The subject of weathering comes up often. I thought creating a thread dedicated to weathering would do at least do one of three things:
1)Alleviate numerous threads on the same topic.
2)Have an educational value.
3)Be an area to compile the best sites, threads, and forums on weathering and weathering inspiration.
I will divide it into categories, so finding something should be easy.
Intro
If you follow my work at all, you’ll know that I’m not the greatest. However, I do know a bit. Many weatherers have accomplished what I would love to-and hope to some day.
Forums
This forum is great, but it has few weathering topics. Here are three other forums I recommend you join, as we’re always looking for new members.
I’ve been meaning to pick up some of those powders…
For now i’ve just used a heavily saturated whiteboard eraser. I would think that this would also work with a chalkboard eraser. Applying it to the car produces a darkened, smoky sort of feel. However, it is very basic, and nothing like the results of the Bragdon powders.
Wow, that’s a lot of equipment, hope you don’t scare off potential weatherers(?) Moderation is the No.1 factor in weathering, even slight over doing it can ruin a piece, I seem to have achieved what I believe to be very adequate weathering with a tube of acrylic grey and small jar of rust acrylic paint, plus a very small good quality brush for detail. oh, and an HB pencil and small eraser. and have fun
to avoid this bein buried you may want to join http://2guyzandsumtrains.com and post this there as well. more than likely it will be added to the “how-to” section and yu can direct link it there and then post the link here
or start a whole new forum on it alone.
at 2guyzandsumtrains the forums are broken down into sections that pertain to modelling and model building etc
About the list…That is a list with items I’ve tried and items that have been recommended to be by the greats themselves. I have built up a collection of these items over the months, and use them all for different purposes.
Most of the ink in the eraser I used for this one was black, but I would think that other colors could produce other effects in similar ways, like rust.
As I said, this is a very basic approach, and probably only good as a base.
(Edit) Sorry, haven’t gotten the chance to crop them.
One product I wouldn’t overlook is the Bragdon Weathering System, a very fine powder that goes on with a toothbrush and contains a dry adhesive that makes the powder stick, no matter how many times you handle the equipment. I just bought a selection of their powders and have tried it on a few cars (I’m new at this, BTW) and frankly, I’m amazed at the results. I thought I was going to have to buy all sorts of materials to weather my freight cars, but I think I can do them all with this product. The Weathering System is made by: Bragdon Enterprises, 2960 Garden Tower Ln. in Georgetown, CA (right up the road from me) 95634. The website is: www.bragdonent.com This product is especially designed for modelers. I really like it.
Tom [tup][tup]
Matt pretty much has the tools/material list down. Everything I use is on there.
I utilize the Bragdon Powders in alcohol washes, mixed with oils, or simply sable brushed on and sealed. Great stuff. Any time its used straight out, I mist it with da dullcote. Cause moisture generated by fingers is enough to leave marks in the powder, and I want the models safe to handle. This changes the appearance also, which can be good for achieveing certain looks. They darken down and look less stark. Some of the BE powders vanish after being dullcote. The yellow, ash gray, and dark gray do this. Dark rust, light rust, med rust, dark brown, and earth brown tend to hold there color well though.
Recently, within the last few months, I’ve begun experimenting with artist oil paints. I had many of them in my possesion, but never used them in weathering until now. Perfect stuff for drybrushing. Their consistancy and long working time makes them a very useful item. Great in washes too. I found oil works better in a wa***han arcylics. I know some guys who use them for pretty making all effect. Rightfully so. Oil is magical, but it does need plenty of drying time between layers (the only drawback).
When I do stuff thats water based and I need a thinner I use what I call the ‘magic mix’.
It consist of water, a little cheap liquid hairspray, and a drop of Ajax. I use it to thin watercolors, gouche, acrylics, things like that. It increase flowing abilities AND gives said medium more body. Works great to slighly thin acrylic paints to create graffiti.
I have a question. Whats with people using windshield washer fluid to thin acrylic paints? Isn’t that defeating the purpose? That crap is toxic right? I thought the point of using acrylic was because they were safe. You want toxic, you might as well just use Floquil.
Aggro - The WW fluid is distilled water, alcohol and a detergent. It’s very effective as a thinner and air brush cleaner. No petroleum distillates like Floquil.
I like the AIM powders because there are more colors than Bragdon. They have adhesive like bragdon, but you DO have to seal the model if you want your hard work to last. I also use goache, hairspray, diluted acrylics, alchohal (bad spelling[:D]) and of course, the common denominator, water.
Dont forget about the effects you can get putting alchohal ([:D]) on dull cote. it turns white, and with a little practice it is a great technique. Plus, if you screw up, spray the dullcote again and its gone!
One of my favorite techniques is to mix burnt umber, raw umber and burnt sienna goache and dab a cosmetic sponge on it. Then dab the sponge on paper until its just leaving little speckles. Do this on the model and it looks like paint flaking and rusting.
