I just had a ton of fun! I completely disassembled an Athearn F7A Super Power Locomotive. No matter what I did, I couldn’t get it to run without the headlight flickering. I finally had to disassemble the entire thing, motor, trucks, wheels, gears, everything and gave it a thorough cleaning, the first it’s had since I got it 22 years ago (1984). It was filthy! No wonder it didn’t run right. I even took the bearings out and cleaned them. When everything was clean and shiny, I reassembled the mechanism, lubed it, put the weight and shell back on and put it back on the track. Now it runs beautifully, steady, no flickering light and faster than it was before. Oh! One thing I forgot to mention. This is a trainset locomotive that has been running dependably for all those years. The only modifications I made to it was to put in a super weight about 20 years ago and to convert it for a DCC decoder, which hasn’t been installed yet.
I haven’t had to clean any of my engines yet, but I know that I will have to get into them eventually. The only boiler I have removed was the one on my BLI Hudson…I can’t remember why I did it…but it seemed straightforward. Keeping the drivers in quarter is something I’ll have to bear in mind.
You’re right, though, Jeffrey; the time comes.
Most of my locos are old-tech like the one you’re describing. I’ve had to do this to many of them, and any time I pick up a used one of this vintage, that’s one of the first steps, complete tear down and cleaning.
I don’t want to hijack your thread, but I have a question. What do you use to lube the loco?
I use an oil that’s made for R/C cars. It’s called Trinity and is plastic compatible. You can get from most hobby shops. I’ve found that it works better than LaBelle.
Jeff, Super Weight’s go that far back? Darn I just bought mine NIB from LHS in March! [:D]
It is fun repairing the older stuff and I am getting good at it. With the new MRC 9500 thottle the old stuff runs like a champ trippled headed with a 60 car dragg.
What you folks have taught me as helped me a lot. Just picked up a Athearn Dash 8 C for $15.00 with shipping off E-stupid. Can hardly wait to tear it down and make it run like new again!
Most of my stuff is old and from estate sells. I am sure the old enginers are looking down with a big grin on there faces seeing there beloved engines and rolling stock hauling freight again.
My self, I am taking it with me![:D] I will be buried in my 68 Road Runner and the trains will be in the trunk. Who says you can’t take it with you, my stereo system will be in the back seat.
Cuda Ken
Depends on the part. For the gear tower, you should use a grease compatible with plastic. LaBelles makes one (spelling right?), and so does Hobby Lube. For side rods and all wheel bearings, you should use one of their oils that won’t damage either paint or plastics. However, I have successfully use Dexron II ATF on the advice of someone here ( I forget who it was…I am sorry) because of its superior qualities and the fact that it does no harm to plastics.
I’ve found that a lot of the locos sold on ebay as “doesn’t run too well” only need cleaning and oiling, but the idiots selling them don’t have the know how to do so. Oh well. Their loss is my gain…
Tracklayer
but you’ll get dirt all over the car then…[V]
I just finished a thorough disassembly, cleaning and reassembly of a P2K GP30, no easy trick. That thing has screws where screws have no business being seems to me. It ran good enough before but now it runs like a dream.
I don’t think it will bug me then[:)]
Dirt Nap Ken still Posting Till then.
I just had to do that with one of my E-R Models RF-15 sharks. I had to take the decoder out to get to the motor and gears but now it runs just fine.
Boy, cleaning those gears can be a pain, can’t it?
Any one source document you’d recommend to get help in doing this. I have some old loco’s I’d love to clean up and install decoders. I always wonder, will I get it all apart and not back together again. Is it that hard? Hal