroad but I think it looks good. I’ll send you a pic. when they are on the loco. Seeing them should help answer any questions. Later eh…Brian.
Hey All,
Well the tender from my Shay is now decalled. Not happy with the results. Could be the decal paper but it turned hazy underneath when it dried. Tried decal softening solution and waiting on the results. You can clearly see the outline of the decal and this really bugs me. Trimmed it very close yet it looks “thick” to me. I really don’t want to repaint the tender so hoping for the best. Will let you know how this all turns out. Details details I tell ya. Maybe I’ll weather the daylights out of it. Back to the drawing board. Later eh…Brian.
Was the paint flat or gloss. Hazing often happens on flat paint. Military modelers often spray or even brush on a thin coat of Future (the never recommend any other brand) floor wax on the area they are decaling. Then follow with a clear coat (flat or gloss) depending on the fini***hey want.
The following is fromthe Greatmodel’s Newsletter They are an online store that sells plastic and Resin model kits. They are not a train store, but do sell many mode kits that could be used on train layouts.
2.) Apply a good gloss coat to your model. A gloss coat is vital to reduce silvering.
Flat paints have all kinds of microscopic ridges that will hold tiny bubbles of air under
your decals. It is these bubbles that cause the silvering effect. It doesn’t really matter what
you use for a gloss coat, it can be Future, Modelmaster Metalizer Sealer, or any of the other gloss
coats out there - or you can start with a gloss color coat in which case you won’t need the extra step.
Try some different methods and see what works best for you.
DSchmitt,
The paint is actually flat. Come to think of it this is the first time I have put decals on a flat colour. Thanks so much for the advice. Will give the future a test on a sample item. Makes sense from what you are saying. Time to fire up the printer. Later eh…Brian.
Hello all.On the modelling tram site I belong to the was a big article on decal paper.It depends on the base of the varnish applied to the decal to seal it on the loco.I can’t remember which way round it was (but can find out) but if you use a spirit based varnish it goes hazy and if you use a water based varnist it stays clear or vice versa
Hope this helps.If you need more info I’ll dig out the article and post it.Troy