I am making progress on my mountain/hill made from foam. As I lay the foam to make the slope, I have foam steps. I am not sure which is the best solution for smoothing the grade. Do I take the time to trim all of the steps, or do I fill the steps with Scuptamold? I am using 1/2" foam so the step gaps are fairly shallow.
I’ve found using a simple rasp available at any hardware stores works easily and well.
Hi Richard; If you don’t want the Rasp mess you can use a Hot Wire foam cutter or long Exacto blade. That is what I do. If you use the rasp, keep the vac on or you will have foam dust floating all over the room. Doug
In addition to the above suggestion use this link to see how David Popp tapers foam to get a pond bank. It may help.
http://mrv.trains.com/how-to/scenery/2014/12/olympia-logging-series-part-36---build-a-log-pond
Bob
I used to fill a lot more using Sculptamold, so yours is a very apt question. I think your comment about the 1/2" steps needing less fill relatively points toward doing just that. It’s all about an effort/mess vs ease/expense trade-off.
I’ve tended more towards shaping the foam in recent construction and it does save Sculptamold. I tend to use the 25 or 50 lb sizes, which are considerably cheaper per pound than the small bags, so don’t tend to worry about it that much. I just like to see what I’m trying to create in foam, ratehr than reluying mostly on the Sculptamold.
I think it depends on what you are going to do for the final surface before you apply the ground foam. Are you going to plaster it, cover it with plaster cloth, apply some plaster cast rocks, or just paint it and apply the ground foam?
Richard, although mostly work w/ supported cardboard or screening, when I do use stacked foam, I will shape cut or hotwire each layer as it is built. The initial “footprint” is drawn and like a topographical map, roughly figure the shape and incline for the cuts to the layer. lots of dry fitting and cutting until I’m satisfied w/ the shape and steepness/ grade. the next layer is roughly cut, laid and the underside scribed, flip over and cut, you already know the angle as you cut from the preceeding one, keep placing and shaping for each layer. Final cuts w/ hotwire or serrated knife, a dulled DW saw works well also, doesn’t matter how ragged the cut, it gets covered anyway. This leaves very little to fill those steps for the final contour. I like to use hydrocal, but Sculpamold, Durabond 90, ground goop or any other ‘flavor’ of you filling will do.
If your area is already set and glued saw/ knife out to shape and glue in pieces for large fills. Then you can coat w/ plaster or Sculpamold. I have even “attacked” the foam w/ a sawzall to really do a big job rather quickly, but a heck of a mess!
The real advantage of a foam mountain/ hillside is the ease to plant hundreds of trees: poke a hole and plant.
If you haven’t glued your foam in place, rough cut it with a knife or box cutter to the shape you want it before you do. I have a Surform Shaver, which I find to be the most useful tool to blend stacked sheets together. I do have other Surform tools, as they each have their places. It has a smaller face, is short and able to work in tighter places. Leaves a slightly rough surface which can be painted or have some other material put over it, such as your Sculptamold or homemake ground goop. Yes, you do want to have your Shop-Vac going when you use them. Also, if you have some anti static spray, it helps keep the fine bits from sticking to you and other surfaces.
You can use a hot wire or hot knife to cut it also, but be sure to have excellent ventilation. The smoke stinks and can’t be good for your lungs. They leave a very nice, smooth surface.
Good luck,
Richard
A serrated edge bread knife is also good for shaping foam – but is messy so you need to have a vacuum cleaner handy.