Yesterday I picked up a TIU/TMCC 6’ Connector Cable, MTH 50-1007. This is a version from 2002 without the “black box.” 50-1007 was been replaced in 2003 by 50-1018 which has the “black box.”
I understand there are instructions online somewhere for making a 50-1007 work as well as a 50-1018. Can someone lead me to the instructions?
BTW, the cables did come with screws too short to do any good at holding the cable to the TMCC and TIU. I took one out and went to ACE Hardware and matched it with a machine bolt [can not remember the size right now]. Got 4 of them. 2" ones I think. Anyway, they screw right in and hold the cable so it does not get “jared a loose”.
Thanks to spankybird: I had rummaged around the MTH-Railking PS-2 site before posting this morning and had no luck, so I will now try your topic suggestion, “TMCC Signal Strength Improvement Modification .”
Thanks to ChiefEagles: I thought those fasteners looked short! I will do the same a.s.a.p.
I know that signal strength is helped by light bulbs. My end of the layout is “Realtrax”; my buddy uses Atlas; and we split the tracks in the yard connecting out layouts. The signal strength reading usually hangs at “10” on the Railking track and varies greatly on the Atlas–even though we have put a light bulb in line. I am told that the trick is the bulbs in the Railking lockons and turnouts.
The bulbs should help, but the LHS ended up soldering their Atlas track together on their display layou to keep the signal consistant. It would be solid one day and poor the next. I don’t know if this is standard procedure for Atlas track or not, but the connections with the fishplates, at least in this specific case, apparently were lacking.
As far as what is in the Black Box, I have no clue. I do know that I did the resistor mod, per the MTH Website on my original cable, and it works as well as my newer cable with the black box. The newer cable came with standoffs, so that I could screw it to the TIU, the older one did not.
I believe that Ernie Emerick, one of the Gurus at TAS, is responsible for the resistor fix for the cable (the one on the MTH website), as well as one or two improvements over that fix.
I was wondering if those fishplates would work without soldering. Even if you do have to solder the joints, I don’t think it’s any harder to do than my Atlas HO code 83.