The Challenger is almost done!!!! :D :D :D

Well, it doesn’t look like I’ll need that, because I found a way to make it quieter! I put some flexible tubing in to replace one of the couplings and now it’s real quiet.[:D][:D]

I think I put around 40 hours into it.

Bowser’s T-1 4-4-4-4 comes with two motors. Just make sure you use a 4-amp decoder if you install DCC. Each motor’s stall current is two amps![:0]

Thank you, I will now order one, was worried about how they ran.
Want to build another? Only kidding
George P.

Only if you add the detail, paint the engine and pay me $100. I’d build the valve gears in my special modified way, which makes it much more realistic.


My way


Bowser’s way

See any difference besides the black paint on their’s?

Looks like you redid the crank pin area, Where did you get the parts? Make them?

I cut some plastic valve gear parts from a Monogram Big Boy. I got the Big Boy so I could use the tender, then I decided to use a couple parts from the valve gears and use the interior.

I also backed all 4 of the 0 shaped parts back to their proper positions, instead of having them forward and hanging out in front of the valve gear hanger where Bowser designed them to be.[:D]

You’ve altered the expansion link, added what appears to be a heavy valve-stem guide, or is it meant to be the admission link…?

That is so,so,so sweet!!! I’ve always envied people that can do work like that. I’m half way through my Mantua Mikado and lovin every minute of it.(no where near as detailed and complex as what your doing). I’ve been to the Bowser site to get tips on building my Mantua.(plan on getting their super detail kit). Does your kit use these little rivetts for the running gear???The main rods on mine connect to the drive wheels with brass screws, but the rest of the running gear is hooked together with teent,tiny rivets.Anyone got any hints on how to do the rivets???(my plans are “lacking detail” to put it kindly)

It appears you’ve also left the gear in “neutral,” or very close to it. Your valve piston won’t move much, if at all (or did I miss something obvious?). Will you be adding the reversing linkage?

Not to steal the topic… However the Big Boy I orderd last week arrived a couple days ago. Just could not pass up that discount they are having. Also seriously thinking about ordering the T1, just have to see how $$$$$ works out in the next few days.

Anyway, like mentioned above, any tips on riveting, or any other words of wisdom…? I spent some time yesterday, searching the web for any info. But found very little…

Very good, very good. [bow][bow][bow][bow][bow][bow][wow][wow]

ICMR

Happy Railroading.[swg][swg]

Does this Challenger have true articulation (with the rear drivers rigidly mounted to the boiler instead of rotating like diesel engines)?

All Bowser kits include a special tool for riveting. All you need is a hard surface for pounding the rivets and a light hammer or medium sized wrench. When you do the rivets, make sure you hit the riveting tool lightly, or the rivet might be too tight, but you don’t want it too loose either.

If you have any other questions about building Bowser steamers, just ask. I’ll see what I can do to help.[:D]

Yes, the Bowser Challenger and Big Boy have true articulation. They are the only non-brass Challengers and Big Boys with correct articulation.[:D]

I didn’t want to go to the trouble of making the valve gear pistons move, so I left them in nuetral.

The power reverse is on the right rear side of the engine. It’s sort of visable in the 5th picture, but it’s only a detail part and doesn’t move.

Wow!! I like it! I used to think that the steam locos were ‘pretty cool’ until last month when I got to see UP Challenger 3985 up close and personal. After that, I started having dreams about those things. I simply MUST get one for my layout.

Looking good, though!

Darrin

Vary nice work, Now I want to build one!!well maybe not,my eyes arent good enough for that[^][:D][wow]You stated that the Bowser Challenger and Big Boy have true articulation.A little more info on that please[%-)] I have an rivarossi 2-8-8-2 Big Boy It is Articualated[%-)]Any how real nice work[bow]
JIM

I hope you used loctite on your running gear?

Looking good there dude :stuck_out_tongue:

Yo, Darth! Want a Clinchfield Challenger to go with your UP??

http://tinyurl.com/88yk9

Andre

Most HO articulated steamers (like all the ones made by Rivarossi) have both sets of drivers mounted so the can swing around like diesel trucks. On the Bowser Challenger and Big Boy, the rear set of drivers is mounted rigidly to the boiler, like on the real ones, leaving only the front set to swing back and forth.

If you’re talking about how I supported the 4 parts I moved back, I glued small pieces of copper on the parts just above where it hangs on the rivet, keeping it half-way up like it’s supposed to be.[:)]

Would you please help me by telling me what parts I would need to order to build this one? Do the motor come with the engine and so on? I’ve looked at bowsers homepage and the ordering part is, well for lack of a better word, poor.

Magnus

You mean, which kits will you need to build it?

The four kits required to build it (with the Big Boy tender) are:
Bowser #100300 Locomotive kit ($123 US)
Bowser #100325 Superdetail kit ($62)
Bowser #150681 Electrical kit ($27.40)
Revell/Monogram or Con-Cor Big Boy kit

At the moment, Bowser has the Locomotive and detail kits on backorder, but the electrical kit is still in stock. http://www.bowserorders.com/.sc/ms/dd/HO%20Bowser%20Miscellaneous/3815583/Bowser%20ELECTRICAL%20KIT%20MONO%2014%20WHEEL%20%20TENDER The motor and all the drive parts do come with the locomotive kit.