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Thin Branch Series: Laying track
David, I have watched all 13 Thin branch sessions posted so far and am quite impressed with the job you and your staff have done on this Video Plus. Most, if not all of the trouble experienced viewing the videos may have been caused by the power saving settings on my computer. Once it was set to the highest performance level which is also the shortest battery life, the videos have been working quite well. Lastly, I’m am hoping that you cover how the splice joints in the track will be made where the track crosses from one module to another. My recent railroad project is designed as modules, and I’m anxious to see how you make the crossings. Thanks for the great videos thus far.
Thank you David,
I found the C&L web site with the alignment pins, and even found an elusive MRR video late last night showing you mounting one of those pins on the Virginian before joining the straight yard section. However, I can not find that video again even after searching through 20 parts of “Building the Virginian” in the Project Video category. That video with the aligmnet pins was called “Running Trains on the Virginian”, but I can not find it agin to review it. It even had the PC board tie visible if you paused it just right on full screen mode.
Mystery video with alignment pins found! 
Part 19 of Building the Virginian. Somehow I missed it in searching the series of 20 parts. Thank you.
Hello Dave,
We did cover the splice joints, but we did it using our newest project railroad, Rice Harbor. Unfortunately, those videos won’t run until later this year. Essentially, we are using pattern maker’s alignment pins between the sections. You can get them from an English company called C&L Finescale. You want item no. C1191 - here’s the link http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=437_438
Once the pins are installed, lay the track between the two sections and then cut it at the gap. The pins will line up the sections correctly every time, so you won’t need rail joiners or fitter track. For added strength, I usually replace the last tie on each section with a PC board tie soldered to the rails.
Best wishes on your project.
David
Hello Walter,
We’ll dig into flextrack on curves in its own video later this year, but to keep you moving forward on your layout, this is basically what you need to do. Lay the first section of track into the curve as you would normally. Then, attach the next section of flextrack while it is still straight (or close to straight) and solder the rail joiners. Once the solder cools (about a minute or two), you can then bend the new section to fit the curve and tack it in place. Clip the excess rail at the other end as needed, attach your next piece of track, solder the joiners, and continue on until you’ve completed the curve.
If you offset your rail ends by a couple of ties, you reduce the chance of developing a kink in the track over time. If it does kink, you can reheat the soldered rail joint and push the track back into a curve using a pliers or a screw driver until the solder cools.
Best wishes on your project, and thanks for watching MR Video Plus!
David
Hi David.
The video “Thin Branch Series: Working with cork roadbed” is showing a 404 File Not Found Error.
Mike
Are there any video’s on laying flex track around the curves. I’m new on model railroading and working on laying flex track on a 26’ radius, and I am a bit confused about cutting the ends, and should I first attach enough flex track end to end before applying it to the curve. I’v already done some of the above but also mested up one end… Thanks
Hi David,
The following Thin Branch Videos have beeb showing a 404 - File or directory not found for the last 2-3 days. This is getting frustrating. 25 percent of this series is now MIA. This occurs in any browser I use, Can you please acknowledge and give us an ETA of when these will be back.
Wire a power reversing switch
How to Soldering Rail joints
Build a layout Mock up
Working with Cork Roadbed
Thanks,
Steve
Hello Stephen, and others who have called attention to the 404 error. Thank you! We are working on the problem and hope to have those pages back up and running in short order. Unfortunately, the site doesn’t tell us when there is a problem, and with more than 600 videos between MR and MRVP, we can’t look at each page every day. I’ll post a note here again when the issue has been resolved.
Thank you for your patience, and best wishes on your endeavors.
David
Hello all,
The 404 error has been corrected, and those videos in question should all play normally now. Thank you again for alerting us to the problem, and enjoy the videos!
David
David,
Great video on track laying, learned several ideas from that one…Now, just a suggestion from a modeler who has launched many pieces of rail across the room when cutting with track cutters…position a small cardboard box to catch those lethal projectiles…it’s also easier to pick them up later
This was super like the tip about painting the subroadbed
Enjoyed the video, but I do have a question. I am familiar with using a piece of “bridge” track when joining modules, but it appears that the track on the Thin Branch is flush with the end of the module. How do you align the track at the ends of the modules for derailment-free operation with adjacent modules?
Cody, I tried your suggestion of using alcohol for wetting ballast and it does make the cement flow nicely. However, after a few minutes doing it I was on a cheap high and it was not a nice buzz. I was working in a well ventilated 500 sq ft room immediately over the AC vent, but the track is on a shelf at 60" which placed my face right over it as I worked. I almost fell off my step stool and had to go outside for fresh air for a few minutes to clear my head. I suggest folks use a fan to blow the fumes away if they are working close to their track for any length of time. Or better yet, unless they are on a deadline, just use wet water and place a small fan next to the ballasted area to make it dry faster. As always I’m enjoying your videos–Larry
David, it seemed like your paint to cover the thinly ballasted areas and the plaster might obscure the Sharpie marks you used to identify switch and track placement. Does the marker line show through, did you obscure the marks but have experience to reposition the switches, or did I miss something? I could envision myself blissfully painting over my marks and having to re-lay and re-pin my track work…
I have watched several track laying segments from several project R videos. I can locate turnouts, cut and fit rail and place them on the layout. My question is how do you attach longer pieces of flex-track… How far ahead should I cut and fit before placing adhesive?
Nice video. I would love to see a video on how to properly put down curved flex track to make a nice smooth curve. I haven’t found anything really decent on this aspect. Thx’
It’s refreshing seeing another’s view of laying turnouts and the like. I have leaned so much from you guys. thanks so much.
Picked up a few good ideas for laying “manufactured” rail. Hand laying is a different can of worms altogether. Fortunately in this hobby, there is no “one” method of doing it.