I have been thinking of switching from HO to O scale for a long time now. I am a fan of the Great Northern and have several questions. I have modeled in Ho since my youth and so I have extensive knowledge in that scale but am relatively uninformed about O so your help would be appreciated.
1 How do I tell the difference between 2 rail and 3 rail engines in ebay auctions? Do some companies make both?
2 What is the minium radius for most O scale locomotives? What radius looks good (usually larger than min) with most locos and 40-50’ rolling stock?
I am assuming the grade rules that govern HO scale would apply to O scale as well?
4 Who makes good O scale switches and track for a reasonable price (similar to Peco in HO)?
I have a fairly sizable collection in HO. 40+ steam and diesels, and about 150 pieces of rolling stock and about 100 or so structures; a lot of them which are craftsman, some of which I have built interiors for. What would be the best way to sell them? Contact the local hobby shop (not in GN area) or sell on ebay by piece or by lot?
These are the questions that I can think of now, if there is any other info that you think would be helpful please feel free to respond.
Thanks for your assistance
Randy Johnson
Dallas Center Iowa
Hi Randy, I’ll try to answer a couple of your questions.
With the engines from Lionel, Williams and K-LIne they are 3 rail. MTH has some that are convertable. For Weaver I only know of 3 rail, not sure about 2 rail. When you get into the really expensive ones, i.e. Sunset, they are usually available either/or. If not sure ask.
Most of today’s engines are listed an O-31 min. but may handle O-27. If you will be running scale equipment and engines O-72 would be best.
The rule of thumb for O has been 1/4" / foot. Again there are variables, train weight, traction, etc.
Many of the serious modlers use Gargraves track and Ross switches. Lionel Fastrack has been getting good reviews from the non-high railers.
Don’t have a good suggestion. Maybe a club in your area, but then they may try to talk you out of O-gauge and we can’t have that.
Usually you can tell by where they have them listed but not always. Some sellers don’t tell you and in fact I think some don’t know the difference. Generally Lionel, K-Line and Williams will be 3 rail. MTH & Weaver can be either.
That varies all over the place. Probably 48" rad in 2 rail and 042 - 054 in 3 rail.
Yes
Atlas, you may not like the price. Quite high compared to HO.
I would go with by the piece on ebay. When I went into O gauge about 10 years ago I sold all my HO, which was quite old at the time, on ebay and was well pleased with the prices that I got.
I was an HO modeler before switching to O. Sometimes I still set up something in HO or even N.
Most of what you see on e-bay under the O gauge listings are 3 rail O. If it’s two rail it will be noted in the listing.
The main reason besides ease of wiring that people use 3rail is the curve radius you can operate on. In 3 rail we go by curve diameter rather than radius, I don’t know why other than thats the way its always been. I like 42" diameter or larger. The new Lionel Fastrack is 36" min. which isnt to bad. The larger the diameter the better everthing looks and operates. It’s pretty amazing that in O you can run good size engines on 42" diameter track, the same as what you would run HO.
Atlas makes more prototypical looking track. Their switches are good. Gargraves is the old standard for 3 rail operations.
More people will chime in with more suggestions. Welcome to O Gauge!
From the wording of your questions, it looks like you are more interested in the 2-rail side. For 2-rail, 36" radius is the minimum for 40 to 50 foot cars. 48" radius should be good for most steam engines and all diesels and look good as well. The large 2-10-4 and articulated steam enignes may need as large as 60" radius. Basically, all the radii are approximately doubled over HO.
For 2-rail track, there is Atlas, Peco and House of Duddy.
For 3-Rail trains, 0-72 (36" radius) is sufficient for everything and 0-54 will be sufficient for most engines except for the largest scale engines (many 3-rail engines such as MTH’s raliking are a bit smaller than 1/48 scale and can run on sharper curves)
For 3-rail track, there is Altas, MTH, Lionel, K-Line, Gargraves & Ross
thanks for all your replies I am indeed interested in 2 rail. I am also looking for equipment and structures that would simulate the Great Northern. Some one made a comment that I did not understand. They said that wiring in 3 rail was easier. In HO one simply runs a wire to each of the rails. Is this different in O scale?
Thanks again
Randy
Select feeder wire size according to the overcurrent protection (circuit breaker) in the transformer, not the current drawn by the train. AWG18 is dafe for only about 7 amperes.
I would like to second the comment on selling piece by piece on ebay. I watch the O prices (not HO) and have noticed that they typically fetch above or very near market (meaning hobby shop retail or mail order retail) prices. Complete sets also fair well on ebay but sometimes they do not. For example I just purchased a K-line construction set ($280 retail, $170 mail order or “sale” price)…for $120 on ebay. Unless the perfect buyer is found, “breaking it up” into smaller piece auctions will result in the highest return. Especially if shipping costs can be kept low.
