One of my friends just gave me this Testors Decal System with decal paper and I had never heard of it before. Anybody tried this?
I did a whole thread on this topic about 15 months ago, but I haven’t been able to find it since the forum migrated to the new server [banghead]
I like them alot, but you need to make sure not to get any fingerprints on the printed surface [before printing] otherwise the ink won’t flow on properly. And avoid using any sheets that come rolled-up inside the box of the ‘starter kit’ - they won’t be perfectly flat going thru the printer like they need to be. Get a brand-new separate set of decal sheets instead.
About that previous thread: Apparently it got nuked when I changed my forum username about 2 months ago. I found all the images on my old website, and I can post a list of links to them, but I don’t have time [at the moment] to redo all the explanatory text.
[LATER EDIT] FWIW, Here is a list of the images on the original thread:
I’ve been making my own decals for a few months now. After a bit of a learning curve, I’ve been happy with the results. I use an inkjet printer, which requires more care with the decals than a laser printer, because the inkjet images are water-soluble.
I was kind of surprised at how long it takes the ink to fully, completely dry to the point that it won’t run when you put the protective coat on it. At this point, I would wait at least 2 or 3 days after printing before putting on the coating. (I use Microscale’s Liquid Decal Film.) I give that a day, and then add a second coat. After another day it’s ready to apply. I apply the decals to the surface using Micro-Sol.
I put a couple of my decal pictures up on Photo Fun for the past weekend (20-23 July) if you are interested in the results. Those were from downloaded images. I also made up my own printing using a downloaded font, and put it on my trolley. That gave a much “cleaner” image:
I use a epson printer the one with the color brite ink I belive, after just a short while after printing decals with it, then I spray it with the testers sealer which is just gloss coat I belive. All I do then I just wait a short bit for the pray to dry then i have been putting them on the models. Only probelms I have had is making sure I get a good coat of clear coat over the decals on the sheet before I dip them in water, On vacation right now so don’t have the pictures I took of a cabosse i did the entire sides with decal paper.
I used the items to create some decals as an experiment.
The least I can say is that for me, it was a failure on many levels.
I probably will have a run custom made instead of trying to do decals.
I got one of those a couple of weeks ago and love it. After a few tries I got pretty good results. I have learned I can make the decals on Print Shop and copy & paste into the decal maker, and re-size them from there. I’m sure there is a lot more to learn. Here is a boxcar I did this weekend, The pic is posted on another thread.
Hope you learn to like it as much as I do. Mike
I use to use Vitacal decal paper for inkjets that worked good. But now I havent given the thought of using the inkjet for decals, I have the Alps (out of production) and I also have the option of using an color laser which I have not tried pinting decals on. But I do like the alps.
Like Mr. Beasely, I have been making my own decals for years now, My own road name and emblem, also almost all the trucks in my photobucket vehicle sub-directory are all my own decals, I use an Epson ink jet photo printer, I like micro-marks paper. I buy white and clear depending on application. I seal mine with krylon clear spray. Several light coats not one heavy coat. I find it fun designing my own decals. Very rarely have a problem with them, usually if I have a problem it’s because I didn’t seal them well. here’s one:
I tried to search for that conversion too; I thought it had been discussed before. Did you guys use the Decal bonder that came with it? And should I stay away for solvaset?
Thanks for the replies
I would use Microscale’s Micro-Set and Micro-Sol. Walthers Solvaset is pretty strong and was originally formulated for thicker decals than what we use today, (except for Champ).
Testors makes a spray-on decal sealer.
I have also used mine to do numberboards and the anti glare panel on top short hood on emd units, long as i get a good coat of clear coat on them before getting them wet i have next to no probelms, have not really did much with the software that came with it i just use photoshop to modify print etc.
OK. So can you get WHITE lettering out of an Epson or other Inkjet printer?
Basically, the answer is “No.”
Only the Alps printer, which is no longer made, will actually print white. There are two solutions. First, you can get white-background decal paper, but then you have to trim the edges completely to avoid a white “halo” around your decals. My solution is to paint the background white using cheap acrylic paint, and then apply the decal over that. The “clear” areas of the decal then show up white. This “Downtown” destination board was done this way:
Here’s George and Gracie on the side of Pam’s Pet Shop, same technique:
Ok so I have been printing my own decals mostly for signs and graffiti; but one thing escapes me: What size font to use for the side and end marks of a car, also what font makes a good stencil look-a-like?
Thanks alot
I googled for “stencil font” and came up with a screenload of possibilities. This is just one of them:
http://simplythebest.net/fonts/stencil_fonts.html
I had a hard-drive crash a few weeks back, so I can’t find the one I used. I think it was Dirty Bakers Dozen. I made a big No Parking sign for the side of a building, using white letters on a black background, and then painting the white space on the building before applying the black outline decal. It came out pretty well.
When selecting font size, I usually print out several different sizes on plain paper, and then compare them to what I want. Once I’ve made my choice, then I go to the decals. I usually do my graphics by inserting the picture into MS Word, which gives me a ruler on the screen to accurately measure the size of the final picture.
I have an Epson printer. You can get a kit to replace the expensive OEM cartridges with refillable replacement ones. There a choice between standard dye based inks and pigment based inks which last much longer as printed images. This got me thinking. I’m wondering if it would be possible to find out of if a white printers ink would be usable in these cartridges? Isn’t Accupaint based on printer’s ink that’s been augmented with solvents and other things that allow it to be used as paint? These printers are relatively inexpensive. At about $100 or so for one you wouldn’t be out too much money if you decided to experiment with some white ink to see if they could be used together.
I’ve been refilling ink carts on my old HP for years and persured this idea last winter. Picked up some white ink at Hobby Lobby and attempted a refill. Unfortunately the I couldn’t get enough of the old color out of the cart to get a clean white print.
I think the idea is a valid one but will need more patience than I have to make work.
Tom.
I have an Epson Stylus Photo R200 printer. It has 6 ink cartriges - black, and 5 color ones. I have tried printing decals on it, but the ink does not seem to dry. When I tried using GlossCote to seal the ink, the paint dissolved the ink. [#oops]
Any suggestions on improving my luck with this printer? It works great with permium glossy photo paper, and makes excellent signs using this paper.
You need Microscale Liquid Decal Film. Make sure you’re using decal paper made for inkjet printers. I wait 2 days (yes, 2 days) after printing before I put the Liquid Decal Film. Another day, then another coat, and finally I feel like I can put them on a day after that. I usually wait a day after I put them on before I give them a coat of spray-on sealant of some kind. Patience, Grasshopper. It will be rewarded.
Here are a bunch of threads about this subject.
Decal paper (laser), how does it work?