The layout I’m currently building will be the first to use flex track almost exclusively (except for turnouts). Previously I’ve only used it occasionally as a patch piece and otherwise used sectional track. Do you all have any beginner’s advice? I’m planning on using Peco code 55.
I have not used flex track, but I have learned that is you are planning to make the track straight you should use a metal yard stick to make the track as straight as possible. Hope the advice helps.
I’m also using Peco Code 55, from what I have done so far. the track takes a bit more strength to bend and when unbent doesn’t always return to a straight line.
I really like the booklets on track from MR, but you can get lots of info here also. Some aspects:
-
let us know what you will be laying it onto; e.g., cork?
-
recommend the Xuron rail nippers
-
after nipping, clean up the end with a small file, especially the inside and top
-
you have to remove some ties, from each piece of butting track, to allow for the rail joiners
-
save the ties and file off the “tie plate” bumps to slip back them in and glue them later, before painting / ballasting
-
decide where you will have soldered rail joints as this affects joints on curves. I soldered almost all joints except at turnouts (for maintenance / replacement). I left a few spots for expansion but for me the turnout unsoldered joints took care of that.
-
I can’t comment on Peco specifically as I used Atlas code 83 w/Walther Shinohara turnouts. With this combo, the thicker Atlas ties required shimming the W-S turnouts to get matching height. Not a huge deal.
-
I tended to use a starting point at a turnout, then lay track outward from there. I laid my cork first and then had the center line for the track. I let the moveable side be on the inside so it was too long and would need cutting. I cut my rails so the gaps were not exactly opposite (a slight offset) most times. I glued (using latex caulk) most of the 36" piece down and then set the beginning next piece in line straight with that. Used pins and books as weights as the latex set. Then soldered the joints/joiners with that straight joint (no kink). When cool, then curve and glue down the next part; i.e., the joint and most of the next 36" section.
-
plan for your electrical gaps (special joiners) if you will have isolated sections for electrically separate sections needed. Note that for DCC, gaps using reverser circuit boards are often advised to create a slight 1/8"
An excellent resource, but only if you look at at least two (2) of them by different videographer/modellers, is youtube. Go to that site, place “laying flex track” in the search box, and prepare to go get a beer or a cup o’ joe. You’ll get lots to keep you occupied for the next three hours or five.
If you are using undertable switch machines, it pays to locate the turnout, and bore the hole for the actuating rod first. Nail the turnout into place, and then lay the flex track inbetween the turnouts.
Cork roadbed does not hold track nails well. I made my own roadbed out of soft pine, mostly 'cause pine does hold track nails. Foam does not hold fasteners at all, you have to secure the track with latex caulking compound when foam is your roadbed.
Avoid track joints on curves, they usually kink. Solder a couple of pieces of flextrack together and you can bend them into a curve without a kink. Draw the track centerline on the road bed with a big compass, or a trammel or a straight edge. Don’t solder all the track joints, shrinkage and expansion of your benchwork needs a few unsoldered track joints to allow some give in the track. Take care not to bend the flex track into too tight curves.
Layout transition curves. From the straight run of track, the entrance to the curve should be eased, turning at something less than the final curve radius. Get a copy of “Track Planning for Realistic Operation” by John Armstrong, it explains how to ease into a curve.
Take care that the flanges of the rail go INSIDE the rail joiners.
I am about to do the exact same thing. I will be anxious here about your experiences.
Plan your track laying so that final connections are made on a straight section of track work. Making precise connections on a curve is difficult.
Lots of good advice here. With HO scale you just about have to join curved tracks, and soldering the connections before forming the curve and laying the track down is the way to go. Seems like with N scale it would be possible to keep most of the connections off tight curves and this would make things easier.
One thing not mentioned- I’ve found that having a few ribbonrail (or tracksetta) gauges comes in very handy, especially when using track that does not naturally spring back to straight like Atlas. You can slide a straight ribbonrail gauge down between the rails to get the track perfectly straight. And a curved gauge with your minimum radius can be used to help keep the radius smooth on tight curves.
Good trackwork is very important so take your time and aim to get your joints and curves perfect. If you see a kink or poor connection then continue to work with the track to get it right before moving on to the next section. Like anything else, once you get the hang of it then the work will go faster.