I have built both a Bower L-1 mikado and an M-1a with almost no issues. I suspect the M-1a needs one of the wheels quartered a tad as there is some very slight binding, but my L-1 runs flawlessly.
I have an I-1 decapod that I got as a teenager in the later 80’s and built it then. I could never get it running correctly as it always had a bind. At one point I had it sitting on my dresser in my bedroom as a display piece since I couldn’t get it right and someone knocked it off. Recently after pulling my trains back out I tried to get it running again and bought a new brass bearing plate and new side rods. I took the wheels to a local store to have them quartered and the guy there said they were fine. After putting it back together there was still a significant bind with the motor removed. I then elongated the holes in the side rods to eliminate the bind and it ran perfectly for about 6 months. Then it stopped one day with one of the wheels out of sync with the next - all of the holes I had elongated were elongated bigger and the rod bolts going into the wheels had been worn into an insane amount to the point that they are completely unuseable. I have ordered new side rods, 3 new axles / wheels, and all new rod bolts. I also have since gotten a NWSL quartering jig and only 1 of the wheels was out of quarter and it wasn’t by much. I did get one to replace that one since I never had the thing right. The new wheels are in quarter so I’m hoping that will help.
Anyways, has anyone had success in getting these things running well? I absolutely love the locomotive, and love operating with it, but I also need to to hold together. Any thoughts?
Unfortunately the “knocked it off the dresser” may have caused other problems. You may have a bent frame. Strip all the parts off the frame, find a flat area around where the wheel slots are, and check this with a straightedge. Also, check the remaining two wheelsets that you didn’t replace to make sure they’re in square, if they’re flanged, just use the NMRA check gauge at several points around the wheelset. You may need calipers for blind drivers. Next, examine each wheel (with a good magnifier and even the new ones) and check around the crankpin hole (what you’re calling the rod bolts) and remove any burrs or rough parts of the casting. Also look at the wheel casting to see if anything sticks out that might catch on the connecting rods. Take the connecting rod pieces and examine the holes for the same thing. I believe these are stamped metal, so they may have rough edges, usually on the side that will face the wheel.
When assembling, first insert the wheelsets into the frame, install the cover plate, and roll the assembly back and forth on the work bench or a piece of test track, the track will be needed especially if it has blind drivers (don’t apply pressure to it) and watch for any of the wheelsets to bind. Correct these problems and make sure it rolls easily and smoothly before continuing. Install the connecting rods on both sides and repeat the test, correcting problems and retesting until the whole thing rolls smoothly. Assemble the cylinders and crosshead with the main rod, testing each side, then repeat with the valve gear.
Any binding needs to be removed/corrected before installing the motor, new assembly or rebuild, and any brand of locomotive kit.
The rods, valve gear, and anything else that moves can have a bind in it. The trick is to figure out which of the many bits and pieces is doing the binding. The standard technique is to add this stuff one piece at a time. Roll the mechanism back and forth and check for binding. Once the bind appears, you can be sure that the last piece installed is doing the binding. Double check, take that piece off and the bind ought to go away.
Once the culprit is identified, the fixes are usually quartering, ovalizing holes, or bending stuff flat.
Well, the last of my parts showed up the other day. I checked the frame for flatness and it was good. I then checked all of the wheels for quarter and between the new ones and the ones I was keeping they were good. I then re-assembled the brass bearings and cover plate. The wheels spun freely. So I put on the side rods, leaving off the main piston rod and reversing gear and everything was smooth, first try! That never happened on this loco before. So I put on the final rods and voila! No binding. So I put it all back together and everything runs perfect, just like my L-1. So I’m thinking there was something wrong with one of those back two wheels from the factory as it always would bind up. It might’ve been out of quarter, but I’m not sure. They are pretty badly worn anyways, so I’ll just save them for a later date. I’m really happy about it now as I have alot of sentimental value in that locomotive. My dad and I built it when I was 12. So between that running now, my J-1 coming, and hopefully sometime soon I’ll be getting my T-1 running I’m pretty happy right now. My son will be excited to see the I-1 running again, too. He likes that one and my M-1 the most out of all the steam I have.
Sometimes riveting the valve gear together makes the joint a little too tight. Stack the 2 side rods together and make sure each hole is exactly match each other. As an aside when I reassemble one of my steamers regardless of make or model I put a dab of plastic compatible grease on all the valve gear and side rods. It lasts longer than a drop of oil and does not get all over if you put too much.
Pete