Code 83 Atlas snap switches. using the supplied Atlas controllers (the black ones with the blue buttons. Have hooked them up in a row with the supplied metal power connectors. Hooked up the first one to a switch and it works perfect, the way it should. The second controller hooked up to a switch and nothing.
This may be my problem. I have a small Model Power Transformer that some one gave me. 19 Volts AC 0-18 volts DC. I have the DC side hooked up to my Atlas turntable and it works great. I am hooking the power for the switches up to the AC side. Is it a lack of power from the transformer thats not getting thru to the second controller and then on down the line to the other controllers?
I had the same problem with the Bachmann switch controllers which are almost identical to the Atlas one. First controller worked fine, second controller, nothing. Third controller might work if I pushed it just right. I finally chucked them all in the trash can and wired the turnouts through a series of toggle switches, which haven’t failed me yet.
OK, so, it would seem that the problem is either with the controller, or the turnout motor. Since the connection between the controllers should be pretty solid. I’d try the first controller with the second turnout, and vice-versa. Hopefully that will start to narrow things down.
If I am reading this correctly, it sounds like you need a CD, (Capacitive Discharge) power supply. Twin coil switch machines need a quick shot of current. Just a simple power supply is not enough. With a CD supply, I use #22 wire to the twin coil machines. Basic CD circuits.
Walther’s carries commercial CD power supplies. Just hook it up to your power pack. Make sure all connections are secure. The large capacitor stores up a charge to about the value of the power pack voltage.
With a push button switch, you “Dump” all the charge from the capacitor into the switch machine. When you release the button, the capacitor charges back up. Many people who have been using twin coil machines have been using this method for many years.
If he’s going to throw multiple switches at the same time a CDU would be a really good idea. But there’s no reason he can’t throw one at a time with just the power supply.
But, Don, make sure the turnout that isn’t throwig moves freely.
That is the correct way to troubleshoot the situation. Gather information and you will find the problem. Don’t throw random possibilities at it yet. [:)]
Over the years I have talked with people who burned out twin coil machines because they used just a power pack. To do this with just a power pack, all the wiring and connections must be perfect. I have seen this same issue in model railroad magazines before the 'Net ever came to be. Sometimes the contacts in the switch fuse together because of the current being drawn and burn up a coil on the turnout. It is possible to hold down the switch to long because the turnout does not react soon enough. With the CD supply, this will not happen. The CD supply will always flip the turnouts.
I do agree, make sure all the wiring connections are correct and then install a CD power supply. Manufacturers of twin coil turnouts usually do not mention this issue.
I am using the same switches and turnouts. I currently have 5 hooked up to my power supply which is a proto 1000. Hooked up to the ac side. I am using some old solid core phone line that I have a bunch of. I have 3 switches hooked up in series and then a jumper wire to another set of two in series. I hav not experinced any problems (yet) You should really get yourself a volt meter though it really helps with finding electrical problems. My suggestion would be to elimanate all the switches after this first one and start by putting one in at a time you may simply have a bad switch. Take the second one out and put it aside for now and check the rest. You could also make a jumper to by pass the second switch and see it the res start to work. Sounds to me like its a problem right in the switch itself.
Once it is all working as it should a CD unit may be a bonus, but until then it will just complicate troubleshooting. Absolutely go and pick up a multimeter that can measure voltage, amperage and resistance/ohms. Digital or analog, it’s your choice. Good luck!
I don’t use a capacitive discharge power supply, just an old Bachmann trainset power pack and I can throw several turnouts at once with the push of one switch. I don’t hold the switch down for two or three seconds like I’ve seen some do. Doing that burns out the switch machines. All it takes is a momentary contact, and not to contradict popular opinion a capacitive discharge system will work the same way with imperfect wiring that a power pack would, not at all. A bad connection will stop ANY circuit from working. Test the wiring as it’s being put in, solder all wire splices, make sure that all the screw connections are tight.
Test each of your switch machines with the simplest possible circuit. Run a wire from your power supply to the center post of the switch machine, and then take a wire from the other side of your power supply and touch it briefly on each of the outer posts. The machine should throw when you do this. If it doesn’t, it’s a bad one.
Next, add in the controller. If both sides work, fine. Move on to the next controller. Eventually, you can determine which of the parts is good, and which is bad.
I have a bunch of Atlas turnouts, and I’ve always found they work pretty well without a CD circuit. Peco turnouts, on the other hand, really need the CD circuit, so I use it for all of them. One additional feature of these is that they provide a good “kick” at first, but then limit the current for the duration of the pulse. In the case where one of those Atlas controllers sticks in the closed position, which happens more frequently than anyone would like, the CD circuit will likely prevent the switch machine from frying.
These are my switch Atlas Code 83 switch controllers. Never had a problem with any of them. The only time I couldn’t get one to “fire” was at the very outset of the layout construction when I was trying to test them with a small transformer.
I switched to this, which is the same as runs a Zephyr train controller. It sends such a jolt that they never fail.
I use #28 solid telephone wire to terminal blocks connecting with the stranded motor controller wire…over runs of 15 feet or more. No problem.
There is no need for any other circuits or boosters for the Atlas switch controllers.
