I am looking for some OLD information. I remember years ago reading about a tielaying jig. After tearing down my layout for a move, I am left with a large amount of individual nickel silver rail and wi***o reuse this on handlaid ties (or other suggestions). I have done some research and find in the June1970 MR, an article on ‘Bench and Roadbed Construction Methods’, by H. David Fyffe. In this article he refers to ‘jigs’ by Orv Dunn that were described in the May & June 1967 MRs. He also refers to the article ‘Simple Jigs for Speedy Tielaying’ by Leighton Keeling, in the July 1966 MR. I believe that this is the article that I remember. I have much of my MR materials still boxed from my move. But I have unpacked most of my MR past issues but have only found back to 1968. ( I started when I was 5 ha-ha) So … does anyone have access to these old issues, OR does anyone know where I might obtain this information, OR does anyone have a description of a tielaying jig that I could make to aid in what I believe will be a rather time intensive activity (even with a jig)?
http://www.handlaidtrack.com/
These people sell jigs.
Hope this helps.
The tie laying jig that I remember involved taking a board maybe 2 or 3 feet long and glueing on wood strips spaced so that ties would fit tightly between them, with an edge so that the ties would line up neatly. The jig strips would be slightly lower than the ties themselves.
Visually it looked a little like a piano keyboard.
You fill in the spaces with the wood ties then take a strip of masting tape along the whole length so that they can be picked up all at once (looking like flex track withotu the rail), and then reversed, laid down tape side down where you want to lay track, then spike in the rail. I guess the tape would stay below which could interfere with some methods of laying ballast. Or maybe not.
Does this explanation make sense? I have to say I myself never laid track using this method.
Dave Nelson
You can make your own tie laying jig – take a piece of wood approximately one foot or so long, and about three inches wide. Find a table saw blade with a kerf the width of your crossties. Cut grooves in the board at the desired crosstie spacing distance and about 1/16" deep. Put the crossties in the grooves, fasten them together with a strip of masking tape, put down your glue on the roadbed, lift the section of crossties out of the jig by gently lifting up on the masking tape, and put them in place. After the glue has set, strip the masking tape off.
The tie laying jigs I have used were built like Dave Nelson’s description.
Dave H.
I had a tie laying jig as described above and it works well. One secret is to cut your strips of masking tape narrow enough to allow easy laying on curves.
NOW Brlliance!
I misplaced my carefully constructed jig and as I was getting all worked up to build another one a brilliant solution came to me. Use 2 lengths of flex track. Spike them down good w/ enough room between them so the wooden ties will fit and just slip the wooden ties in between the plastic ones on the flex track, add tape and go!
I had a tie laying jig as described above and it works well. One secret is to cut your strips of masking tape narrow enough to allow easy laying on curves.
NOW Brlliance!
I misplaced my carefully constructed jig and as I was getting all worked up to build another one a brilliant solution came to me. Use 2 lengths of flex track. Spike them down good w/ enough room between them so the wooden ties will fit and just slip the wooden ties in between the plastic ones on the flex track, add tape and go!
Thank you all for the feedback. it sounds as though all methods will work. I did review the jig that is commercially available as well. It looks good but before I buy, I will try the three different suggestions. One thing I think I remember from the article is that once the ties are laid down they should be ‘lightly’ sanded to provide a smooth surface from tie to tie. For those of you with experience, is this step recommended or not necessary?
Again, I thank you for you feedback!!!
I strongly recommend sanding the ties after laying them. The tolerances on tie height, along with less-than perfect glue application or smoothness of roadbed all conspire to give you vertical kinks after spiking if you don’t sand.
Personally, I lay the ballast immediately after laying the ties, before the glue has dried (I have used diluted white glue in the past, but will try matte medium in the future). While glue is drying, I prepaint my rail with a small brush. Next evening, I sand just until all the ties have sanding marks (lightened color on them). I use a sanding boat - 9 inches long (assumes 11 inch long sheet of sanding paper, adjust to fit your paper) 1x2 piece of wood which I have rounded the ends on. I cut strips of sandpaper (fine or very fine grit) and attach to the boat with push pins. Finish by vacuuming the sanding dust and loose ballast, re-staining/painting tie tops as desired, then lay some rail.
I use a very similar tie-laying jig to the others. My only note is that when transferring ties to the layout, usually a couple will be disturbed when I remove the tape - I remove tape with glue wet so I can ballast immediately. I remove the tape by holding the ties in place with a metal ruler or similar. Any disturbed ties are simply repositioned by eye, giving it that less than perfect look I am seeking.