Welcome to O gauge. Going two rail is more realistic but does limit options somewhat because most of the product is 3 rail. However, if the plan is to purchase recent production realistic (ie expensive) engines then two rail production is available and is more realistic. I would make sure that I was willing to trade off the market flexibility of 3rail for the more realistic 2 rail. I get the feeling that 2 rail “deals” are hard to come by.
If you haven’t made up your mind yet, consider the benefits of S gauge. It’s realistic two rail, yet has the size and heft you can’t get in HO or N. If you go “scale”, it is 1:64, which is a great scale to find models in, including many of the ready-made porcelain Christmas villages. There is also an abundance of used American Flyer on the market that is what they called S Gauge (not S Scale) . You’ll find those locos/cars/accessories very well made but not a true “scale” model of the prototype – they were meant to be a toy, not a scale model.
Myself, I’m in to the American Flyer side and I love it. I’ve purchased a couple Lionel starter sets for my son and they’re OK, but I’d never go that route for my lay-out. It’s just a personal preference. Some guys have to have everything to scale and down to the most minute detail - I don’t. I just love running the steamers!
I know a 2 rail model railroader that is really into his hobby and runs prototypical locos, rolling stock and has people come to his Butler building layout to run twice a month. He has a reworked CTC machine. He was featured in CTT a couple of years ago. He built many of his locos and rolling stock. It is a wonderful layout. He is a real artist. If you are interested in that type of project, you might look up that article in CTT. He runs realistic consists and passenger schedules etc. He inspired me to expand my 3 rail layout. There appears to be no end to 3 rail O scale product availablity and my first train was a Lionel, so the decision was easy for me when I switched from HO to 3 rail O scale. Enjoy!
Welcome to the 2 Rail Asylum!!![:D]
I switched from HO to O about 20 years ago, I wanted more of a challenge.
As far as locomotive go, Atlas, Weaver, and some MTH are two rail from the factory.
Track as was noted above, is available from Atlas (what I use FWIW) House of Duddy and Old Pullman. Minimum radius is more a issue of what equipment you are planning on running. I started out with the old Atlas O, from the late 70s which was (I think) 24 radius. I currently use 36 radius mainline, as a compromise between good running and space savings. Motive power on the SVRR is a mix of old Atlas, new Atlas, Weaver, and one piece of 2 rail MTH. I model Chessie in the 70s.
For my wiring, I use 12 ga. busses, soldered to short pieces of 16 gauge feeders to the rails. Voltage/Amperage drop is very notocable in O scale!
Now, remember, O scale is very much in the minority, several years ago, it was pronounced almost dead. O scale is a craftsman’s scale, nowhere near as much RTR available as in HO, but the satisfaction level, IMO, is much higher.
In O scale, you have to handle the train, much like the prototype. Slack action is audible, and (ask me how I know this) you can very easily, “get a knuckle” just like the full size units.
Come over to the Dark Side, Randy
[:D]
This is my display layout at the Laurel Highlands Model Railroad Club in Somerset PA. It is 7 by 16, two loops, dirt simple.Feel free to ask anymore questions.
As for the HO stuff, I would hang onto it, there may be a son, daughter, or other relative that may want ot get into model railroading.
Others have addressed your first 4 questions pretty well so I won’t say much on those topics other than that wiring in 3-rail O is MUCH easier than in HO! You’ll have no reverse loops to worry about, and the 2 outer rails make signaling a breeze. I wanted but never had prototypically operating block signals and crossing gates in HO, but I do on my O gauge layout.
When I switched from HO to O in spring 2000, I sold everything on eBay and I too was pleased with the prices I got. I sold most items individually. I saw strong demand for built-up craftsman kits as well as for unbuilt ones. Even lower-end items like Athearn cars, and I had a bunch, did well when sold as a lot. (I didn’t think it worthwhile to auction a bunch of $4-5 cars individually.)
You didn’t ask how those of us who have made the switch feel down the road, but I can’t resist a plug. It’s been nearly 6 years now and I’ve never regretting switching to O, not for a second. With the high level of detail that O trains have today, and their running qualities, I was amazed at how fast I abandoned my objection to that 3rd rail - the primary thing that prompted my switch to HO back in 1968.
I made the change 'way back in the mid eighties when Lionel was just about the only game in town. I made the switch primarily because wiring was too complicated in HO and track was just too persnickety in a sometimes damp basement. I dugout my old Lionels and put away my HO stuff. I’m glad I hung onto most of my HO because I now belong to a modular HO club where I can run my HO. That’s my point. As long as you have your HO you can always run it in a club setting while you indulge your first love, O scale, at home. Odd-d
