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“The Chopper” by NorthWest Short Line
wouldn’t do without.
I’ve been using the Chopper II for about a year now. I agree with all of Dennis comments. However, I find that doesn’t cut at a precise 90% angle. I occasionally have to use a file to clean up the cut. Sometimes the blade doesn’t cut all the way through. To prevent this, place the wood to be cut on top of a piece of scrap wood. You can fasten the scrap wood down with the clamps supplied with the unit or with two-sided tape.
A boon to anyone building a trestle or a scratch stock car.
My Chopper II is within arm’s reach. I’ve found it to be one of the best modeling tool investiments – ever!
I use it too, for how shall I say it, cutting handrails for ships. But they really are great for cutting anything to a consistent length.
I also purchased the Chopper II. Evrything Mr. Murphy has said is true. When building wood kits, comes in real handy. Remember the razor is real sharp (don’t ask me how I know), so be careful and keep it away from small children. Works well and does the job quickly.
Sounds good, but no mention of price, and are we talking regular razor blades, or are these blades special order ? I live far from good hobby shop, so thats why I ask.
I have found that the tool skews every cut to the side and when two pieces are put together, there is a gap between the pieces. I have not found a way to correct this problem. I am looking for suggestions to aleviate the issue. Might this issue be more prevalent with plastic versus wood?
A fine review of a truly innovative tool. Especially when one compares this version to the original Chopper! A must-have for any modeler.
It is a great tool, far better than the Chopper I. Yes it cuts sligtly out of perpendicular and this is because de cutting tool is a single edge razor blade, so you have to be careful when cutting reazonable thick material, because it has a tendency to bend and how you pull or press the handle. I did try to put a piece of metal, about 3mm thick, but it just bothers the sight and gets in the way. May be the answer could be to change the handle to another that can use the trapezoid blade which is thicker, but again the edge is in V shape and that will continue not to give a sharp perpendicular cut. The tool as it is performs really well and it was designed for thar. I´m really happy with it. I also use a piece of paper, which I´ve photocopied with a protractor image, in order to get all 360 or 180 angles, in this manner I get any angle with precision and the paper, even that thin, helps to get a clean cut all the way
This has been the biggest breakthrough in my ability to consistently make quality cuts. Any serious scratch modeler shouldn’t live without one.
For a long time I cut my wood en styrene out of hand with a knife or little saw.
After a friend of mine order a chopper and I saw the advantages of it I’ve ordered one myself. Work really speeds up with this handy tool. I’ll recommend this to every model builder.
Have found it most usefull for repeat cuts where the wood or plastic is thin. The cutting board itself is problematic in relation to the hatch lines as they do not square up with the blade accurately, but serve the purpose as a general guide. Likely problem is the way the board it stamped or cut out in production leaving less than square outside edges in relation to the hatch lines.
I have used the “Chopper” for a number of years and find it very useful. The only criticsim I have of the tool is it’s tendency to cut on a slight angle in the verticle plane. This is more pronounced in thicker material and I believe it is due to the razor blade deflecting as it makes the cut . Bob
I have to. When I cut thicker wood I cut on one side a little and flip it over finish cutting the strip. On styrene I score it and then snap it. I also have a True sander anf I cut wood a little longer and us the sander to get them the same length.
It is also simple and easy to make your own “angle stops” if you
are working with odd angles and need to make repetitive cuts.
About the only way I can think of to improve this great tool would
would be to mount the cutting arm on a spindle which could be
locked in various positions to allow compound cuts, in addition to the 90 degree angle cuts provided by the Chopper II.
Looks interesting, BUT with no price given and shipping costs?
I use a scroll saw that will cut either right or left 90 degree angles max or less plus straight up and down. Got turned onto this by a full time Wood Toy manufacturer, doing business out of his home.
That and small belt sander, or block wood/with sand paper. works fine for me. Would have to see once again the Price and shipping cost.
It is a great tool, but my problem with it is that it doesn’t cut straight down, but at an angle due to the flexibility of the razor blade. It’s fine for real thin material, but has this angle problem with thicker styrene. I wish someone could come out with a stronger blade.
I had always wanted a Chopper for modelling and found the need with my kids Destination Imagination (idodi.org) creative learning program. My son (10) and his team had to build many balsa structures to specific dimensions with a combined weight of no more than 20gms.
The structures were made up of angles and supports. They then had to be placed on a tester base and piled with Olympic style weights. The outcome to see how much weight the structures could bear. Very cool, some can hold up to 600lbs.
Needless to say precise cuts were crucial and a little unnerving with kids fingers. But with proper directions and safety precautions the kids did amazing! It could not have been accomplished without the Chopper II. Now I can finally use it for myself.