I have an MTH Priemer line Berkshire with an AC/DC board with Railsounds from Digital Dynamics. The locomotive works great. I no longer have to worry about dead batteries and the locomotive does far more than I every thought it wood. The only issue is the rear coil couplier(The only couplier) opens speraticaly. I have tried resisters using the recommended ratings but they keep burning up, I sent the R2LC board back to be tested it was fine, I tried a different couplier, no luck. The couplier is currently disconnected I tried a twisted but not real tight.
I have installed the same boards in 2 other locomotives, A Lionel 783 Hudson and a MTH railking hudson with no problems at all with there coupliers or any thing else. The differences are that in the 783 and railking hudson there are no marker lights, no constant voltage boards or even a backup light. In the berk the marker lights are plugged into the railsounds board instead of using drop resistors this was so new for D.D. at the time he included a special instruction sheet in addition to the regular directions any input would great. thanks.
Scott R. Conforto
Hi Scott, I too have installed several conversions from DD . Working on one right now. Just finished one in a Railking Cab Forward…what a project… I have not had any problem that Ed (DD) has not been able to address. I have not had any problems with electrocouplers. Have you checked the Troubleshooting on page 21 at the bottom ? The part about trimming leads and separating motor leads from lamp and coupler wires ? On page 16 -17 try using # 3-4 the front coupler connections and see if results are different. Have you tried it without a resistor ?
One other thing, is the coupler “firing” by itself or could it be a coupler that is coming loose from a mechanical perspective instead of being “fired” by the DC/DLX unit. If this does’nt help I will try and think of anything else and check here tomorrow night… Good Luck…Tim
Hi, Thanks for the reply I see you enjoy doing these conversions to. Even with the couplier issue it was still worth it. The sounds are way better then PS1and you can’t beat the addition of TMCC. This was my first time adding TMCC to a locomotive that didn’t originally come with it. I know it’s firing by itself I can hear it. I have also tried a different couplier and had the same problem. Ed tested the R2LC board at his own shop. I think I tried hooking up the couplier to the Front connection and I have tried not using the resister. In all 3 of my locomotives I have extended the leads by twisting the 2 wire ends together, soldering them, and of course covering them up with electrical shrink wrap that I did heat. I did separate the motor leads from the couplier leads. Good Luck with your current project.
Scott, I had a problem with the coupler on a K-line A5 opening unexpectedly. The fix that was brought out a couple years back on the OGR forum was to insert a capacitor, 1 micro-farad, between the leads to the coupler. I used Radio Shack #272-996, 1 mf, non-polarized, 50V max… It solved the problem.
Roger, I see this would be like the capacitors used on Pullmor motors to reduce electrical noise. Only in this case it can cause false triggering because the electro-coupliers operate on capaciatance discharge. Now I’m just double checking this connection would be in parallel with the couplier?
Roger, This is Scott R. Conforto I install that cap. you suggested in my MTH Berk and it solved my couplier problem. Thank for the solution to a very fustruating problem.
Scott R. Conforto
Good news is always…Good news…Tim
Scott - Glad it solved the problem.