I just purchased a New Rail Models A-Frame cabin kit off eBay. This is the first time I have ever attempted a laser-cut wood kit. Being a complete novice, I would appreciate any tips and tricks you can provide. -Thanks.
LION looked at your website. You do not NEED any tips from a LION.
roar
I’ve found that the corners need extra foot area. A wood/plastic or wood/wood cement works best an styrene strips to add some additional surface area for bonding.
After priming, you have to take some sand paper to the wood, because (and I may be doing something wrong) I tend to find that fibers like to “stand up” a bit. 120 or finer sand paper should take these fibers down, and then I use a brushed primer over any spots that came clean in the sanding.
I’ve found that with wood kits it’s better to detail the wall totally first and then partner it with the other walls, rather than build walls add detail. I’m working on a barn based off of a Wisconsin/Swedish style and I find that wood tends to need more support for the long roof than styrene does. Since it’s only a half model I can use the back board to help with this, but for your cabin I don’t know that you will need it.
Depending on how good you are with the glue, you can paint everything up first and then seam the walls together, or I tend to paint everything except a fingers width to the corners and paint those after the walls are cemented together. Don’t be afraid to get creative with the corner seams for extra adhesion. I’ve used styrene, extra wood square cut posts, mostly, but on some that have to travel, I’ve used a varity of overlaping connections.
SHARP KNIFE! and ask around for the best adhesive. I use the Testor wood and metal glue (green tube), but there may be better out there.
GP,
Some laser kits have better quality construction than others. I’ve put together American Model Builders (AMB), Branchline, and Blair Line. Of the three, AMB was the best - in particular, the windows and quality of the mylar glazing. Branchline was close behind.
As far as tips:
- At least prime everything wooden before assembly if you plan on painting it. A wood stain or wash actually gives some nice results and gives a cabin more of a rustic look.
- I like to use Elmer’s wood glue vs. using cyanoacrylate adhesive (CA). If you do use CA, use the slow acting kind - particularly on the walls - so that it gives you plenty of time to position them. I also like to glue up all the walls in one sitting so that the adhesive dries hard in that orientation.
- A tri-square or square really comes in handy for making sure that the walls are perpendicular.
- For windows, just peel the backing off the back and press them in place. The adhesive is generally very good and holds well. I also like to have a few windows fully or partially open for more realism. A pie cooling on the window sill is a nice touch of home, too.
Tom
I have just finnished building several laser kits including Saleenas Tavern by BAR Mills and for my first laser kits I have to say it was a fun build. I used Aleens Tacky glue from Michaels crafts and found that it gave me time to make ajustments but still set up quick. If you are going to use a stain on your cabin then you will definately want to stain before assembly. I don’t think that the stain would penetrate any glue that would be showing on the surface. Be careful if you use water based paints as some of the parts have a tendency to warp. I used Floquil primer and paints that I brushed on and still had some parts warp but when I added extra bracing they straightened out.
Definately have a small square and plenty of sharp knife blades.
The main thing is take your time and enjoy yourself.
I am just finnishing up a caboose from American Model Builders and it is amazing how nice these things go together.
Jim
Log onto the Bar Mills web site and take a look at their videos…they are packed with really good info for you to get started with. I build with Aileens tacky glue almost exclusively. I use Walthers Goo for attaching castings to any other surface. I also primer all the wood with the cheap grey rattle can primer before I add any bracing. For finish painting colors, I like to use the Delta Ceramcoat colors that are $1 at Michaels…huge selection of colors, and the delta brand seems to really be a better consistency out of the bottle then the other brands. That should get you started!
Lots of bracing
Paint first.
Weather last.