Ok,
Here is the thread to talk about airbrushes and the problems you may encounter.
I need to know something about my airbrush. Well not really my airbrush but the paint.
What is the cause when the paint comes out in little clumps. I’m using a Paasche H with a Paasche air compressor, from a long time ago. I was using model master II black gloss paint.
Please help!!!
-dekruif
My bet is you’re using paint that’s:
Stir by hand or use one of those battery-operated stirring devices.
On the other hand, if your definition of clumps is different than mine, and none of the above apply, try using a smaller needle (I recommend a Paasche #3) and lower PSI on your compressor (I recommend 20 lbs). Of course, if 1, 2, or 3 above are causing your issue, the #3 needle will probably clog.
Lynda
S E A R C H-----there are LOTS of threads on this subject.
David
Lynda hit a home run with her post.[tup]
I have approximately 25 bottles of paint and I know that at one time or another I will use them. However, to help prevent the chemicals from separating and settling I will shake each one up from time to time then store it upside down. The next time I shake them vigorously, I store them right side up. I alternate this each time. Over the years very few paints from these bottles have dried out or clumped up on me. Though I use mostly acrylics now, some of my old Floquil solvent paints are at least 7 years old and they’re still good!
Since I have quite a bit of paint, I plan on purchasing a mini-paint shaker.
BTW:
For stirring paint, those white plastic coffee stirrers from McDonalds work well. The bottom of these stir sticks are shaped like mini-boat paddles and help scrap the bottoms and sides of paint jars ( Now guys, please don’t go to McIddy’s and steal a batch!) I asked the manager for a few at one McDonalds and he graciously let me have them. Just 2 or 3 is all you need since you can wipe them off with alcohol or thinner and reuse them over and over.
Peace and High Greens
Sounds to me that it is a thining issue. You need to thin your paint with the proper thiner #1. If your using a enamel use a mineral spirits to thin it. Try not to use a Laquer thiner as it can cause an adverse reaction. #2 thin your paint to the consistancy of milk before spraying. #3 try and strain your paint when ever possiable before you spray. #4 make sure your preasure is consistant when spraying. for the H I recomend between 15-20psi. I mainly spray with automotive laqures while painting my model cars And I have 2 brushes that I use constantly 1 single action and a double. Also I recomend getting the book on Airbrushing from Kalmbach. It is a great resource and I find invaluable in my liabary.
Curt
ALWAYS strain your paint! I use stockings/pantyhose. Pour from the paint bottle into a clean container thru the “screen”. If it won’t go thru, thin the paint some.
If this is helpful to newbies:
Always clean your airbrush immedietly after your job is finished!
When painting with Acrylics (water based) paints, I prefer to flush at 30 p.s.i with Isopropyl alcohol. With Solvent based paints, flushing is with Lacquer Thinner. It’s worth the extra 20 seconds to remove the needle and aircap and wipe them off with the cleaning agent as well.
My Paasche VL is 20 years old and the only reason I’m retiring to “weathering only” jobs is because I’ve dropped it on hard surfaces twice in the past and it no longer sprays the same. My next airbrush ( which I was supposed to pick up recently ) will be a Badger double action unit that I will use for overall paint jobs.
High Greens
Be careful to check the type of paint you’re using before thinning. The other day I inadvertantly thinned a Model master acrylic with paint thinner. I thought I was a little thick but tried it anyway. A half hour later I’m still tryin to get it out of my airbrush and bottle. Then I tried another color of acrilic,Pol-S grimy black, thinned it water and immediatly plugged the brush again. The paint evidently had been frozen or something. It seemed to be granulated. Cleaned up the brush agian. This time I used MM thinner based paint with thinner and got the job done in 5 min. two hours later. Oh the joys of airbrushing. I chalk this all up to learning experience. I have learned to read the labels more closely, I have learned to watch the paint more closely for particulate matter, I have learned patience, I have learned not to throw my airbrush with the hose attached and a full bottle of paint on it across the shop.[:I]
I use the Paasche H and they normally work very well for most applications. If the hole on the bottle cap gets clogged with paint, the airbrush will not paint well. The problem you seem to be having sounds like small lumps in the paint. You can eliminate this by using a filter on your suction tube to prevent any lumps from entering the paint stream.
Never use paint that is not fresh. Back to basics on paint. Fresh paint, clean gun and proper mixture with thinning the paint until it is correct for the application.
OK, as I have admitted in other threads, I am severly airbrushed challenged but have decided to make a commitment to learning to do it right. I have done just about all the wrong things that have been mentioned above and I probably should invest in a quality compressor if I want to do this right. Right now I have the problem of a clogged need in both my airbrushes, a Badger and a Paasche. Is there a way to fix that that or are they toast?
“Clogged needle”? Or is it dried paint clogging the inside of the hollow shaft the needle slides into. For internal cleaning, I soak a small paint gun bristle brush with lacquer thinner and gently scrub the inside of the shaft.
A needle loaded with dried paint is usually easy to clean by soaking in thinner for a while than peeling off the paint. If it is severe, it’s easier just to buy a replacement needles.
But is this the problem you’re experiencing?
For the model master acrylics I believe you should be able to use alcahol to thin them, and If I had read correctly before most acrylic’s can be thined with it as well. You don’t need to spend the money on the name brand stuff. When using enamels I found minerial spirits to be the best thinner for enamels. I also use a Good quality automotive Laquer thinner for cleaning and thining of my laquers and air brush. I also strain all my enamels and any Laqure’s that are old as well. Also as a rule of thumb I always thin the paints I am going to spray to the consistancy of milk, and for those that ask 2% milk is what I use [:D]. I hope this helps and as I mentioned before get this book " http://kalmbachcatalog.stores.yahoo.net/12173.html " it is a great resource for beginers!!
Curt
I use a Paasche AF-384 and the only time I had that problem was with the thinning process . But as others stated make sure you use the correct thinner ! You are adding the thinner then shaking alot before spraying — correct ? If your paint’s globbing or extremely thick in the bottle — throw it away and get new . Sometimes you can’t get it thinned correctly — will have micro globs that will clog the airbrush . And make sure the pressure is correct and don’t leave it lay too long between sprayings . Give her a few shakes before re-spraying . Sounds like alot of trouble but it gets like riding a bicycle after awhile … automatic .
So after more years than I care to remember I’m moving from armchair railroad modeler to the real thing. As far as airbrushes go I’ve had the Paasche VL-1? recommended as a good unit to start out with, any comments?
The Paasche VL series, are overall, very good airbrushes. Don’t drop them on hard surfaces, make sure to clean them and they will last for years! As I’ve stated before, mine is nearly 20 years old and still looks like it’s brand new.
I’ve tried the Badgers before and they’re excellent units. I’m interested in buying a dual action unit.