I can’t seem to perfect using dullcoat. I have the small Testors spray bottle, and it tends to leave a speckled effect. I’ve tried spraying less, spraying more, spraying farther, spraying closer. Still speckles. [xx(] Any ideas?
Either use an airbrush, or get the aerosol cans of dullcoat. It’s impossible to get a smooth application using a trigger sprayer, if that is what you arre trying to use…
OMG!! dont use the spray bottle.
Get the can that is already pressurized and ready to go. Pop the lid and spray past the model several times from all 4 sides.
make sure your air temperature is close to 70-80 degrees and not much more than 50% humidity.
I have used testors dullcote in the aresol can (Spelling?) for decades and nary a problem except in cold weather.
Oh sorry. I said bottle. I meant can. [:I] It is the Testors aerosol can than I’m using. You’re saying spray across “several times”. I bet I’m not getting enough on. I’ve been sweeping across only once or twice.
Jack:
I too, have used Dullcoat for years and like the way it works. For a big project (a larger number of cars going through the Paintshop at one time) I’ll fire up the airbrush, but I use the spray cans a lot!
Depending on the temperature that you are working in, and/or how much product you have left in the can will effect how it sprays. Try warming the can slightly…This will even give a better end result with a new can in the middle of summer! Shake the can well, then place the can in warm water for a few minutes (a large coffee cup works great with the small sized can) shake it again and give your model two to three even coats. The “end” coating should be even (you don’t want any runs) and look glossy.
When the spray can is running out, there may be Dullcoat left in it, but not enough propellant to give a fine spray. Even after warming, it may splatter…then it’s time for a new can!
I have found that I like the effect of using Dull-Cote diluted about 1/3 thinner to 2/3 Dull-Cote sprayed through an airbrush. Spray one coat, let it dry; spray another coat; let it dry. Repeating the process about 4 times gives kind of a faded fini***o the underlying paint. This works really well with dark colors - black, etc. When I say let it dry, with this much thinner, the first side of a model will be dry by the time you have sprayed the two ends and the other side.
I also use the spray can (warming it first). You have to be careful though. An awful lot of finish comes out at one time. Make just one pass on each side of your model; let the Dull-Cote dry; spray it again. Do not make two consecutive passes.
I have found this avoids the spatter pattern. Having an old freight car as a test shooter really helps to see what the patterns looks like. It is a whole lot better to screw up a $1.00 shell than a $25.00 resin model that you have been working on for weeks off and on.
sounds like you have a bad sprayhead. have you tried changing it?
There are two part numbers for the Dulcote…I don’t remember them off hand. One is for a coarse spray(which it sounds like you have) and the other is for a fine spray…I know the fine spray comes in a black and silver can. It tends to work best. I’ve used it before with great results. You need to shake the HELL out of it before and during application.
Do you just use dull cote to “fix” the model after detailing, or is there some higher purpose here?
No higher purpose. Just “sealing” chalk weathering and removing some sheen.
Check out this thread:
http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=48883
Here’s my Dull Cote method. There’s a separate post here somewhere, but I could never find it again (what’s up with the search feature?). It’s great for quickly getting a realistic weathered effect on a fleet of models though. Keep in mind, I’m no expert, and there’s usually a right way, a wrong way, and Grande Man’s way. 
The “victim” and supplies.
The first step with lighter colored models is to “soot” them with black chalk. Cover the whole model. I prefer an angled bru***o work chalk into all the nooks and cranies.
Using a paper towel dampened with “wet water” (small amount of detergent, used in scenery work), clean excess soot using a verticle wiping motion. The idea is to leave streaks where they would accumulate on the real thing such as around structure that’s above flush.
At this point, coat the model with Dull Cote. Since the wheels have been removed, try to keep the spray out of the truck journals. Dull Cote “sets” the black previously added, while at the same time, toning it down somewhat. It also creates a surface that “grabs” lighter colored chalk soon to be added.
Using the same brush, add dirt and rust. Since we model the West, little rust is used. Lighter grays can also be added to the lower areas where ballast dust would accumulate on the prototype.
We use Floquil Rail Brown to paint wheels. Be sure to keep paint of
Here’s a few more Dull Cote and chalk weathering jobs…
I don’t think the recent Dullcoat is as good as the stuff made 10 years ago. I had an old can from 10 years ago and it was really flat. It did not need to be shaken a “zillion” times to get a dull finish. I bought a new one about a month ago and have problems getting a dull finish.
I am trying Floquil flat and am getting better results.
Just a thought.
Harold