Hello to the forum again and trust the new year is going good for everyone. I am busy working on my new layout and in case you may have missed it, see what a mess I’m making of it in the other forum. (Layout construction and gardening)
I do have a question however so thought I’d put it here.
Does anyone have experience with installation of three-way turnouts? Where can I find a supplier and are they cost prohibitive?
Looks like, in the layout I have decided on, I could use one three-way turnout where construction of a reversing “T” is planned. In other words I want one piece that will allow straight ahead direction as well as left and right diverging.
I know I’ve seen this done in various layouts but don’t know if they are custom made or can you purchase from a supplier?
Although i have never had one and i doubt that i ever will i am dead set doubtful of them. I think points are source of trouble irrespective of how expensive they are or how well you installl them. Three way isn’t just twice the trouble it is more than that, or so i think. i could be convinced otherwise but it would take some doing.
In your request for information you failed to mention the size and type of track you are using. The only experence I have is with LGB Brass Track. LGB does make a 3 way switch, Model # 12360 which is code or size 332 rail. On my layout I use Rail Clamps to hold my switches in place. By using the rail clamps the simple loosening of the allen screws permits you to remove the switch for service. Hope this information is a help to you.
Thanks Ron. I plan on using Aristo-craft brass track code 332 rail. So, LGB’s 3-way should work. I’ll check there web site to see what I can learn…thanks again.
As you can see I too use the LGB 3-way turnouts. Photo one shows the yards at Rosebud Falls. I used the 3 way to get more tracks out in the shortest space. In Photo two you ca see (in construction) where the main line coming from the tunnel must split to the trolley line to top of mountain and the siding/connector to Vine Arbor. Just like the other LGB switches they work great. Only problems I’ve had is dirt/sand fowling the track points.
Great shot “ttrigg.” Thanks for sharing it with me. (and the rest of the forum) What you have done in the picture is almost what I want to do in my freight line. I did look up the switch and can get it at St. Aubin for Trains. A little “pricey” for my budget but will just have to save up for it. Due to the small space I have to work with this type of turnout is just what the doctor ordered, so will go with it soon as I can.
Tell me how you operate your turn-outs. Are they remote control or thrown by electricial switches in a control box somewhere?
Well done Tom. this sort of thing doesn’t appeal to me but to each his own. I also use Hillman clamps on all my points, to facilitate ease of maintainence. I also trigger all my points with an MTS signal and or LGB 17100 track contacts, in my automation activity.
That said make sure that all of your rolling stock and motive power can negotiate R1 (600mm/2ft radius) curves without problems. Having one of the 3-ways in a yard ladder saves room and can also generate a lot of frustration.
Pricey, YES; but well worth the price, if you need to save the space. R1: but most cars (twin axle trucks) can handle this.
LGB provides a wiring diagram and a “diode” to make the jumper. Properly installed, when you activate turnout 2, turnout 1 will automatically activate for proper alignment for turnout 2.
I use the LGB “switch/controller” boxes, but I’m sure it could also be done with “DPST center off” momentary contact switch. If you want to go manual, just take the boxes off the turnouts and add your preferred ground throw.
NOTE: I use the word “diode”, it’s a little silver thing with a wire out of each end. It is required to make the S1 move when you activate S2. I do not know what the proper name is, and really do not care. All I need to know is that it works!
LGB have a booklet on this very subject and it will explain various circuits and clever ways of doing things but they must be quite a problem as far as maintenance is concerned as they are pretty complicated. I think you may also have frog problems to do with the physical length of the points and the length of the loco using them.
I just installed one of these LGB units on my indoor layout over the holidays. Gezzzuzz Christmas Cakes was it expensive! I couldnt find one at any of my usual discount suppliers and had to bite the proverbial bullet and get the last one in L.A. at fullretail, OH THE PAIN!!! This dang thing is more expensive than the double slip switch and more expensive than any of my locomotives! …My Scots ancestors howl with raging disapproval![}:)][;)][:D]
But I needed to use one to make my south yard work, kinda similar to ttriggs pics. I’m not planning to use the electric motors and will eventually sell them off and replace them with brass switch stands. Now my yard works the way it was planned. See if you can locate one thru the discount suppliers. If you can’t and can only get one thru the LGB stores, even at full price, its worth it, but Oh! it hurts! Just walk in and say…
“Hello, I’d like to buy that LGB 3 way switch and may I also have caining on my backside please?”
I didnt have time to mail order it, I had cash and if I didnt use it, someone else would find it and spend it[;)] So I needed to act fast and called the local places that carry LGB products, two of these are known discount shops but all the places I called had sold out except for the one place I ended up going to.
If you can get one for $104, do it! thats a good price.
Like I said Pricey!!!! Don’t remember exactly what I paid but had to go through my LHS (2 years ago) and he now has them on the shelf for $149. Definitely not for the casual user. To be used ONLY when absolutely necessary.
If you haven’t bought that 3 way switch that you wanted I Just thought I would let you know that I just saw an LGB 3-way switch on page 24 of eBay. It has 1 day 17 hours and 42 minutes to go and the high bid is $51.00 and shipping is $10.50.
