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Thin Branch Series: Powering turnout frogs
When using an Ohmmeter (V-O-M) and checking continuity through a turnout, it’s important to “zero” the meter with the zeroing knob before using. When looking for continuity one might also find resistance in the path. That could indicate a cold solder joint or dirt. A few ohms resistance can drop voltage enough to cause stalling in a DCC sound-equipped engine. I just helped a friend with that problem.
Nicely explained, Mr. P. I like to use an edge connector, rather than soldering directly to the switch motor. I buy long ones from the electronic surplus store and cut them down to 8 terminals, which fits the terminals on the Tortoise. I have made a test unit, consisting of a control switch and edge connector to operate any newly installed switch motor. After making sure the turnout operates correctly, just pull off the connecter, slide on another, and make the permanent connections. If you can’t flip your layout, this will save some backbreaking contortions.
NICE! This answered several of my questions about powering turnout frogs. Videos like this are giving my money’s worth in this subscription.
The useful tips and tricks that you all demonstrate continue to be helpful. I recently extended my video plus subscription because I have been very happy with all of your helpful demos and ideas!
Good video, however… you really should mention the step of cleaning the solder joint after using flux. Because flux is an oxidizer, it WILL cause corrosion unless neutralized by isopropyl alcohol. Cleaning the joint with alcohol using an old toothbrush or micro-brush or whatever is at hand, will prevent the joint from corroding and coming apart in the future. An ounce of prevention…
Question for David Popp. Why wouldn’t you buy a powered switch and save all of that time and energy?
doublef1@cox .net
Very nicely described and illustrated. One approach I use in assuring the corrrect rail wire will be soldered to the switch motor (or a slide switch in my case) is to use small jumper wires (those with allilgator clips on each end) and temporarily make the connection. When the “meter test” shows the correct alignment I remove one jumper at a time and do the soldering.
There is an easier and accurate method to mount Tortoise machines as shown in the Workshop article “Metal template positions switch motors” in the August 2012 Model Railroader. I modified it by replacing the brass tube with a 1/4-20 carriage bolt, two washers and a wing nut. I’m using it to mount 55 switch machines. A quick,easy and accurate method.
Nice video, but I think, it’s much easier if you solder a wire on the frog, before you lay the tracks.
Gordon Todd, Omaha, NE
My question is about wiring the frog and point rails on custom-built switches. Like many articles I have read, I fill the frog/closure rail area with solder and then file grooves with a saw blade. I have been cutting gaps in both closure rails and just beyond the frog and then power-routing the frog. I am concerned that cutting these gaps increases the possibility of miss-alignment of the rails. Has anyone had problems with shorts between stock rails and closure rails using DCC if you don’t cut gaps and have the points and frog electrically the same? Is a slightly wider gap between the closure and stock rail adequate to prevent a short?
gltodd@cox.net
Thanks for that tidbit. Something that always infuriates me is dead frogs with small wheeled locomotives. Simple fix. Thanks.
Just watched episode 6 of
Ask MRV. Really enjoying every episode. I went back to the Thin Branch series to watch how you wired up the frog to the tortoise switch machine. Can I use the other three contacts to wire an LED light for indicating directions switch is thrown for in a staging yard under my table. and what I have to have two separate lights? Or can I do this with a single LED light that changes color? Thank you! Gary Dean Clarksville Indiana