Here is another update. I’m putting up the roof structure now and as you can see the trusses are in and the base planks are being put down. I liked the look of the 4-40 bolts I used on the helix so I used that technique again on these trusses.
Once this is finished I’ll start the turret/tower before shingeling the roof. Still a lot to do before this project is finished. Porch, deck, and staircase railings will take some time. Then there is the stone work to do.
That thing is starting to look too large for your layout. If that’s the case, just UPS it out to Rosebud Falls. I understand that old Flatbottom is shopping for a new house! [(-D]
The roof is ready for shingles after a trim job with a new dremel mini saw attachment. The siding is done and ready for stain. I’ve added some brackets by cutting some “artistic appliques” into quarters. Now I’ve started the railing. This is going to take some time.
Now that you mention it, I think your layout just might fit inside the “greatroom”. I keep telliing Rex that this thing is too big for his layout. (even if it is some 20 times larger than mine.)
You realize, ofcourse, that purchasing the tables and chairs for that dinning room(?) (the cantilevered great room) is going to cost more than building the entire hotel. How do you plan on furnishing all those guest rooms? Do a google for “hotel room” and there are some rather nice looking rooms if you are into “interiors by foto’s”.
There is a Doll House store up in Scottsdale that has a whole bunch of unfinished 1:24 furniture that I’ll probably take a gander at. Michael’s also has unfinished furniture. You’re right though that I’ll probably end up spending more on furniture than I have on the whole building. So far I’ve got 6 cedar and 4 redwood fence boards invested in the project.
So let the fireplace casting begin. Here are the results of my first attempts. As you can see I found a piece of channel iron (motorcycle ramp) for my form. I used Pam as my release agent and I used coner mesh for the strength part. The river rock is aquarium gravel.
As you can see it has some spots where the cement came clear through to the form and other areas where not enough cement patch grout came through the mesh to grab the rock. My second attempt was even worse. It sat up way too fast and my layered fix was a bust. So HELP!! What will improve my castings?
Yes I did have to take out both back walls. My roof had a different center than the walls did. I think I’ll make both of these walls removable when I replace them.
Veronica’s Dollhouse http://www.veronicasdollhouse.com/ has a very nice French bedroom suit for $144. That’s probably a budget buster what with a dozen guestrooms to fill.
Miniature discount dollhouses and more http://www.miniatures.com/hbs/global/index2.asp has several nice looking beds for around $12. Don’t know about you but that is more in line with my budget.
Yes furnishing will be much more expensive than the grand hotel itself however right now I’m more concerned with fixing my fireplace casting problems. Any ideas on how I can avoid those flat spots?
Nope! Waiting to learn from your mistakes. I’ve tried a couple times before and one look later I applied multiple applications of the old 8 pound sledge hammer, putting the debris under a new sidewalk.
I tried the Ray Dunakin casting method twice and messed it up both times. The first try was my best but it had the unacceptable slick spots shown in the photos. I believe that comes from the mix being too thin. The Rapid Set mortar mix would not clean up even with a wire brush or a cutting wheel on my trusty dremel. That stuff is tough! My second trial was with stiffer mortar however that mix didn’t pick up the rocks. I tried to butter it with more mortar and recast it but that was even worse. This third trial has a wood core with wire mesh stapled to it as I did for the full scale fireplace in Pinetop. I’m also using a slower setting mortar mix and doing one side at a time by applying mortar to the mesh and then hand placing each stone into the motar. That way I don’t have to grout the gaps. Those rocks that don’t stick get glued back in place with Titebond II. I tried Gorilla Glue but that stuff foams on cement and ends up shiney which is not what I wanted. The slick/tumbled aquarium gravel does stick to the rapid set mortar but not as well with this slower stuff. This process is taking much longer than the Ray casting method so I’m doing the shingeling while I wait for the current side to set.
Pictures to follow if I’m successful. If not then I’ll take your advice and make use of the 8 pounder.
Rex: Here is a thought, actually it is the way I’m doing most of my buildings. Do a IMAGE search for the phrase “hotel room interiors”. Find some that you like, reverse the image and print the images scaled down on transparencies. Cut them out, spray Elmer’s spray adhesive on the printed side and attach to suitable backing. The Elmer’s will not cause the ink from your Inkjet printer to run if you let it dry up for at least 24 hours. The ink (or better yet a color lazer printer) is sealed away from any weather damage. Check out these two buildings as an example, I did them just over a year ago and all is still fine. I would post another but Rene would probably get upset with Doug Longbottom’s (President RbFSRWy) “french maid”. This will give you immediate interiors at minimal cost, then as you build/acquire actual furnishings you can pull the prints off and put in the real goods. There is an article in the new Issue of GR about doing exactly that, but he used pix of his friends and fellow operators.
Curtains and stained round glass window over the door.
Stained glass windows on the second floor of my hotel.
Rex, Don’t know how, but I missed your latest posts. Been woundering what was going on with the hotel project. I can see. Looks really great. I like the chimney and can apprieciate the time and effort going into shingling that massive roof having done several smaller ones my self. By the time you finish you’ll need a semi and crane to move and place in the train yard. Jack