I am interested to know how many 'Gleamers" there are?
This is for ALL modeler’s benefit.
More time to run trains.
More time to model structures.
More time to weather stuff.
More time to spend at the hobby store.
More time to clear the shelves of alternate track cleaning supplies…
semaphore,
How about adding an option to the poll for those of us who just found out about GLEAMing and haven’t tried it yet? That way we can see how many modelers know about it as well as how many use it. Sounds like a really great idea, though. No more track cleaning… Somebody pinch me to make sure I’m not dreaming! [:D][:D]
http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=53843
Here it is, again.[:)]
Works great! I plan on doing this to all track when I have time.
Not to gleam… I like my tracks just as they are thank you.
TL
Hi all
Argh!!! run away nasty abrasive track cleaners.
I have allways used methylated spirit and a lint free cloth
For difficult gunge a nylon kitchen pot cleaner and methylated spirit.
You will never permenantly eradicate the need for track cleaning,
and should never use anything that is abrasive to clean the track with
regards John
John
In my case not having cleaned my track since July 2003 (thats over 2 1/2 years now) is almost like not having to ever clean the track again!
Compaired to having had to clean it every time I had an operating session which was every other week.
Oh! and I used Blue Magic metal polish only!
BOB H - Clarion, PA
semafore with latest update: {THINK YOUR SCALE’S WHEEL-TO-RAIL CONTACT AREA}
*Gleaming process definitely works, as observed over 3 months.*Nickel-Silver rails gleam the best; steel rails next, Classic brass next.*The sanding step real does help with evening the rail surface prior to burnishing.*The ‘black stuff’ on the rails is carbon flux, caused by the electrical current flowing to the motors, lights, and the like on the locomotives and rolling stock through the pick-up wheels. Plastic wheels may tack up more carbon flux than metal wheels, but the plastic itself is NOT the culprit.
*Carbon flux build-up is significantly retarded, because there is much more positive contact to the wheels; Why? There are no gaps for the current to arc across!
- PRE-GLEAMED rails would Not be beneficial; this process would be best performed on laid rails. The sanding step evens out all irregularities at this point. Also, all handling of track would inevitably cause imperfections on the rails anyway. AND, This would add cost to manufacturing, too! Although, it would be nice to BUY gleamed rails, or at least include them in the train sets/kits for the beginner’s benefit.
- The more power pick-up wheels there are per unit, the less arcing per pick-up wheel.* The rate of OXIDATION is relative to the rail’s metal composition AND to your region’s RELATIVE HUMIDITY! I live in SOUTH FLORIDA! RH=too much all the time!
The museum’s [ www.sfrm.org] RH is high, since it currently occupies a historical depot warehouse that has original metal roll-up doors, no insulation, and aging , barely effective A/C units!
The fact that the N module’s NS rails gleamed 3 months ago STILL SHINE like I just did them gives me hope that a new standard of rail maintenance will free us up to operate instead of clean rails as normal activity!
It is NOT my motive to upset track cleaning product’s mfrs/retailers; I just want us ALL to enjoy running ELECTRIC trains that are dependent on rail power; THAT’S ALL!!!AND R
I haven’t tried it. Just a question-Wouldn’t it be hard to keep the polish from getting on the sides of the rail and ruining any weathering?
to loathar:
A: you may not need polish. If your region’s relative humidity is low to medium, I think you’re OK. All polish have SOME form or abrasive, even if it’s liquid. This abrasive helps ‘sand down’ some irregularities, so the trains run better. But the sanding step prior to burnishing removes ALL irregularities, so the rail is very level, ensuring positive contact, and reducing the arcing. All I do is occasionally wipe the rails with a used dry train-themed cotton t-shirt rag. However, if it’s CLASSIC brass, polish should be used lightly using cmrproduct’s HO cork method. Then, lightly burnish again! [Brass is so soft, the cork will abrase a little.] Wiping with the cotton may snag here or there.BE careful of the track nails, joints, and switch points!
I try to keep the Humidity level in the summer in my basement down to 70%. I am happy with that level as the layout was built during the summer and this level of humidity!
I do not have the said problems that semaphore is speaking about so I am under the impression that their humidity level is much greater than 70% all of the time.
Until I put a humidity gauge in the basement to actually see what the level was I was really believing I had a much lower level than what the gauge stated.
I also now have a temp gauge so I can see at any time just what factors are affecting the layout.
If the humidity gets above the 70% the wood begins expanding a lot and my swinging gate will get real tight so much so that I have a hard time opening it. As far as the layout and trackwork goes I am not seeing any problems there but I was gone for a week (in the July) and had shut off the dehumidifier. The layout and room was really beginning to be affected. The humidity level was over 90% and I feel that if I had not gotten the dehumidifier back running I might have had major problems!
But with the track cleaning thing I still did not have any problems even though the humidity level was over the 70% level.
I do not know why the metal polish has worked so well for me and others claim that it does not work for them.
Maybe they need to check the humidity and temp levels and see if they are getting too high!
I will just keep on doing what I have been doing for the past 2 years and that is just go down and turn on the layout a ½ hour before the next OPs session and begin running trains! No cleaning of track or engine wheels or running a car drag in any train, NOTHING.
The sound engines won’t miss a note and the switchers will crawl across any of my more than 150+ Atlas dead frog turnouts tie by tie.
BOB H – Clarion, PA
If you buy an abrasive block every month, in twelve months you will spend at least $60.00 on the blocks, and many hours every week or two of alternate exercise for your palms.If you GLEAM the rails, you will buy a little sandpaper, one Stainless Steel washer, one bottle of Blue Magic polish ( if needed ), and use one cotton T-shirt rag, ONE TIME!
Also, your palms will be freed up to do more pleasurable exercise, like operate trains!!!
P.S. If you Do gleam, please show us all a photo of your pride-n-glory! (Railroad, that is! )
if sand helps the real railroads, then maybe that’s why I don’t have trouble on the 5% grade hidden at the back of the layout, since the track is just a little dirty, gleam it, and I think I’ll be sliding.
As on your other thread, it looks like you hit on a great idea worth trying!
I"m going to definetly give this a shot after laying track down on my new layout.
I prefer Colgate with flouride because I think it tastes better.
If you USE up an abrasive block each month, pretty soon you’lle be replacing rails!!![:0]!!
hasn’t this topic bean beaten to death that much that it is non existent?